A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Colin Roos Jeroense Alex Ennis Damian Graaf Gerry Campbell Gome Paul Badenoch Vertical Pirate Jorge Packer Tarn Gillman
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Le Galetas
66 in Sector
- 1.1. Adieu Zidane 3 in Sector
- 1.2. Pédalos 2 in Crag
- 1.3. Grotte du Galetas 15 in Cliff
- 1.4. Pont du Galetas 5 in Area
- 1.5. Secteur Supérieur 11 in Sector
- 1.6. Secteur inférieur 9 in Sector
- 1.7. Crête des Vernis 9 in Sector
- 1.8. Dalle du Galetas 12 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Le Galetas 66 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 43.802364, 6.253327
questões de acesso
The gorges are the home of a few protected bird species. Some areas may be closed during nesting season.
ética
Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.
1.1. Adieu Zidane 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 43.800685, 6.255875
descrição
Named after the French soccer team lost a World Cup final. Bolter Bruno Clément is known for is contempt toward all things soccer...
acesso
All routes are accessed from the lookout (11km from La Palud, going to the Pont de Galetas). Take care on the slab with the rap station. To rap down, take a 100m static line to do it in one go or do 3 successive rappels.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Hissage Nocturne
A little harder than Adieu Zidane. Set: Bruno Clément, 2003 | 6a+ | 130m, 9 | |||
2 |
★★ Adieu Zidane
Easy but steep. The traverse pitch is gold. Set: Bruno Clément, 2002 | 6a | 100m, 5 | |||
3 |
Fièvre Résurectionnelle
A boulder move on Pitch 2. Set: Bruno Clément, 2013 | 5c | 100m, 4 |
1.2. Pédalos 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
questões de acesso
Don't climb in summer (pedalos).
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | La Grande Picoterie | 7a A0 | 100m, 4 | |||
2 | Touché Coullet | 7b+ | 100m, 3 |
1.3. Grotte du Galetas 15 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 43.800780, 6.252639
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sans nom | 6a | ||||
2 | Sans nom 2 | 6a | ||||
3 | Sans nom 3 | 6c | 2 | |||
4 | ★★★ L'Antonin de jardin | 8a | ||||
5 | Sans nom 4 | 7c | ||||
6 |
Spider cochon
Onsighted by Charlotte Durif (8/7/2008). Set: Antonin Rhodes | 8b+ | 2 | |||
7 | Joyeux Noël | 7b+ | ||||
8 | Pue le Fion | 8b+ | ||||
9 |
Les 3 P / Pan, Piano, Perfo / Les Trois P / PPP
According to Charlotte Durif, the route can be split in 3 sections. The lower third that consists of half of "Pue le fion" 8b+ with two or three small key movements a little morpho; the middle third with three very technical key moves and a very tough section; and a third section with three serious key movements of "Pull Over" 8c+. Third female 9a by Charlotte Durif (18 août 2011). FA: Adam Ondra, 2010 | 9a | 50m | |||
10 | Pull Over | 8c+ | ||||
11 | Pue l'ovaire | 9a | ||||
12 | La belle histoire de fesse | |||||
13 | A chit tallon | 7b+ | ||||
14 | Sans nom 5 | 7b+ | ||||
15 | Sans nom 6 | 7b |
1.4. Pont du Galetas 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Psicobloc
Lat / Long: 43.801104, 6.251415
sumário
Deep water solo area that's perfect to cool down in summer
descrição
Deep Water solo area. You can hire one at the boat rental service on the beach of the Lac Sainte-Croix.
questões de acesso
Very busy in Summer, watch for people around you before jumping off. Be aware that the level of water changes all the time.
acesso
By boat only
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Crag le Sept
Big Crag on right side in a corner around 150 m Has shade in the afternoon. Watch out for loose rocks. FFA: Roos Jeroense, 6 Aug 2019 | 5c | ||||||
2 |
★★ l'oblique
On left side around 175 m in from bridge. almost across " le sept" just a bit further. FA: Roos Jeroense, 6 Aug 2019 | 4 | ||||||
3 |
Le Juste
Pretty crag nice to a small beach in the right corner. Around 200 m in from bridge. FA: Roos Jeroense, 6 Aug 2019 | 6a | ||||||
4 |
★★ Le coin
Corner next to Le Juste. around 200 m in from bridge on right ride. This one has sun all day. Traverse a bit when you get up. makes it more safe to jump. There is a little beach close by in the corner. FA: Roos Jeroense, 6 Aug 2019 | 4 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
5 |
★★ Tuffa Traversée
follow the tuffa's | 6a | 20m |
1.5. Secteur Supérieur 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ F.A.B | 5c | 25m, 11 | |||
2 | ★★ Ris (63) | 5a+ | 14m, 6 | |||
3 | ★ io' | 4b+ | 14m, 4 | |||
4 | ★★★ Noir, de preference. | 5b | 24m, 9 | |||
5 | ★★★ O-C2 | 6a+ | 35m, 12 | |||
6 | ★★★ Annee d'eclipse | 6a | 35m, 13 | |||
7 | ★★★ Le Plein de jus | 6a | 35m, 10 | |||
8 | ★★★ Passerelle minute | 6a | 35m, 10 | |||
9 | ★★★ L'embarras du choix (directe) | 6b+ | 32m, 9 | |||
10 | ★★★ L'embarras du choix (variante) | 6a | 35m, 8 | |||
11 | ★★ Le retour de Granola | 5b | 30m, 10 |
1.6. Secteur inférieur 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Docteur Grappe | 4a | ||||
2 | Antibio-Pool | 4b | ||||
3 | Tatiana | 4a | ||||
4 | Pope et Moune | 3b | ||||
5 | Crastaingite Aigue | 3b | ||||
6 | Le Grand Lenthier | 3b | ||||
7 | Maitre Taffit | 3a | ||||
8 | Cactus Boy | 3b | ||||
9 | Les Yeux d'Olga | 3a |
1.7. Crête des Vernis 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Escalada esportiva
descrição
Rive Gauche
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
El passejada del papets
FA: Jean-Pierre Hermitte & Robert Milesi, 2017 | 6b+ | 280m, 12 | |||
2 |
La voie est libre ?
Set: Patrice Goerger & Lionel Minassian, 2013 | 7c | 300m, 13 | |||
3 | Big up | 8a | 220m, 7 | |||
4 |
Cereal killer
FA: Norbert Salvagiot, 2015 | 7a | 220m, 7 | |||
5 | Asterix et périls | 7a | 220m, 8 | |||
6 |
★★ Éperon des venellois
FA: Patrice Goerger & Lionel Minassian, 2014 | 6b | 280m, 9 | |||
7 |
★★ Une pincée de ketchup
FA: Pascal Faudou & Norbert Salvagiot, 2016 | 6c | 280m, 10 | |||
8 |
Instant cruxial
FA: Norbert Salvagiot, 2017 | 7a+ | 300m, 11 | |||
9 |
★ Liberées Délivrées
FA: Vertical Pirate, Laurence Raith & Bernard Pégourié, 24 May 2020 | 6b | 100m, 5 |
1.8. Dalle du Galetas 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: 43.804453, 6.253338
sumário
Huge slab wall with lower and intermediate level climbs
acesso
Access from the gorges road that leads to Moustiers. Park at the view point with the graffiti and take the path the leads down to the right
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ FAB | 5c | 30m, 11 | |||||
2 | ★★ Ris | 5b | 15m | |||||
3 | ★ Io | 4c | 15m | |||||
4 | ★★ Noir de préférence | 5b | 30m | |||||
5 | ★★ O-C2 | 6a+ | 35m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 | ★★★ Année d'éclipse | 6a | 35m, 13 | |||||
7 | ★★★ Plein de jus | 6a | 30m, 12 | |||||
8 |
★★★ Passerelle minute
Warning Fixed Gear: Maillon is warn. | 6a | 30m | |||||
9 | L'embarras du choix | 6b+ | 30m | |||||
10 | ★ L'embarras du choix 2 | 6a | 30m | |||||
11 | ★★ Le retour de granola | 5b | 25m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 | ★★ No name | 5c | 15m |