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Le Galetas Guide

  • Contexto da graduação: FR
  • Fotos: 5
  • Ascensões: 83

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Roos Jeroense Alex Ennis Damian Graaf Gerry Campbell Gome Paul Badenoch Vertical Pirate

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Le Galetas 66 routes in Sector

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Sazonalidade

Mostly Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 43.802364, 6.253327

questões de acesso

The gorges are the home of a few protected bird species. Some areas may be closed during nesting season.

herdado de Les Gorges du Verdon

ética

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

herdado de France

1.1. Adieu Zidane 3 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 43.800685, 6.255875

descrição

Named after the French soccer team lost a World Cup final. Bolter Bruno Clément is known for is contempt toward all things soccer...

acesso

All routes are accessed from the lookout (11km from La Palud, going to the Pont de Galetas). Take care on the slab with the rap station. To rap down, take a 100m static line to do it in one go or do 3 successive rappels.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Hissage Nocturne

A little harder than Adieu Zidane.

Set: Bruno Clément, 2003

6a+ Sport 130m, 9
2 Adieu Zidane

Easy but steep. The traverse pitch is gold.

Set: Bruno Clément, 2002

6a Sport 100m, 5
3 Fièvre Résurectionnelle

A boulder move on Pitch 2.

Set: Bruno Clément, 2013

5c Sport 100m, 4

1.2. Pédalos 2 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Escalada esportiva

questões de acesso

Don't climb in summer (pedalos).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 La Grande Picoterie 7a A0 Sport 100m, 4
2 Touché Coullet 7b+ Sport 100m, 3

1.3. Grotte du Galetas 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 43.800780, 6.252639

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sans nom 6a Sport
2 Sans nom 2 6a Sport
3 Sans nom 3 6c Sport 2
4 L'Antonin de jardin 8a Sport
5 Sans nom 4 7c Sport
6 Spider cochon

Onsighted by Charlotte Durif (8/7/2008).

Set: Antonin Rhodes

8b+ Sport 2
7 Joyeux Noël 7b+ Sport
8 Pue le Fion 8b+ Sport
9 Les 3 P / Pan, Piano, Perfo / Les Trois P / PPP

According to Charlotte Durif, the route can be split in 3 sections. The lower third that consists of half of "Pue le fion" 8b+ with two or three small key movements a little morpho; the middle third with three very technical key moves and a very tough section; and a third section with three serious key movements of "Pull Over" 8c+.

Third female 9a by Charlotte Durif (18 août 2011).

FA: Adam Ondra, 2010

9a Sport 50m
10 Pull Over 8c+ Sport
11 Pue l'ovaire 9a Sport
12 La belle histoire de fesse

#roof

SportProjeto
13 A chit tallon 7b+ Sport
14 Sans nom 5 7b+ Sport
15 Sans nom 6 7b Sport

1.4. Pont du Galetas 5 routes in Area

Summary:
All Psicobloc

Lat / Long: 43.801104, 6.251415

sumário

Deep water solo area that's perfect to cool down in summer

descrição

Deep Water solo area. You can hire one at the boat rental service on the beach of the Lac Sainte-Croix.

questões de acesso

Very busy in Summer, watch for people around you before jumping off. Be aware that the level of water changes all the time.

acesso

By boat only

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Crag le Sept

Big Crag on right side in a corner around 150 m Has shade in the afternoon. Watch out for loose rocks.

FFA: Roos Jeroense, 6 Aug 2019

5c Deep water solo
2 l'oblique

On left side around 175 m in from bridge. almost across " le sept" just a bit further.

FA: Roos Jeroense, 6 Aug 2019

4 Deep water solo
3 Le Juste

Pretty crag nice to a small beach in the right corner. Around 200 m in from bridge.

FA: Roos Jeroense, 6 Aug 2019

6a Deep water solo
4 Le coin

Corner next to Le Juste. around 200 m in from bridge on right ride. This one has sun all day. Traverse a bit when you get up. makes it more safe to jump. There is a little beach close by in the corner.

FA: Roos Jeroense, 6 Aug 2019

4 Deep water solo
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 Tuffa Traversée

follow the tuffa's

6a Deep water solo 20m

1.5. Secteur Supérieur 11 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Escalada esportiva
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 F.A.B 5c Sport 25m, 11
2 Ris (63) 5a+ Sport 14m, 6
3 io' 4b+ Sport 14m, 4
4 Noir, de preference. 5b Sport 24m, 9
5 O-C2 6a+ Sport 35m, 12
6 Annee d'eclipse 6a Sport 35m, 13
7 Le Plein de jus 6a Sport 35m, 10
8 Passerelle minute 6a Sport 35m, 10
9 L'embarras du choix (directe) 6b+ Sport 32m, 9
10 L'embarras du choix (variante) 6a Sport 35m, 8
11 Le retour de Granola 5b Sport 30m, 10

1.6. Secteur inférieur 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Escalada esportiva
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Docteur Grappe 4a Sport
2 Antibio-Pool 4b Sport
3 Tatiana 4a Sport
4 Pope et Moune 3b Sport
5 Crastaingite Aigue 3b Sport
6 Le Grand Lenthier 3b Sport
7 Maitre Taffit 3a Sport
8 Cactus Boy 3b Sport
9 Les Yeux d'Olga 3a Sport

1.7. Crête des Vernis 9 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Escalada esportiva

descrição

Rive Gauche

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 El passejada del papets

FA: Jean-Pierre Hermitte & Robert Milesi, 2017

6b+ Sport 280m, 12
2 La voie est libre ?

Set: Patrice Goerger & Lionel Minassian, 2013

7c Sport 300m, 13
3 Big up 8a Sport 220m, 7
4 Cereal killer

FA: Norbert Salvagiot, 2015

7a Sport 220m, 7
5 Asterix et périls 7a Sport 220m, 8
6 Éperon des venellois

FA: Patrice Goerger & Lionel Minassian, 2014

6b Sport 280m, 9
7 Une pincée de ketchup

FA: Pascal Faudou & Norbert Salvagiot, 2016

6c Sport 280m, 10
8 Instant cruxial

FA: Norbert Salvagiot, 2017

7a+ Sport 300m, 11
9 Liberées Délivrées

https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/france/le-verdon/vernis-galetas-et-lac/liberees-delivrees/

FA: Vertical Pirate, Laurence Raith & Bernard Pégourié, 24 May 2020

6b Trad 100m, 5

1.8. Dalle du Galetas 12 routes in Area

Summary:
All Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 43.804453, 6.253338

sumário

Huge slab wall with lower and intermediate level climbs

acesso

Access from the gorges road that leads to Moustiers. Park at the view point with the graffiti and take the path the leads down to the right

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 FAB 5c Sport 30m, 11
2 Ris 5b Sport 15m
3 Io 4c Sport 15m
4 Noir de préférence 5b Sport 30m
5 O-C2 6a+ Sport 35m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Année d'éclipse 6a Sport 35m, 13
7 Plein de jus 6a Sport 30m, 12
8 Passerelle minute

Warning Fixed Gear: Maillon is warn.

6a Sport 30m
9 L'embarras du choix 6b+ Sport 30m
10 L'embarras du choix 2 6a Sport 30m
11 Le retour de granola 5b Sport 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 No name 5c Sport 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
3a Les Yeux d'Olga Sport 1.6. Secteur inférieur
Maitre Taffit Sport 1.6. Secteur inférieur
3b Cactus Boy Sport 1.6. Secteur inférieur
Crastaingite Aigue Sport 1.6. Secteur inférieur
Le Grand Lenthier Sport 1.6. Secteur inférieur
Pope et Moune Sport 1.6. Secteur inférieur
4a Docteur Grappe Sport 1.6. Secteur inférieur
Tatiana Sport 1.6. Secteur inférieur
4 Le coin Deep water solo 1.4. Pont du Galetas
l'oblique Deep water solo 1.4. Pont du Galetas
4b Antibio-Pool Sport 1.6. Secteur inférieur
4b+ io' Sport 14m, 4 1.5. Secteur Supérieur
4c Io Sport 15m 1.8. Dalle du Galetas
5a+ Ris (63) Sport 14m, 6 1.5. Secteur Supérieur
5b Le retour de Granola Sport 30m, 10 1.5. Secteur Supérieur
Noir, de preference. Sport 24m, 9 1.5. Secteur Supérieur
Le retour de granola Sport 25m 1.8. Dalle du Galetas
Noir de préférence Sport 30m 1.8. Dalle du Galetas
Ris Sport 15m 1.8. Dalle du Galetas
5c Fièvre Résurectionnelle Sport 100m, 4 1.1. Adieu Zidane
Crag le Sept Deep water solo 1.4. Pont du Galetas
F.A.B Sport 25m, 11 1.5. Secteur Supérieur
FAB Sport 30m, 11 1.8. Dalle du Galetas
No name Sport 15m 1.8. Dalle du Galetas
6a Adieu Zidane Sport 100m, 5 1.1. Adieu Zidane
Sans nom Sport 1.3. Grotte du Galetas
Sans nom 2 Sport 1.3. Grotte du Galetas
Le Juste Deep water solo 1.4. Pont du Galetas
Tuffa Traversée Deep water solo 20m 1.4. Pont du Galetas
Annee d'eclipse Sport 35m, 13 1.5. Secteur Supérieur
L'embarras du choix (variante) Sport 35m, 8 1.5. Secteur Supérieur
Le Plein de jus Sport 35m, 10 1.5. Secteur Supérieur
Passerelle minute Sport 35m, 10 1.5. Secteur Supérieur
Année d'éclipse Sport 35m, 13 1.8. Dalle du Galetas
L'embarras du choix 2 Sport 30m 1.8. Dalle du Galetas
Passerelle minute Sport 30m 1.8. Dalle du Galetas
Plein de jus Sport 30m, 12 1.8. Dalle du Galetas
6a+ Hissage Nocturne Sport 130m, 9 1.1. Adieu Zidane
O-C2 Sport 35m, 12 1.5. Secteur Supérieur
O-C2 Sport 35m 1.8. Dalle du Galetas
6b Liberées Délivrées Trad 100m, 5 1.7. Crête des Vernis
Éperon des venellois Sport 280m, 9 1.7. Crête des Vernis
6b+ L'embarras du choix (directe) Sport 32m, 9 1.5. Secteur Supérieur
El passejada del papets Sport 280m, 12 1.7. Crête des Vernis
L'embarras du choix Sport 30m 1.8. Dalle du Galetas
6c Sans nom 3 Sport 2 1.3. Grotte du Galetas
Une pincée de ketchup Sport 280m, 10 1.7. Crête des Vernis
7a Asterix et périls Sport 220m, 8 1.7. Crête des Vernis
Cereal killer Sport 220m, 7 1.7. Crête des Vernis
7a A0 La Grande Picoterie Sport 100m, 4 1.2. Pédalos
7a+ Instant cruxial Sport 300m, 11 1.7. Crête des Vernis
7b Sans nom 6 Sport 1.3. Grotte du Galetas
7b+ Touché Coullet Sport 100m, 3 1.2. Pédalos
A chit tallon Sport 1.3. Grotte du Galetas
Joyeux Noël Sport 1.3. Grotte du Galetas
Sans nom 5 Sport 1.3. Grotte du Galetas
7c Sans nom 4 Sport 1.3. Grotte du Galetas
La voie est libre ? Sport 300m, 13 1.7. Crête des Vernis
8a L'Antonin de jardin Sport 1.3. Grotte du Galetas
Big up Sport 220m, 7 1.7. Crête des Vernis
8b+ Pue le Fion Sport 1.3. Grotte du Galetas
Spider cochon Sport 2 1.3. Grotte du Galetas
8c+ Pull Over Sport 1.3. Grotte du Galetas
9a Les 3 P Sport 50m 1.3. Grotte du Galetas
Pue l'ovaire Sport 1.3. Grotte du Galetas
? La belle histoire de fesse SportProjeto 1.3. Grotte du Galetas
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