Used to be hot spot for hard climbing in the 60s-70s.
Le Saussois is less visited today but used to be at the very top of free climbing difficulty from the 60s to the mid-80s. It is often described as the birthplace of French sport climbing. Some superb routes here to enjoy in a quite and beautiful area and a piece of climbing history too.
The rock is not perfect everywhere (can be polished, sometimes breakable), but a in few spots, the grey rock is on par with the limestone found in the South of France. You'll find slabs, vertical walls, overhangs and roofs. A lots of holds are small pockets, just enough for one or two fingers (even on 6a!). The climbing is often technical, dynamic and fun.
Take 12 quickdraws and a 70m rope.
On your rest days, enjoy the food, wine and typical scenery.
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/
Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.
Before the 1960s, Parisian mountaineers came here to train. Unknowingly, they started a small revolution by free climbing between the aid bolts (a style which they called "le libre saussois" or "the free saussois style"). Pythons are replaced by bolts, a practice climbers from that period will take to the many other French cliffs.
During the 1970s, the difficulty increases rapidly, with more hard (for the time) routes being free climbed. First French 7a (l'Echelle a poissons), first 7b (l'Ange), 7c+ (Chimpanzodrome), 8a...
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theCrag é um guia gratuito de escalada em rocha do mundo todo, editado voluntariamente por escaladores e simpatizantes. Você pode registrar todas suas vias, se conectar e conversar com outros escaladores, e muito mais…» Descubra mais, » aprenda mais ou » nos questione algoAuthor(s): David Atchison-Jones
Data: 2021
ISBN: 9781873665176
A selective guidebook describing a huge range of climbing and bouldering in central France, ranging from Fontainebleau in the north to Millau in the south. It covers over 250 different crags, and over 11,000 routes from F3a to F8a.
Caribou167 em La fissure impossible 7a - IMG_2152.JPG
Caribou167 em ★★★ Chimpanzodrome 7c+ - IMG_2147.JPG
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