Ajuda

Saussois

  • Contexto da graduação: FR
  • Fotos: 3
  • Ascensões: 196

Sazonalidade

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Sumário

Used to be hot spot for hard climbing in the 60s-70s.

Descrição

Le Saussois is less visited today but used to be at the very top of free climbing difficulty from the 60s to the mid-80s. It is often described as the birthplace of French sport climbing. Some superb routes here to enjoy in a quite and beautiful area and a piece of climbing history too.

The rock is not perfect everywhere (can be polished, sometimes breakable), but a in few spots, the grey rock is on par with the limestone found in the South of France. You'll find slabs, vertical walls, overhangs and roofs. A lots of holds are small pockets, just enough for one or two fingers (even on 6a!). The climbing is often technical, dynamic and fun.

Take 12 quickdraws and a 70m rope.

On your rest days, enjoy the food, wine and typical scenery.

Questões de acesso herdado de France

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

Acesso

2h south of Paris in the Merry-sur-Yonne village (Bourgogne). From the car park, walk 2-5min. You can either abseil or walk down.

Ética herdado de France

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

História

Gráfico cronológico das vias

Before the 1960s, Parisian mountaineers came here to train. Unknowingly, they started a small revolution by free climbing between the aid bolts (a style which they called "le libre saussois" or "the free saussois style"). Pythons are replaced by bolts, a practice climbers from that period will take to the many other French cliffs.

During the 1970s, the difficulty increases rapidly, with more hard (for the time) routes being free climbed. First French 7a (l'Echelle a poissons), first 7b (l'Ange), 7c+ (Chimpanzodrome), 8a...

Etiquetas

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Author(s): David Atchison-Jones

Data: 2021

ISBN: 9781873665176

A selective guidebook describing a huge range of climbing and bouldering in central France, ranging from Fontainebleau in the north to Millau in the south. It covers over 250 different crags, and over 11,000 routes from F3a to F8a.

Acomodações próximas more Ocultar

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