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Mittlerer Wehlturm Guide

  • Contexto da graduação: SX
  • Ascensões: 3

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Mittlerer Wehlturm 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Sazonalidade

All Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 50.962887, 14.072962

questões de acesso

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

herdado de Sächsische Schweiz

ética

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
herdado de Sächsische Schweiz
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg II Trad
2 Glatte Kante VIIa Trad
3 Südwestweg VIIb Mixed trad 1
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 Kein Kommentar VI Trad
5 Westweg III Trad
6 Nordwestkante V Trad
7 Arbeit ist die wärmste Jacke

Rechts der "Nordwestkante" Riss zu Absatz. Rechts Überfall und Wand (3R), "Nordwestkante Variante" kreuzen, und Wand (R) zG.

FA: Felix Friedrich und Frieder Räuber, 2 Sep 2022

IXa Mixed trad 25m, 4
8 Nordwestkante Variante V Trad
9 Ringfinger VIIIb Mixed trad 3
10 Rampensau IXa Mixed trad 8
11 Talweg VIIa Trad
12 Hinter der Kulisse IXa Mixed trad 4
13 Nordostriss VI Trad
14 Dienstreise VIIc Mixed trad 1
15 Vis-à-vis VIIc Mixed trad 3
16 Schartenweg VI Trad
17 Südkante VI Mixed trad 1
18 Südwestwand VI Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
II Alter Weg Trad
III Westweg Trad
V Nordwestkante Trad
Nordwestkante Variante Trad
VI Kein Kommentar Trad
Nordostriss Trad
Schartenweg Trad
Südkante Mixed trad 1
Südwestwand Trad
VIIa Glatte Kante Trad
Talweg Trad
VIIb Südwestweg Mixed trad 1
VIIc Dienstreise Mixed trad 1
Vis-à-vis Mixed trad 3
VIIIb Ringfinger Mixed trad 3
IXa Arbeit ist die wärmste Jacke Mixed trad 25m, 4
Hinter der Kulisse Mixed trad 4
Rampensau Mixed trad 8
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