Vias como trad em Yane Iwa

The shallow corner right of Tranquiliser has a nasty start. Pull out left from the corner to a big crumbly flake, then climb direct on big holds to a steeper section. Pull out right to a vague ledge, then go up and left to a bolt belay (as for Doushikai Route). The direct finish from the steeper section is 5.10c. Ab/lower off (60m rope required to get down in one).

First climbed in 1981 by Tomikazu Shinohara and Naoyuku Watanabe who are key figures in Ogawayama's climbing history. They established a route that is not only the most popular multi-pitch in Ogawayama, but also one of the most beloved in all of Japan. This is the perfect route for new multi-pitch climbers and one that every rock climber should try.

• Pitch 1, 5.7, 10m
• Pitch 2, 5.8, 30m
• Pitch 3, 5.6, 25m
• Pitch 4, 5.8, 25m
• Pitch 5, 5.6, 10m
• Pitch 6, 5.7, 10m
• Pitch 7, 5.8, 20m

Classic Finger Crack. The lines runs straight down the center of the main wall.

The name of the climb means "Spider silk".

Route Name means "I dropped a dead tree!"

Starts on the obvious slab/corner on the left as you get to Yane Sanpou.

1. First pitch (5.6) goes up the slab next to the corner past a tree to a decent tree & ledge. (Original guidebook shows this as 2 pitches but its easy to do in 1.

2. Next pitch (5.7) continues up and left along a line of cracks and flakes to another tree and small ledge belay (2 bolts).

3. 3rd pitch (5.8) goes straight up the squeeze chimney above for the crux of the route - good bolt below the chimney, not protectable inside it. Wear long pants... Continue up to belay on big ledge with tree belay.

4. Pitch 4 (5.5) - walk back up broken ground to a crack up and right. Climb this to the top and belay over the back

1. Face

2. Face-Slab

3. OW

4. Face-III

*NP

Another good long stroll, this one being more even than Nanryou Kanagawa Route and featuring a cracking third pitch. The traverse on Pitch 2 can also be intimidating. Take a rack.

1. 5.6 As for Nanryou Kanagawa Route - climb the corner - mainly on the slab - on slightly dodgy rock to belay at a tree on a good ledge. If possible, belay out of the corner (a party of two can use the shiny new bolts on top of the pinnacle on the right).

2. 5.7 From behind the belay, follow a traverse line right to a big flake. Undercling left, then climb the continuation crack and slab to a bolt belay on a good ledge.

3. 5.8 Step left from the belay and climb the slab to a prominent crack. Up this to another good ledge. The tricky lower section of this pitch can be avoided on the right. But you'll be knocking a star off the route

4. 5.6 Continue more easily up the slab to the spacious terrace.

5. 5.5 Wander back and right and pick a line up the easy slabs to the top.

Use 2set Cam and 3 quickdraw