Vias em Kenya

About 9 m left of the Black Panther cracks there is an obvious small roof at 24 m with a groove beneath it. Enter groove from the left and climb to roof. Step right under roof and move to cracks. Climb steeply up cracks to ledge. Most parties belay here. Straight up cracks and chimney to top.

Start on the nose of the grey buttress at the left end of Tot where twin cracks lead up from an undercut start to a ledge at two-thirds height. Climb the nose for 9 m then move left to cracks. Up these and over bulge. Continue up cracks to overhang which is taken direct to ledges. Move left up the crack to its narrowing, then step left onto wall. Up and back right then finish up shallow chimney.

30 m right of Black Panther.

38 m right of Black Panther.

60 m right of Black Panther.

The weathered lichen face around the corner from the buttress has a line of weakness up its centre. (Chipped "PS").

1. 27 m (Depending on choice of belay). Large steps reminiscent of the Great Pyramid lead into a crackline,

2. 21 m The crack steepens but the holds are all there. An easy slab leads to a tree belay.

The corner between the lichen face and the main wall has a series of good moves at 30ft. Near the top, the left wall is bettwr than the gully.

Start below a prominent overhang right of Anubis.

1. 28 m Climb directly up to the overhang on good jams. Slightly right and surmount the overhang. 6 m up to belay on large flake/ledge.

2. 15 m Delicately up the ramp to the left of the belay to vegetation. An excellent climb with the crux situated 21 m vertically above the start.

(name spelled as in the guidebook)

Start about 5 m right of Collosus. The face here is broken into chunky pedestals.

1. 30 m A series of straightforward mantleshelves for about 12 m to an apparently easy pillar with a perched block on top. This impediment provides a splendidly infuriating problem. Above, easier climbing to a belay shared with Collosus.

2. 18 m Descend a little and traverse right to a satisfying move on two large projecting holds. Continue right until an overhang gives a calisthenic finish. A nice climb with energetic bits.

Near the centre of the cliff and facing the road is a shallow gully which runs from top to bottom of the rock. It is the most obvious major feature in this part of the cliff. The climb starts on sound rock but at about 15 m a difficult section leads to very bad rock which continues. The quality of rock is such that the pitons can be easily driven into it, ie. not into cracks.

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

Start beneath the obvious prow in the centre of the crag. Move to a point 11 m right of the actual nose. Peg in place.

1. 16 m Up for a few feet then traverse left and up the nose to a small sloping niche.

2. 37 m Descend left on steep slabs and reverse mantleshelf to lower level (no aid), move left to crack. Up this (2 aid points), to block. Move left to groove and up this to good holds. Follow these to cracks. Move left to arete and up to good ledges and belays.

3. 37 m Up broken rocks and good corner crack to top.

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

At the right end of the crag, about 76 m right of the point where the cliff changes direction and runs parallel with the road. Start at the top left corner of a grassy bay flanked on the left by a nearby buttress.

1. 15 m Climb short corner, and rising traverse left to a large ledge.

2. 25 m Up to the base of long corner.

3. 37 m The corner gives clean chunky climbing.

Towards the centre of North Wall is a prominent steep crack which starts half the way up, and continues up the face. The climb follows this crack the bottom of which is entered by a hand traverse in from the right (one aid move required). Start below the crack in a small bay behind a shrubby tree.

1. 40 m Up over down-sloping hanging blocks then move right over easy blocks and ledges to a ramp leading into a small cave. Thread belay.

2. 24 m (Crux). Traverse left on the lower of two possible lines over sloping ledges on small holds, (peg in place for hand-hold), to bottom of crack. Move up over bulge and again up over second bulge, (crux), to a chockstone chimney. Move right onto nose, up and right again into corner and up to platform. Belay.

3. 15 m Scramble easily to finish. Sustained and fairly serious second pitch with mediocre protection.

90 metres from the left edge of Arches Ead is a grassy rib. Start 30 m to the right of the broken buttress in an obvious short corner (chipped MR).

1. 30 m Climb 5 m up crack and traverse left along a fairly clean line to a dark flake at 9 m. Climb round and up flake on its left to a huge flake, go behind flake and belay.

2. 31 m Traverse left through tunnel or over blocks to corner then easily up corner to a large grassy ledge. Move right and up to below crack.

3. 31 m Climb to start of crack, go up over bulge using small but good holds, (the wedge in place is used for protection only, no guaranteed security). Continue more easily to the top up the corner/crack. A very pleasant climb, with some loose blocks, but good protection.

Start same as for Ramparts (Chipped ”S").

1. Climb easily up corner, belay at the top of the buttress.

2. Move up on mantleshelf immediately. Traverse right over ribs to a steep broken gully. Up this carefully avoiding loose chockstones at the top. Traverse 3 m right to belay at base of gully.

3. Continue up right hand gully easily to top overhangs. Surmount these on the left. Technically not too difficult though care must be exercised moving over loose blocks, good protection.

This route climbs the prominent chimney avoided by Sirimon. Start directly below the chimney.

1. 19 m Up a small corner to the right of a crack until one can step left to a ledge. From the left hand end climb straight up to ledges at the top of a pinnacle.

2. 15 m From the furthest point right step up to a ledge and pull over an overhang to the left. Junction with Sirimon. Slightly right and then past a chockstone to the foot of the chimney.

3. 12 m Climb the chimney until a step left can be made, (crux), to ledges. Peg belay.

4. 6 m The steep lichen wall above.

To the right of Sirimon are a number of vertical grooves and then a black slab half way up the cliff. Start at a 6 m corner immediately below the left edge of the black slab (chipped "C").

1. 18 m Corner, slab and corner lead to a stance near a projecting rock.

2. 37 m Traverse to the right onto the black slab and mantleshelf. Climb the corner above for about 8 m, until (about 5 m below the overhang) a ledge on the left allows a somewhat impossible traverse left. The ledge leads to the base of a groove. Follow this through an overhang to the top.

On the far right end of Worth Wall, about 15 m left of the way down, is a prominent chimney crack terminating in a gully. Climb over bulge at bottom and chimney up middle section.

Climb the nose 2.5 m right, then move left into the chimney.

Near the left end of the crag is a vertical section of cliff. Just left of this is an obvious chimney high up on the wall. Start below the chimney.

1. 110 ft. Up vegetated wall, into V crack. Ascend crack and exit left..Up 10ft. then make a rising traverse right. Delicate in places. Belay at back of chimney.

2. 70 ft. Straight up chimney or more interesting traverse right and onto ridge. Up to finish.

This buttress appears from a distance as a large white patch about two-thirds of the way up the cliff, somewhat to the left of the centre. Start at the base of the buttress; to the right of a vegetated corner, a somewhat vegetated line leads up to the right.

1. 23 m Follow the vegetated line to a platform with an improbable thread belay above.

2. 22 m From the platform climb upwards and to the left into a gully. Climb this until it is possible to move left (loose) onto the top of the buttress. From here an unpleasant earthy scramble leads to the top of the crag.

To the right of the centre of the crag is a small buttress bounded on either side by prominent cracks. The right hand-crack is bad, but the left appears to be blocked by an orange chockstone at two-thirds. Start 9 m left of the true bottom of the line at a broken crackline which leads into the main wall, and crack at a ledge one third of the way up.

1. 27 m Climb the broken crack to vegetated blocks. Step right around blocks and up to a ledge. Up the corner to a bulging crack which is avoided by a thin traverse right, then up onto slabs and back into the corner. Belay.

2. 24 m (Crux). Up crack in corner to chockstone. Turn it on the right wall and continue easily up the chimney to a smooth notch. Belay.

3. 9 m Easily to summit. The series of moves around the chockstone are stimulating.

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

About 46 m from the left-hand end of the cliff a crack splits the face from bottom to top, leaning back in a corner at first, and then overhanging slightly.

1. 18 m Up the wall and crack to a chockstone belay.

2. 22 m The overhanging crack/corner gives technical straddling in a fine position.

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

Scramble up a pillar of boulders leading to a band of overhangs. Bridge up and step left onto a slab above a roof. Move 2 m left, then go up and right to belay directly below the steep corner (15 m). Climb corner (crux at 6 m), pass a roof and belay on the left, 3 m below the rotten band (25 m). Climb right of the corner to the rotten band. Move left to gain easy but rotten rock and trend left to the top (20 m); belay 20 m higher.

From the boulder pillar of Shadow climb directly up (V+) to the base a very obvious off-width crack immediately right of pitch 2 of Shadow (15m). The wide slabby groove just right of the off-width crack is climbed; move right halfway up this, then left to corner where several fine moves left through overhangs lead to a poor stance (25m). The rotten upper section can either be climbed direct or by moving left to finish on Shadow (20m); belay 20m higher.

At the extreme left end of Springs Wall there is a steep section seamed by cracks, bounded on its left side by a broken gully. In the centre of the cliff a crack bends from left to right, cut at two-thirds height by a prominent roof. Start in the centre of the crag at the foot of a prominent groove.

1. 22 m Climb the groove, traverse left along a grassy ledge to gain a short crack which leads to a tree on the left. Climb the short groove behind the tree and gain the hanging crack above. Climb this and pull out on the left and traverse to the foot of a sharp cut groove. Climb this to good ledge above.

2. 48 m Traverse right to foot of crack cutting wall and leading to obvious roof. Climb crack direct to roof then step right to a sloping ledge and up to easier ground. Ascend chimney and move right to ledge.

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

About 9 m right of 'The Springer' is a prominent corner curving up rightwards. Start below this.

1. 19 m Climb corner moving right at top and along ledge to belay.

2. 15 m Move up leftwards into obvious cracks which are climbed direct to ledge.

3. 15 m Follow prominent rampline rightwards.

4. 9 m Now traverse left across steep black wall to ledge.

5. 25 m Move straight up behind ledge into little groove which is climbed direct to top.

2019 update: Can be climbed in three pitches by combing pitches 2 and 3 and pitches 4 and 5. Best climbed with two ropes to manage rope drag, in particular for last pitch.

In the inward curving section of the face is a series of ramplines stacked above each other. The upper rampline which steps steeply left to right is just below a pale wall in which can be seen a lava sworl decorated by resident birds in a manner suggesting the name. Start below a tree at 3 m in a groove. Aim generally for the lower end of the upper rampline.

1. 80ft. Up groove to tree. Break right onto slab and layback crack. Over blocks to ledge and belay.

2. 70ft. (Crux). Move slightly onto ledge on left. Up block to a prominent crack, which is awkward to enter, and up to a capped block. Step onto cap and take next block left on friction. This gives onto the upper rampline. Belay on fine ledge below Madonna.

3. 100ft. Continue up ramp on slabs to small cave. As rock quality deteriorates continue rightwards to exit into a grassy gully.

Start as for Madonna.

1. 19 m Up the groove to a tree at 3 m. Pass behind the tree and traverse left to a large flake. Straight up for a few feet above the flake until one can traverse left to a groove which leads to a large flake belay.

2. 15 m (Crux). Bridge up the twin cracks and then follow the single crack to the extreme left end of the rampline.

3. 12 m Follow the rampline past a flakey wall to above a prominent pinnacle (junction with Madonna).

4. 31 m Follow the rampline past a cave to easy ground (as for Madonna).

This climb is on the more broken right side of the bay of the previous two climbs. The technical difficulties are in the first 15 m. Start just left of a tree.

1. 28 m Climb the slab and cracks a few feet left of the tree until one can start a long easy traverse right (just below the top of the tree), to a wide curving crack, Follow this to a good thread belay.

2. 18 m Mantleshelf onto the chock, move right and mantleshelf again. Move left go the start of a rampline pulling over a bulge to a belay.

3. 28 m Follow the rampline right with a short wall to finish on a grass ramp.

At the top of the first bay to the left of the white trunked tree and arrowhead is a corner which leads into the extreme left of about nine parallel corners set halfway up the cliff.

1. 25 m (Severe). At 17 m, break left out of the corner and continue upwards until a traverse leads to the right, past an obvious spike belay. Up to the ledge at the foot of the main crack.

2. 18 m (Hard Very Severe). The corner becomes fierce with difficult bridging and jamming until an escape can be made onto the left wall, which is climbed to an overhang. An airy step right across the top of the crack leads to the belay.

3. 34 m (Mild Very Severe). Move up leftwards at first and then continue to the final wall (possible grassy escape to the right). Climb wall until it steepens and a sloping traverse ledge leads into an open chimney. The easier angle is now compensated by deteriorating rock which maintains interest to the end, a mantleshelf off a spike.

Start at the white tree in the centre of the crag and follow the right to left rampline which is grassy along much of its length.

1. 46 m Up to block belay on easy ground.

2. 37 m Up to V cleft.

3. 12 m Step across V cleft and up right into gully.

About 200 ft. past the Tree on the left, is a large arrowhead, with its tip about two-thirds of the height of the cliff. A long crack on the left hand side of this feature leads down to a tree with a white trunk.

1. 40ft. Scramble up to the right of the white tree.

2. 70ft. Reach the base of the crack proper, turning the steepness on the left. Large rock belay.

3. The corner is good, avoid the marrow plant.

4. 50ft. Easily up the corridor behind the tip of the arrow.

5. 100ft. Step off a flake at the right end of the corridor for a few steep moves (crux), then straight up in good position.

Start directly below the arrowhead left of the bay, about 5 m left of some trees at 3 m.

1. 24 m Aim for a wide square cut corner/chimney at 50 ft. and exit from this on the left, onto easier ground and continue to thread belays.

2. 21 m Traverse diagonally right across blocks until an easy gully is reached which leads behind the arrowhead.

3. 30 m Climb the rock behind the belay using a pocket and follow the ramp left to ah obvious perched block. Traverse horizontally left to join Arrowhead chimney and follow this for a few feet to a tree belay.

4. 12 m Easily to top.

Just left of The Tree is a second tree. Just right of this is a chimney.

1. 26 m The corner and then the chimney with a brief excursion to the right low down. Prom the top of the chimney climb to the right hand corner of the bay,

2. 23 m Climb the corner behind the belay until forced left into a niche. Pull left, low down onto a slab, (not the top slab but the one below), and traverse to a groove. Move up and across the next slab to the foot of a large leaning flake. Climb this to a belay at the top.

3. 15 m Continue up the arete to a large ledge.

4. 18 m From the left hand end of the ledge go up to a block runner. Step right and climb a steep wall to a belay.

5. 18 m Gain a stairway on the right which leads easily to the top.

In the middle of the face is sort of a gully with three prominent cracks on the left. The climb starts beneath the right tree.

1. Climb with some difficulty to the tree.

2. Climb behind the polished tree on slabs, moving left then up and back right over blocks and down to the right using a crack at the top of a slab. This ends up at a ledge about 25 ft. above the tree. Peg belay.

3. Move right and up onto a bulge pulling up from this with a poor hand jam on the right (crux), continue to a cave.

4. Squeeze through the back of the block and climb a crack in the wall on the left. At the overhang pull up into a vegetated groove which leads to the top.

Start 6 m left of The Crab.

1. 18 m Step onto the slab and traverse left for 6 m to reach a corner. Climb the left wall to a good ledge. Either straight up for 3 m or more easily gain the crack on the right and climb this to the overhangs. Traverse left to gain a ledge belay.

2. 18 m From the left of the niche step up and follow easy ground to the foot of a prominent crack. Climb this for about 6 m to a stance and peg belay.

3. 22 m Using the dubious-looking holds on the right gain the slab on the right and continue round the arete to an easy looking crack. Climb this and exit left to easy ground.

Directly below the skyline flake is a finger of rock (9 m high), about one third of the way up the cliff. The climb gains this finger by starting 6 m to the right.

1. 9 m Climb up to the slab and traverse about 19ft. left until the arete just left of the bush can be followed to a niche belay.

2. 12 m Gain the chimney on the left of the finger which leads to the bay and belay below another chimney to the right.

3. 31 m The chimney leads to a gully and easy climbing.

( Alternate start: a few feet right of the ordinary route. Climb to the level of the finger and traverse left to its base at 9 m. Now up the crack behind the finger. Unclimbed as of the old guidebook).

The bay has an obvious chimney on the left, with a large chockstone two-thirds of the way up. Start beneath chimney.

1. 15 m A short awkward chimney leads to an impressive crack. Traverse left past another crack, to reach the foot of a second chimney. Climb this to to a stance on top of a pinnacle.

2. 9 m Gain the ledge on the right and follow the arete until a move can be made which leads to the foot of a chimney.

3. 19 m Follow the chimney until a traverse right can be made into the steep right-hand chimney. Climb this until one can reach the large chockstone on the face.

4. 12 m Easily to top.

To the right of The Tree is a grassy bay, in the centre of which stands a buttress partially split by a vertical groove.

1. 34 m Consistently interesting. Start the groove with difficulty (crux). When it lies back at about 14 m, take the crack and nose on the left. Belay on a ledge about 6 m below the change of slope.

2. 40 m More easily, the angle soon relents and the climb ends in a scramble.

In the middle of Springs Wall there is a bay. Start right of this bay where the rock is at its lowest and there is a steep groove.

1. 32 m Climb the corner groove (peg runner) till it ends beneath a steep blank wall. Climb this wall to belay on a good ledge below a big corner.

2. 16 m Climb the corner, traverse left onto the brown wall and ascend the central crack. Good belay ledge at top.

3. 44 m Move left around the corner. Straight up to finish.

Start about 24 m right of the direct start.

1. 24 m Up a staircase at first ending in a large recess on the right. Block belays.

2. 30 m Descend a little and traverse left to the bush. Climb up from the bush for about 8 m onto a shattered slab. Traverse left taking the upper of two small slabs. A final step leads to the rib bounding pitch 2 of the.original route. Belay on the rib.

3. Descend into the corner and traverse onto brown wall to join the original route.

Some 60 m right of the right-most fig tree a huge boulder lies against the cliff with a tiny cave to its left. Above, shattered cracks lead to a pale corner with a crack to the left. Climb the shattered cracks to a short steep wall; above this climb an easy corner and move right to the arete (30 m). Move back into corner and climb the clean grey corner by a crack on the left (crux at start); where the crack narrows move left over dubious rock to a stance (20 m). Step right and move up over loose-looking blocks to regain the corner. Bridge up this (V) in a spectacular position till easy ground leads left to the top.

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

Start approximately 91 m left of Simplex. The grassy bay rises in two bumps. At the top of the left-hand bump, the start is marked with an arrow.

1. 18 m Climb straight up for 6 m until forced to step left and then up onto a block. Bear right to a good ledge and thread belay.

2. 16 m Immediately on the right is a large pinnacle (not obvious from below). Chimney up behind this until the top Is reached. Step down to the left and traverse left easily along large ledges until an awkward step down left can be made. Up right to a ledge and belay below an overhanging crack above the awkward step.

3. 18 m Climb the crack (much easier than it looks) and then the arete above until an easy rake is reached.

4. 25 m Follow the rake right and then straight up.

Start at the lowest point of the cliff in this section about 137 m from the right end. Marked with an "S".

1. 29 m Climb up for 1.5 m then traverse left for 3 m to below a grass ledge. Gain this from the left and bear slightly left to a ramp which leads to a good ledge and peg belay.

2. 14 m Climb up this wall behind the belay moving left at half height to a thread belay below a wide deep crack.

3. 20 m Follow the crack until it overhangs. Traverse up right and then back left to join the crack at a large chockstone belay.

4. 20 m Traverse back right for 5 m to a wide crack which is followed to a niche and exit right to a sloping ledge. Easy rock leads to the top.

First impressions are that the grade is 22 A2, but we would be happy for a second ascent party to downgrade the difficulty. Will write up description, but anyone wanting to repeat the route, can contact me at any time. Three pitches, right-hand side of Springs Wall, through the left side of overhangs.

Don't waste your time, it's really a gully. Grotty scrambling below makes it unsuitable for descent.

40m. R of Excelsior there is a pale, blank wall. The R side of this has a vertical crack system running from top to bottom. Start in a slight recess directly below the cracks.

1. 20m 5a. Gain a L—facing flake crack, climb this then up to a boulder-strewn ledge.

2. 25m 5b. Traverse R below the overhanging, rotten base of the main crack. Up steeply to slab, step back L into crack which is followed to a comfortable ledge and belay on the L.

3. 15m 5b/c. Continue up crack to ledge. Traverse L round and arete to a good hanging belay.

4. 20m 5c/6a. Climb the arete L of the belay and steep crack above to a deep bay and good belays.

5. 20m. Easier ground on the R leads to the top.

See p.23 of MCK bulletin 86 for full write-up.

The route is up the North-West corner of the tower facing the approach track.

1. 3 m Up a rock ridge, an easy angle but loose in parts. Good stance at belay where the ridge meets the main wall.

2. 9 m Move left round detached block and from the top of this climb overhanging step, and up face, move on small outward sloping ledges, keeping in left corner.

3. 13 m Continue up face but bear right towards an overhanging corner. Rounded rock with few holds. Step round corner below overhang onto small platform. A good belay can be fixed above by first climbing higher than the traverse level. Handholds are scarce and balance critical. From platform right up steep slabs with small holds to stump of fig tree growing at the top, where the slab dies out. By using a sling the stump can be used as a belay.

4. 16 m Go up directly over stump for 3 m,where doubtful tree belay on the right can be obtained. Small holds. Continue diagonally left up vertical but broken rock then up a slight depression. At the top bear right to foot of an obvious chimney, there is a comfortable stance for one man and a rock belay. Care is required on this pitch, the rock being fragile.

5. 19 m Climb either straight up the chimney, or on the face on the right. Both are vertical but there are reasonable holds. Care is however needed as the rock bears a striking resemblance to cooked mud. A few easy slabs and the top is reached. A shrub tree provides a most comfortable belay and resting place.

1. The same as Route One until the main wall is reached.

2. Now move up wall bearing slightly right, until a move can be made round corner on right. Move Up wall above then, onto rib on right, a swing round into a groove and ledge belay.

3. Climb straight above up broken arete, and into groove which leads to the summit. The route is obvious when started and involves a fair bit of traversing always to the right.

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

This is on the South-East corner of Central Tower, ie., the side away from the road. An obvious rib runs up this side. Climb the rib till a sloping ledge bends right to a platform. Climb steep rocks on rib which is followed up to ledge below slabs. Follow the slabs keeping left under overhang, then move round the overhang on the right and up steep slabs to the summit. (Pegs used for protection).

1. 30 m At the back of the pinnacle broken vegetated rock leads to a steep chimney; climb up the broken rock to the left of the chimney line and then traverse diagonally right and up a groove to belay in a large cave at the foot of chimney.

2. 22 m Climb the chimney first on the right wall of the cave then direct over chockstones to land in a large tree and move right to the summit (for descent the tree makes a good abseil point).

1. 30 m Start as for Original Route, but carry on left to get onto a terrace above the steep lower wall on the left.

2. 22 m From the left end of the terrace take a line going up to near the summit and then diagonally round back right to the top.

The route winds up the face opposite El Barta. The first section ascends overlapping slabs until it gets steep, then traverses left to tree. Up wall and onto a rake chimney where a final steep pitch leads to the top.

At the left end of the recessed area is a large guano-smeared cave/chimney. This climb takes the crack to the right of this. Bridge up past the chockstones to the leftwards slantrng crack. Follow this to the top (crux). Good protection all the way.

Historic route number: 1

Climb the wide chimney to the right of the previous route, to the overhang. Move onto the left wall below a narrow crack. Climb this to the finish (crux).

Historic route number: 2

Ian Howell's 60th birthday present from MCK! This super little route is a rare commodity at Frog - a relatively easy sport climb. Start on left side of small buttress below an obvious horizontal flake/hold at 5'. Climb straight up over 4 bolts.

Historic route number: 2a

This good route ascends the arete immediately left of 'Thick and Thin'. Start directly beneath bolt, and climb bulging wall on good holds to ledge on arete at 20'. Follow arete past a second bolt to crux finishing moves.

Historic route number: 2b

At the extreme left end of the Bookhouse Cliffs, a detached block forms a wide curving crack facing north. This route climbs the chimney 6' to the right. Awkward moves at the start lead to a bulge. Climb over this to a ledge on the left, and surmount small detached block. Step right to easy finish.

Historic route number: 3

First bolt shared with 'Legends Of The Fall', then head left.

The name is probably recorded in the New Climbs book.

This route is a pure sport climb past eight bolts, and takes the imposing wall immediately right of 'Thick and Thin'. A strenuous hard start leads to a ledge on a grey block at 12'. Easier climbing leads up rightwards to a small bulge below a groove on right side of wall. The groove gets harder and harder until a crux step left is made to a good 'letter-box' hold on the left wall. Two strenuous moves above lead to easier climbing up into a recess. Step right and finish up rightwards.

Historic route number: 3a

First 3(?) bolts shared with 'Legends Of The Fall', then head right.

The name is probably recorded in the New Climbs book.

This jamming exercise climbs the obvious narrowing crack in the north lacing wall 30' right of 'Thick and Thin'.

Historic route number: 4

Begin just to the right of 'Bazooka'. Climb a crack until an awkward move can be made out to the left onto the obvious break which horizontally crosses Bazooka . Traverse leftwards across 'Bazooka', then climb the wall direct to tree belay.

Historic route number: 5

This is the obvious natural line which ascends the centre of the buttress. [21] for the first 15' only. Ascend the thin righiwards sloping crackline past two bolts to a groove. Climb this awkwardly and make a difficult step left onto a ledge. Move up short bulging wall to tree stump. and follow cracks above leftwards to another bulging wall which is climbed. Traverse left around corner then up rightwards to top.

Historic route number: 6

Around the corner to the right is a chimney leading to a roof with a long fig tree root. Climb the chimney to just below the chockstone at 15', and move out onto the left wall. Continue over bulge, moving leftwards to a bolt above. A technical move (crux) leads past the bolt to the top.

Historic route number: 7

This route shares the same start as 'Asylum Years' but continues up to the grey hanging root. Climb to the roof and move out onto the left wall (crux). Continue to the top.

Historic route number: 8

Unprotected for first 25'. Climb the centre of the large recessed grey slab to the horizontal break. Continue up slab above to top.

Historic route number: 9

The thin crack on the right edge of the recessed grey slab is climbed on fingerjams, then the wider easier crack to the top.

Historic route number: 10

This route climbs the left wall of this cliff, and starts at a point where the wall bulges by a crack at 10'. Climb the crack and step left to bolt. Move up (crux), then step left when possible into break. Follow this more easily to top.

Historic route number: 11

Start 15' right of 'Broken Arrow' where there is a groove below a prominent tree with grey roots. [21] for the first 15' only. Difficult moves up past two bolts lead to groove. Follow this up leftwards to vertical tree roots. Climb these with difficulty into tree. Ascend the crack above to the top.

Historic route number: 12

This route starts on the small outcrop just before 'Frog Buttress'. A crack splits the cliff. Climb this to top.

Historic route number: 13

This route starts on a small buttress immediately to the left of the main 'Frog Buttress'. Climb the two cracks at the left end of the cliff to a small tree. Traverse a long way rightwards until a move up can be done, enabling a long traverse rising leftwards to be made. When possible make an awkward exit up onto a small grassy ledge and the top. This is a poorly protected route, justifying its name, but nonetheless having a certain quality.

Historic route number: 14

This is a direct version of the above route and begins in the same place. Up the chimney to tree. Move up and take the overhang by the bolt, finishing up some 'short and explosive' moves to top.

Historic route number: 15

This is the obvious chimney at the extreme left end of the main 'Frog Buttress'. Climb the chimney until a move out right can be made, and go up past a small tree. Move up the crack above, stepping left across wall and up to top.

Historic route number: 16

Immediately right of the chimney is a steep wall with a bolt at 12'. Climb directly to bolt and move right to avoid bulge. Up and step left above bulge, then straight up past small tree. Move up and step left across chimney into an awkward blind crack which leads up, then right to finish. A direct finish from the lower bulge was later added by Uif Carlsson 7/2/94.

Historic route number: 17

Only the first 12' of this climb is [18]. Start right of 'Esprit' beneath a shallow groove. Climb awkwardly to bolt. Above the bolt step right, and easily up to horizontal crack. Climb straight up and follow thin crack to top.

Historic route number: 18

At the right end of the cliff, to the right of the aid cracks is a bulging wall with a bolt at 10'. Climb with difficulty (crux), past the bolt, then step left to crack. Up this to ledge. Follow obvious chimney system to top.

Historic route number: 19

Start as for 'Bastille'. Climb to bolt then step right and ascend directly with increasing difficulties to the top.

Historic route number: 20

This climb is marred by the close proximity of the tree. The first few moves off the ground are [16], the rest of the climb being [15]. Start right of the big tree, under the first bolt. Straight up awkwardly (the boulder to the right of the start should not be used for assistance), and slightly left under two big branches that can be used for protection. Pass the second bolt to the left (crux) and step back right and finish above.

Historic route number: 21

First climbed on Ian Howell's 50th birthday! Start about 15' right of 'Finally First', at a chimney. Climb this and traverse left to gain another wide crack. Follow this to the top.

Historic route number: 22

To the right of 'Hamsini' is a big block and another corner. The corner is taken to the top.

Historic route number: 23

This route climbs the first crack in the wall right of 'Frog Buttress'. Climb up to a wide bay where a crack runs diagonally left. G0 up and over the left end of the overhang.

Historic route number: 24

Climb the Wall 10' to the right of 'Amnesia'. Move right into the crack at the small tree and up this to finish.

Historic route number: 25

To the right of 'Blue Valentine' is a large fig tree with its roots growing 20' up a wide crack. Climb the crack to the top.

Historic route number: 26

This route goes up the next wide crack to the right.

Historic route number: 27

The crack to the right of 'The Shoot'.

Historic route number: 28

The next crack on the right with a chockstone halfway up.

Historic route number: 29

At the left end of the crag is a short chimney. Take this to a ledge and then easily right to the final wall. Climb slab past a tree and exit right up a crack.

Historic route number: 30

This route starts 30' to the right of 'R2D2' at the base of a large flake that slants leftwards. Climb the flake to the wide groove above. Up this and move up to a crack leading past a small tree to the top.

Historic route number: 31

To the right of 'Legionnaire' is an impressive red buttress with a short wide chimney containing a large projecting chockstone. Immediately right is a thin crack leading to a horizontal break. Climb the crack and traverse rightwards along the break to a groove. Move up this (crux), and then make hard moves right (crux) to gain the obvious flake and finish.

Historic route number: 32