Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Popularidade | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Gozo Wied il-Mielaħ The Cauldron & Upstream Boulder | |||||
6c+ | ★ Mistress of Evil
| 11m | |||
6c+ | Broom Rider
| 13m | |||
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Taurus Wall | |||||
{UK} E3 UKT:5c | Vegemite
Start at the left hand edge of the cave with numerous stalagtites. Trend left, then straight up past pockets and bulges | 25m | |||
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini The Nose | |||||
{UK} E4 UKT:5c | Charles Aznavour
| 30m, 4 | |||
{UK} E1 UKT:5c | Chiara Bella
| 24m | |||
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Flakeout Walls | |||||
6c+ | The Mysterious Dutchman
| 18m | |||
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Dream Walls | |||||
6c+ | Tulips of Amsterdam
| 22m | |||
6c+ | ★★★ Chances
| 22m | |||
6c+ | Lost Chance
| 22m | |||
Gozo Mġarr ix-Xini Champagne Walls | |||||
{UK} E3 UKT:5c/6a | Rubber Duck
From the top of the middle boulder, take the bulge on the left and climb the wall to the left of the caves. | 25m | |||
Gozo San Blas Tower of Power | |||||
6c+ | Rhino Chaser
| 30m | |||
Gozo San Blas Sopu Tower Cliffs | |||||
6c+ | ★★ Boob Job
| 22m | |||
6c+ | ★★ No Job
| 22m | |||
Gozo San Blas Chalice of Malice Chalice of Malice Alley | |||||
6c+ | ★★★ Scoop De Jour
| 28m | |||
6c+ | Beaver Beating Vegan
| 13m | |||
Gozo Wied ix-Xlendi Vine Cave | |||||
6c+ | ★ Hollow Head
| 10m | |||
6c+ | ★★ Cave Dwelling
| 22m | |||
Gozo Wied ix-Xlendi Bamboo Jungle | |||||
6c+ | Hip Lock
| ||||
6c+ | Fly Away
| 15m | |||
Gozo Black Slabs | |||||
6c+ | ★ Star Ride
| 7m, 3 | |||
Comino Il-Mistika Cave | |||||
{UK} E3 UKT:5c | ★★ Raiders of the Lost Aardvark
| 20m | |||
Malta Għar Ħasan Wied Ħasan Bouldering | |||||
V3 | Mad Hackers
The overhang just right past the heart-shaped scoop. FA: John Moulding, 1999 | ||||
V3 | The Apologist
Just left of the big cave is a diagonal crack with a sloping finish. FA: Jeffrey Camilleri, 1998 | ||||
V3 | Dragonflight
From the slot move left to black flowstone then a hand traverse line left to the undercut prow, up this. FA: Jeffrey Camilleri, 2001 | ||||
Malta Għar Ħasan Wied Ħasan Seacliffs | |||||
6c+ S3 | Dead End
Follow Swinger to before the 'brilliant' traverse. Step down and continue at sea level past a sea-washed section. Continue easily until a steeper section leads onto a narrow wall betwixt roofs and the sea. Follow this to cracks. Swim back or continue up loose, dirty cracks to a cave. FA: Crispin Waddy, 1999 | 100m | |||
Malta Wied Żnuber | |||||
{UK} E3 UKT:6a | Maltemp sajfi
Start climbing on loose rock up until you reach a ledge a third of the way up. Pro- tection is useless up to this point. Continue on the overhang diagonally to the right up until you reach a resting position in a hole about two thirds of the way up. Climb right, out of the hole. There are a couple of good slings as protection, however placing them will drain your energy. FA: William Hicklin | 17m | |||
{UK} E2/3 UKT:5c | Double black
The climb is poorly protected. Climb up to a sling about half way up the route and continue slightly to the right to access a good sling protection on the right of the right black streak. Move back to the left for the exit. FA: William Hicklin | 16m | |||
Malta Wied Bassasa Il-Minkba | |||||
{UK} E4 UKT:5c | ★ Very Ordinary Route
| 30m | |||
{UK} E5 UKT:6a | ★★★ Equinox
| 30m | |||
{UK} E4 UKT:6a | ★★★ Chasing the Midnight Sun
| 30m | |||
{UK} E2 UKT:5c | ★★ Extremities
| 30m | |||
Malta Blieqa | |||||
6c+ | Lock Down
| 14m | |||
6c+ | Kamaleonte
| 14m | |||
6c+ | Hatun Machay
| 14m | |||
Malta It-Tirxija Pillar Box Cave | |||||
{UK} E4 UKT:5c | Lord of the Thais
| 45m | |||
6c+ | ★★★ Circus Oz
Crag classic! Straight through series of tufas and other varied holds, to some unfortunately sharp holds over the top at the anchor. | ||||
{UK} E3 UKT:5c | Continental Drifters
| 50m | |||
Malta It-Tirxija It-Tirxija Wall | |||||
{UK} E4 UKT:6a/b | Jungle Manners
A direct on The Division Bell. Takes the steep crack directly above the black slabs. Nuts about Rock 7 size are crucial | 70m | |||
{UK} E2/3 UKT:5c | Crinkled Pinks
1
E2/3 5c
2
S 4a
Belay as for The Division Bell, 6m right of the star shaped hole. 50m 5c. Up easy angled rock just right of the slight groove to a white bulge at 10m. Over to follow a rightward ramp under a rightward leaning overhang. Go up left to a fig tree then right to an awkward blunt arete, then a thread at the righthand end of a bulge. Take the difficult crack to the right then the wall left of a bush. 20m 4a. Up easy slabs above | 70m, 2 | |||
{UK} E3 UKT:5c | Crossly Notes
Starting 20m right along the shelf from the edge of the buttress, take an indefinite line up to a steep groove and walls above. Up slabs, easily at first, to a short groove. Continue directly up the juggy overhanging wall, thread, then the steep, less endowed wall above to a small ledge. Climb in the same line on sharp rock to finish up a steep chimney right of a long diagonal crack. | 70m | |||
{UK} E3 UKT:5c | ★★ Momentary Lapse of Reason
1
5a
2
E3 5c
3
4b
A brilliant route taking the red, barrel shaped wall and the prow above direct, high in the grade. Starts as for Wish You Were Here?. 1 - 20m 5a. The slabs and white groove as for WYWH to the 2 piton and nut belay on the ledge. 2 - 35m 5c. Go straight over the bulge above (friend 3 or near useful). Step right with difficulty. Up and left to small nuts, traverse right delicately to near the right edge of the buttress. Continue up for 10m until you can gain the right end of a handrail, thread, leading up and left to a short corner crack under the prow. Good hidden holds and nut protection lead to an 'out of this world' stance on the lip of the prow. Nut belays up and left. 3 20m 4b. To the top of the pillar and diagonally right across easy slabs to thread belays above the ledge. | 75m, 3 | |||
Malta Garden of Eden Fearless Cave | |||||
6c+ | ★ 47 Moves
Set: Mark Sansone, Feb 2024 | 24m, 11 | |||
6c+ | Two Sticky
Set: Nicola Gatti, Feb 2024 | 22m, 9 | |||
Malta Garden of Eden Fearless Wall | |||||
6c+ | Ali
| ||||
6c+/7a | Cyborg Tommy
| ||||
Malta Wied Babu Il-Blata ta' Għanċula | |||||
{UK} E2 UKT:5c | Bambleweenie-57 Sub-Meson Atomic Brain
| 10m | |||
{UK} E2 UKT:6a | Short-Circuit
| 10m | |||
Malta Wied Babu The Flying Arête | |||||
{UK} E3 UKT:6a | Ġenn
Starting from a gorse filled ledge, up the slab and thin curving crack to the hanging piton. Desperately left into the sloping groove. Finish more easily up the upper slabs. FA: Simon Alden, 1995 | 18m | |||
6c+ | L'Uomo Tappeto
FA: 1995 | 20m | |||
{UK} E3 UKT:5c | ★★ Intimmydation
Start in the middle of the vegetated ledge system. Up a poorly protected slab to better geared slabs then small ledges below the steep wall. Gain a diagonal fault (camming Ns). Spaced hidden moves out right then a step back left over an overlap to reach a belay. FA: John Codling, 1992 | 25m | |||
Malta Wied Babu West Side Story | |||||
6c+ | Cat Burglar
| 18m | |||
6c+ | Rock Salt
| 20m | |||
Malta Wied Babu Smoothies Cave | |||||
6c+ | ★ Cherry Buzz
| 20m | |||
6c+ | Coctufa Paradise
| 18m | |||
Malta Blue Grotto Promontory Blue Wall | |||||
{UK} E4/5 UKT:6a | Dream of Blue Turtles
Direct up the centre of the Blue Wall, with an independent start from the ledges. Up past an insitu thread(!) then follow the faint groove directly past a piton. Thin and exposed but brilliant. FA: John Codling, 1987 | 35m | |||
{UK} E4 UKT:6a | Goodbye Girls
Directly up from the left side of the ledges past good jugs at 5m. Continue up to a good wire placement then traverse 3m right to two small sloping ledges. Make a hard move to get your feet onto the first one and hands on the second (wire runner), step down and right to a thin diagonal crack. Make a move up then reach right for a good hold and runner in the next crack-line. Follow this till beneath the final leaning wall. Move up to a horizontal crack and finish strenuously slightly right. FA: Roger Brookes, 1987 | 35m | |||
Malta Ħamrija Tower Cobra Cave | |||||
6c+ | ★★ Megaliticos
FA: James Herrera, 7 Jun 2014 | ||||
6c+ | ★★★ Astronomically Aligned
FA: James Herrera, 2014 | ||||
Malta Ghar Lapsi Twin Caves | |||||
{UK} E3/4 UKT:6a | ★★★ Kerbside Warrior
The smooth scoop on the right wall of the cave. Up to the thread then swing right and up the crack and wall more delicately | 20m | |||
Malta Ghar Lapsi Learning to Fly Cave | |||||
{UK} E3 UKT:5c | Flypie
| 15m | |||
6c+ | Rooftop Promenade
| 18m | |||
Malta Ghar Lapsi Terry's Cave | |||||
6c+ | ★★★ 1500m
Shared start with previous 2 routes, then right and up. | 18m | |||
6c+ | ★★★ El Negro
Start at the right end of the cave | 18m | |||
Malta Ghar Lapsi McCarthy's Cave | |||||
6c+ | I Have a Dream
Furthest left hand route. | 16m | |||
6c+ | The Road
Shared start with previous route, continuing straight up. | 12m | |||
Malta Ghar Lapsi Quarry steps | |||||
6c+ | ★ Thymeless
| 28m | |||
Malta Ghar Lapsi Magħlaq Cave | |||||
6c+ | The Scientist
| ||||
{UK} E2 UKT:6a | Mean Fokker
| 16m | |||
Malta Xaqqa | |||||
{UK} E3 UKT:6a | Route of all Evil
The smooth bulging white slab, starting just left of the crystallized rugosity to finish at a piton. | 15m | |||
6c+ | Xaqqa Sea Cliff Traverse (links to My Corona)
1
5b
28m
2
6c+
26m
3
4a
11m
4
abseil
30m
5
4a
35m
6
5a
7m
Starts just to the left of Klin Selvaġġ. 1st 2 pitches are traverses (avoid climbing above bolts). Beware of loose rocks on the easy 3rd pitch and the 4th pitch which is an abseil. 5th pitch is a walking traverse at sea level with a 5m long section at the end for which you'll need to use your hands (4a), to reach the platform stance for the 6th pitch. 6th pitch is a short vertical wall to reach the 1st shelf stance of My Corona. | 140m, 6 | |||
Malta Wied Qirda Grey Slabs Area | |||||
{UK} E3 UKT:6a | Holy Mummy
Delicate grey slabs 6m left of the crack, no gear on crux | 22m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East Twin Caves | |||||
{UK} E2 UKT:5c | Resurrection Shuffle
Climb the large overhang at the righthand end of the righthand cave where a thread is visible at the lip of the overhang. | 10m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East The Lurcher Cave | |||||
{UK} E2 UKT:5c | Carambola
Climb the central pillar above two mini caves to the niche, then move left past a hole to finish up the pocketed overlap. | 6m | |||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b/c | Caqlembuta
Climb the central pillar moving right to a niche. Finish right up the V-gap in the overhangs | 6m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East The Gape Cave | |||||
{UK} E1 UKT:5b/c | Black Sweat
The overhanging grey corner. Awkward at best | 8m | |||
{UK} E2 UKT:5c | ★ No Sweat
Start as for The Gape but continue directly over the roof on good jugs. | 15m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faham East Behind the Wall | |||||
{UK} E1 UKT:5c | ★ Swift Undercut
The center of the wall | 6m | |||
{UK} E2 V4 FB:6A | ★ Deceptive
Start below a scoop at the righthand end of the wall above the shelf, up this to a t then left on big pockets to the top. | 8m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Faħam Wied Faħam West Ċikka | |||||
{UK} E2 UKT:5c | ★ Ċikka
Leg jam the crescent then pray as you reach for the distant flat hold above its lip. pull out leftwards. | 10m | |||
{UK} E2 UKT:6a | ★★ Cicciolina
Up the crescent but reach for the rat-hole and exist direct | 10m | |||
{UK} E3 UKT:5c | ★★ Custer's Last Stand
A line out of the back of the righthand niche of the cave. Climb the black righthand crevasse to the roof, traverse right under the roof, pull out on widely spaced jugs past a hole. | 10m | |||
{UK} E2 UKT:6a | The Cavalry
The bulge just right, then a black streak in a corner scoop. | 10m | |||
{UK} E2 UKT:5c | Wham Bam
The center of the wall between two recesses. Trend right past a hole and T then up the arete to finish. | 18m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Crazy Horse Cave | |||||
6c+ | ★★ Outsider
Furthest left route. Up past scoop and out roof to top. | 14m | |||
{UK} E3 UKT:6a | Ride of the Valkyries
| 14m | |||
{UK} E1 UKT:5c | ★★★ Whammer Jammer
| 12m | |||
{UK} E3 UKT:5c | Fat Cats
| 12m | |||
{UK} E2 UKT:6a | Crazy Horse
| 11m | |||
{UK} E2 UKT:5c | Beefcake
| 14m | |||
{UK} E4/5 UKT:6a | Two Precious
| 9m | |||
{UK} E4 UKT:6a | Victorious Lions
| 11m | |||
{UK} E1 UKT:5c | Inri Varadi
| 11m | |||
{UK} E2 UKT:5c | Monkey Business 2
| 9m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Anġlu Stairway to Heaven | |||||
{UK} E1 UKT:5c | Roads to Roam
| 14m | |||
{UK} E1 UKT:5c | Stairway to Heaven
| 14m | |||
{UK} E1 UKT:5c | Walls to Fall
| 14m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Anġlu Anġlu Cracks | |||||
{UK} E3 UKT:6a | ★★★ Idiot's Arete
| 17m | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Wied Anġlu Hangover Area | |||||
{UK} E2 UKT:6a | Free Radical
Up the black streak | 11m, 1 | |||
Malta Victoria Lines Crucifix Cave | |||||
6c+ | Cristina Direct
| 20m | |||
{UK} E2 UKT:5c | Less Funky than Monkey
| 23m |