Vias em New Zealand para uma graduação selecionada

Instead of belaying at the bolts at the end of the first pitch of The Dihedral, carry on straight up through some flakey ground (crux) to the crack (cams). Follow the crack left around a corner (cams) and up to a piton to belay. To descend, traverse left and down to a small tree and abseil off.

Cool sling thread feature on the arete

Sit start in the right hand roof, pull though onto the face and traverse to the left stay low though the harder part and straight out up to the finish.

Sit start. Match on the jug in the large crack. Head straight up with a big move and then follow the nice holds to the left.

Start on the right facing smear and left toe pocket. trust your feet and stand up till some holds can be reached.

Traverse left to right along the juggy lip and finish past Free Range.

Sit start matched on prominent juggy crack down and right. Move out left to traverse along seam and top out. Avoid topping out early - try to get to the left end of the seam before topping out.

Problem is located to the left of Butternut, down the embankment.

Sit start and find a way to climb the crack.

Match on the arête. Move up the right side.

Match on the long juggy ridge. Leap between jugs or include a few crimps to top out on the right.

Start by matching your hands on the trail while smearing on the wall. Take the left pull and use the good jugs to climb the rock.

Stand start with hands on the arete. Walk your hands along the slopy arete while making use of foot holds as they come along. Top out to the left of the peak.

Great fun for the whole family.

Start from the corner and traverse the route

Start matched on the small ledge. Rock up to the pocket and find your way to the top.

Traverse from the far left to the far right.

Sit start while matching on the jug and climb to the top.

Same easy slab on small wires as The Potarta, but traverse across the dish to the arete, instead of following the direct line up the flaring crack. Next, mantle up onto the shelf and finish on the shared anchor with Over the Mountain.

Follow the crack over a small roof then finish at the anchor of Morning Coffee.

Up blocks and ledges to gain the small roof block, then jam straight up the crack.

Climb to the anchors between "Swan Lake" and "Canadian Summer (M5)". Trad gear all the way, bouldery finish either up the crack (which is protectable with large cam/s) or the arete.

I'm still investigating a possible sport route on the left face to the anchors, needs some cleaning of the choss, don't climb this section in the meantime!

Named after Maungarei and the mokomoko (Māori for skink), there are many around the crag and the two first climbers looked like mokomoko clambering up through the crack or over the arete.

Harder than it looks. Easily up then tricky moves on the arete to reach the break. Move right, then invest a bit more effort to finish.

Start in the corner, then move right onto the face, then up through the bulge.

Trend left of the bolts now that the bridging option is gone with the jenga pile of blocks. Things get easier the higher you go, clip the 3rd bolt with your gate facing outwards. The final face proves tricky, but you can walk off the top to enjoy the strange landscape up above.

Established as a dry tool route at grade M4

The groove to the right of Moral Dilemma to the ledge on the right, then the arete above.

A bridging classic that saw some long falls before the single piton at half height was replaced by 3 bolts. Not quite a sport climb - a good wire protects the moves up to the first bolt.

A bouldery start gets you up into the groove, moving left at the block. Continue leftwards and up over ledges to the Sheerlux anchors. An alternate finish (21) moves right at the top of the groove, up to the Load It For Me anchors.

The deep fire-blackened corner and crack, to the anchor on top of the ledge at halfway. For an extension, continue upwards and right from there at about grade 15 to the rap rings above, or up and left to the anchor above Load It For Me.

Value for money, with 3 cruxes. Climb the low groove to the ledge (crux 1). From the ledge, jam or bridge over the slight bulge (crux 2) and continue up the easier angle slab/crack/groove combination above. Then climb through the bulge and crack (crux 3) to the top. Deserves a star.

Climb to the ledge at the bottom of the corner and crack. Proceed up past the blast hole on the left, then tend right onto the arete and face, up to the ledge. This route has also been climbed entirely using the arete, with the crack for protection only (22). It is possible to traverse carefully to the anchors of Bad Behaviour or Silver Surfer / Orangutang from the top of this, but beware of loose rock above.

Hard start direct into the groove (the ledge on the right is out). Climb the crack to the hanging block then exit left to the anchor above Silver Surfer. Alternately, move right and up the top groove and bulge of Badfinger.

Jump t prow and mantle out

The strenuous left-leaning layback crack. The start is somewhat easier than it once was with the raising of the ground level, but beware the slippery footholds.

Sit Start

Sit start from low jug

Sit start

Sit start and mantle.

Sit start foot jam, then jam or layback your way up the crack.

Sit start bunched up on jugs.

Sit/stand as low as you can and move up the arête.

Stand start the obvious right hand jug and left hand crimp with a high heel and foot. Rock over and exit right up the dull arête.

Pinch the two slopers and work your way up.

Aptly named after Auckland's outdoor gym. Climb the layback crack with your feet on the left hand side boulder.

Sit start and climb up the arête then traverse along the jug rail and exit next to Lulu Lads.

Climb the slopey arête. Don't fall.

An unusual looking groove with bolts on the right wall. Scramble to the ledge at the base of the groove then climb up the groove, which is steeper than it looks and at the 4th bolt step onto the wall. Continue up past 5th bolt to tree belay.

For an easier option, climb just left of the last two bolts at about grade 17

Start up a tricky little face with jams on your right and the arete on your left. Tackle the steepness and a couple difficult moves until you can gain the ledge before finishing up the same line and anchors for Angel of Calcutta.

Access is best at low tide, though you can probably traverse in if the tide is higher.

Start below the pocketed rock (the spongy bovine encephalitis) and climb up tending right until past the second bolt (crux). Move left to the ledge past the third and continue up. DBB.

A rising traverse, start as for "C.J.D Arete" and climb to the second bolt before stepping right into a hand crack where a large nut/cam can be placed. Step right to the fourth bolt on "J.E.M." and continue up "J.E.M."

To the right of the hand crack, at the foot of the first crack is a large sharp rock from which the first bolt can be clipped. Climb out of the overhang to the second bolt and belay off the pohutakawa tree above.

Sit start in the middle of the face using the variety of holds on offer then head right and over the bulge.

Multiple variant betas for this line, the tall man, the delicate & precise and the wrong beta you chose.

Climb the face only, arete is out. Crimp at half height near the arete is in. Alternative Baldwin, Sit start with left hand on side pull in crack and right hand in pocket. Stand up to large slopey crack, match top jug on right to finish.

sit-start using left under-cling and right sloper.

Sit start pull to the top cracks either side are out

Staring from the blocky ground right of Burch St Fairy traverse left to the blocky ground left of Angry red dwarf. Big rocks touching the ground are in for feet.

Caution - lots of loose rock. Be careful Sit start, feet on 1 and 2. left hand on 3 right hand on sloper crimp 4. Only use lower part of 5 side pull. Finish on 6.

Stand start on obvious edges climbing up to match top. Slab to the right is out.

Use the slab face and arete only to gain the top

Use the slab and face only to gain the top, arete and crack are out. Helps to be tall.

Start with both hands on obvious side pulls. Go straight up.

P1: Start on the Rata covered ledge, moving leftwards. Sustained climbing that weaves left and right. Anchor is just to the left of a ledge (where the anchor of Power of Persuasion is located).

P2: Up left through a groove, then heads to the right, crossing the line of Power of Persuasion (be careful to stay on the correct line) then up through a corner to the right of the small roof system. The anchor is just below the top of the crag.

You can continue up and to the left to the anchor of Power of Persuasion and admire the fantastic 360° view from the top of the crag.

Straight up the blunt arete. Move left near the top, then rightwards up the groove to the anchor.

P1: Start on Première, then move right for the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Cross the ine of 100 Buck. Climb up a groove above the 4th bolt.

P2: There are three routes continuing from this anchor. Take the middle one, up a red groove.

Tricky access around back of Hihi Pinnacle. Put up as a Aid route to access the top of the pinnacle. The free climbed in 2020.

Climb up the slab and into the right facing corner. Awaiting info to update the bolter and FA.

5m left of Shelob the route climbs up broken ground to the slab, up the slab and then follows the streak of light rock.

Used to be called 'Red Wall Super Direct' until being freed of its aid point. Is the best start to 'Shiny Goblins'.

Small holds up to the large pine tree protected by hangerless bolts.

Directly up from the right pocket

Right-hand side of the crystal face

Left to right traverse, staying very low. Avoids the ledgy rock on the RH side. A bit friable still.

The overhanging face leads to easier climbing after the bottom boulder. Anchors still need glued in, stay off till then.

After clipping the 8th bolt of 400Ft, traverse left 3m and then up another 10m past 3 more rusty old bolts to another set of anchors. Set up a trad anchor (if you don't trust the bolts) and climb right out onto the impressive prow and up 10m to the top of the wall. Midsized cams and nuts. Gets stars for the exposure, setting and full height excitement, not for the faint hearted. Currently no anchors on the top pitch, downclimbing back to the anchors is the go. Top pitch FFA Zane Bray

Excellent climbing up the face following the positive edges heading diagonally right to an entertaining 19 Crimpy climb as it goes straight up again. From the anchors you can join the grade 16 for 10m of fun climbing (4 bolts) for a full height adventure. Note; if heading to the top the abseil is 38m to the ground, or rap to the top of no fly zone for a 25m rap.

Start from the ledge and traverse right up to a ledge. old bolts have been removed/knocked in. Re bolted but some of the holds at the start look suspiciously formed 🤔

The left line from the main ledge, keep to the right or left if you want a harder outing. as with "old school epics" you can climb past the anchors and mantel the top to get to the top tier.

Climb the the corner (still needs Anchors)