Vias em Ōtākou / Otago

Starts right of TBOW and then crosses TBOW at the ledge to finish on the left. You can mix the start and finish of both routes for variants.

On the short but steep wall. Move right after 4th bolt. Technical moves from start to finish make this an enjoyable route.

Climbs the slab side of the arete, to the left of 'Thyme is Money'. At the 5th bolt ledge either step up to clip (feels exposed but is technically straight-forward) or else borrow a bolt from 'Thyme is Money' and extend it. Nice climbing. Presumably been top-roped for years. Bolted by Dave Ryan. June 2022

To the right of 'Thyme is Money'. Thin opening moves, then cruise straight up the centre of the slab.

The right hand side of the slab by the beach. Clip first bolt from obvious semi-detached flake. Beware that rock quality deteriorates towards top of climb.

Bolted rout to the climbers right of the gully.

Vague crack to right of Quick Thyme. Can clip some bolts on QT if required.

The obvious right leaning crack and semi detached pillar above the beach. Hand jam or lay back as you burry your big hexes and nuts in this beauty - it can be hard to see all the way into the depths when placing gear. Then slip through the willow leaves onto the tricky upper section with less than satisfying pro. There is a loose but keyed in block at about half height. The first ascent, in good 1975 fashion, was made using only hexes and nuts. A good test of ones head space and not a route to be taken lightly. Chain anchor.

The obvious prow on the left. Sinker jams to clip the second bolt. Good flakes and the odd heel hook if you fancy.

Start in the left hand runnel then onto slab with slight runout to second bolt. Pull through small roof on jugs and up to flake and pocket then move left to chains.

Start in the runnel right of The Rat and up slab. Move through crack and bulge with intimidating mantle. The name of this route may be The Rat but it is unclear.

It is possible to traverse from the start of Rat Two to the anchors of Fancy Pants Salmon.

Classic moves to get established in the dish. A nice route for the grade.

Crux at the bottom. Best to avoid the grass to the right at midway.

Tricky start for the grade 2m right of dog food. Try to avoid the grass in the groove.

The lovely corner. Access using via ferrata and traversing right along chain.

Pull along the right-hand via ferrata then head up the lower section of Little Rocket Man. When you've reached the halfway ledge move the belay right a couple of metres to another set of rings. Head right across the stacked blocks and up into the corner. Exciting climbing to the cruxy, pinched-off top on great rock. Swing out right onto the face to a ring belay up high. Belay here or continue out left and around the corner to Little Rocket Man's upper belay (about grade 18).

Aid your way up the chain to the base of the climb! Then follow the open book corner, which requires some thinking in parts. When you exit the corner, step left to the anchor.

Scramble up to the fixed rope to belay from the grassy ledge. Move out left onto the breccia wall then straight up the line.

Scramble up the fixed rope (which can be used as a runner) and after clipping the first bolt of 'Weak Flesh' head up and right over a big flake and into the corner. Surmount three steps then make an unlikely move out right to a big jug on the arete. Pad on up to the summit.

From the fixed rope scramble up to the base of the pillar (2 bolts protect on the side wall). Wind your way up just left of the corner and over onto the ledge at the halfway mark. Straight up the corner onto the top of the pillar.

Start at the base of New Horizons and head out left along a ledge and around the point. Up into the corner and onto the top of a truncated pillar. Squeeze out onto the big sloping ledge above then up the edge of a gently overhanging flake.

Finesse your way up the blank-looking face into the crux, and either test your static reach or resolve your commitment issues for a double dyno to the rail! If you're rocking a shorter stature this might be grade 24 or harder - good luck with the mono alternative beta.. Manoeuvre up towards easier terrain and finish at the shared anchor as for Ride the Spiral.

A great wee route which is currently overgrown with lichen along with Bulemic's Picnic and Teddy Bears Picnic.

A superb route that has unfortunately succumbed to lichen.

Hard moves straight off the deck into enjoyable upper sequence

To the left of Jeremys Route.

Beware, the top has many loose blocks, I don't recommend climbing this until they have been cleared out.

To the right of labours of love. Finishes at the DBB at the top of the slab.

Continues up the face and aeret above the twenty twenty slab