Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.
Table of contents
- 1.
Te Waipounamu / The South Island
15484 in Region
-
1.1.
Te Tauihu-o-te-waka / Marlborough 16 in Region
- 1.1.1. Rarangi 16 in Area
-
1.2.
Te Tai o Aorere, Whakatū / Tasman, Nelson 530 in Region
- 1.2.1. Cobb Road 5 in Area
- 1.2.2. Paynes Ford / Paines Ford 259 in Crag
- 1.2.3. Pōhara / Tarakohe 141 in Crag
- 1.2.4. Mount Owen 94 in Area
- 1.2.5. Cable Bay 31 in Crag
- 1.2.6. Vertical Limits Ltd 0 in Gym
-
1.3.
Waitaha / Canterbury 10437 in Region
- 1.3.1. Ōtautahi / Christchurch City 10 in Artificial
- 1.3.2. Ngā Kohatu Whakarakaraka o Tamatea Pōkai Whenua / The Port Hills 2286 in Region
- 1.3.3. Te Pātaka o Rākaihautū / Banks Peninsula 946 in Region
- 1.3.4. Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin 6000 in Crag
- 1.3.5. Inland Canterbury 216 in Region
- 1.3.6. Aoraki / Mount Cook 419 in Region
- 1.3.7. Ohau 8 in Region
- 1.3.8. South Canterbury 527 in Region
- 1.3.9. Arthur's Pass 25 in Area
-
1.4.
Te Tai Poutini / West Coast 437 in Region
- 1.4.1. Charleston 211 in Crag
- 1.4.2. Punakaiki 116 in Area
- 1.4.3. Fox Glacier 23 in Crag
- 1.4.4. Franz Josef Glacier 24 in Crag
- 1.4.5. Balfour Glacier 0 in Crag
- 1.4.6. Mount Aspiring National Park 38 in Crag
- 1.4.7. Pioneer hut 11 in Crag
- 1.4.8. Turiwhate / Yosemite of Ta Tai Poutini 14 in Crag
-
1.5.
Ōtākou / Otago 3242 in Region
- 1.5.1. Bannockburn 23 in Crag
- 1.5.2. Boat Ramp Crag 7 in Crag
- 1.5.3. Ōtepoti / Dunedin 586 in Region
- 1.5.4. Hulk Hogan Bouldering 78 in Area
- 1.5.5. Island Cliff Valley 62 in Crag
- 1.5.6. Tāhuna / Queenstown 1291 in Region
- 1.5.7. Wānaka 1116 in Region
- 1.5.8. Shaky Bridge 24 in Crag
- 1.5.9. Lake Dunstan Bluffs 0 in Area
- 1.5.10. Firewood Creek 11 in Crag
- 1.5.11. Jetboat Boulders 7 in Boulder
- 1.5.12. The Gully / Rocky Point 36 in Area
- 1.5.13. Canyon Creek 1 in Area
-
1.6.
Murihiku / Southland 822 in Region
- 1.6.1. Bluff 17 in Crag
- 1.6.2. Castledowns 75 in Crag
- 1.6.3. Colac Bay / Tihaka Crags 64 in Crag
- 1.6.4. Curio Bay 13 in Area
- 1.6.5. Fiordland 647 in Region
- 1.6.6. Gable Rock 6 in Crag
-
1.1.
Te Tauihu-o-te-waka / Marlborough 16 in Region
1. Te Waipounamu / The South Island 15,484 routes in Region
- Summary:
-
Boulder, Escalada esportiva e outros estilos
Lat / Long: -43.556077, 170.568000
1.1. Te Tauihu-o-te-waka / Marlborough 16 routes in Region
- Summary:
-
Escalada esportiva e Escalada trad
Lat / Long: -41.589859, 173.626890
1.1.1. Rarangi 16 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Escalada esportiva e Escalada trad
Lat / Long: -41.391442, 174.048604
sumário
Sport climbing location with 14 routes and potential for more.
descrição
2 areas make up short and long sport climbs
acesso
8 km north of Blenheim turn off SH1 at Tuamarine into Hunter Rd, left into Pembers Rd/Rarangi Rd, and follow left into Rarangi Beach Rd until you reach Monkey Bay Carpark
onde ficar
The crag is walking distance from this campsite. http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/marlborough/places/blenheim-area/things-to-do/campsites/rarangi-campsite/
1.2. Te Tai o Aorere, Whakatū / Tasman, Nelson 530 routes in Region
- Summary:
-
Mostly Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: -41.220402, 172.952067
1.2.1. Cobb Road 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: -41.044714, 172.791196
sumário
Something different from Payne's Ford, pack a lunch and be prepared for a steep hike to great climbing with even better views
acesso
Drive: From UpperTakaka take the Cobb Valley Road into the gorge, right until just before the bridge over the river (6.5km from SH60). Park in the large gravel layby and walk from there (GPS -41.039575 172.788543). Approach: Walk up stream with the river on your right. The path is a bit overgrown and hard to follow so keep your eyes peeled for the pink and blue ribbon markers which will eventually leed up a step hill.
OSM Slab: 30 minute walk Cosmosis Wall: 30 minute further up from OSM Slab
1.2.2. Paynes Ford 259 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: -40.887599, 172.811658
descrição
Paynes Ford is predominantly single-pitch sport climbs on limestone. Angles vary from slippery slabs to massive roofs. Best online guide is http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson/golden-bay/paynes-ford
questões de acesso
Tread lightly as land is DoC-owned and access is not guaranteed. Stick to the formed tracks, respect closed areas, and consult with the locals before conducting any new routing work.
acesso
Head for Takaka. About 2km before it, you'll cross a bridge: park in the carpark on the right, shortly before Hangdog Camp. From here, follow the main access trail. Smaller trails head up from this to the base of the crags.
onde ficar
Hangdog Camp is 5 minutes walk from the crag, or there are other options in Takaka. Hangdog also publish a cheap & cheerful guide to the grade 16-23 climbs for $10, available from the camp.
ética
Mostly sport climbing with the occasional thread. Clearing vegetation is frowned upon and may lead to closures. Abseil or lower off: Don't walk to the top of cliffs as it trashes the vegetation.
1.2.3. Pōhara 141 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: -40.825083, 172.897797
descrição
A nice change from the slopers at Paynes. Pohara is located a ten minute drive North-East of Takaka.
questões de acesso
Parking can be a problem on a busy day.
acesso
All the walls are along the Abel Tasman Drive after the Top10 campsite.
onde ficar
TOP 10 Holiday Park is only a few minutes away.
1.2.4. Mount Owen 94 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: -41.521441, 172.540538
1.2.5. Cable Bay 31 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Escalada em rocha, Escalada trad e outros estilos
Lat / Long: -41.156705, 173.406589
1.2.6. Vertical Limits Ltd 0 routes in Gym
descrição
https://www.verticallimits.co.nz/
34 Vanguard St, Nelson, Aotearoa,
1.3. Waitaha / Canterbury 10,437 routes in Region
- Summary:
-
Boulder, Escalada trad e outros estilos
Lat / Long: -43.492720, 171.801217
1.3.1. Ōtautahi / Christchurch City 10 routes in Artificial
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Lat / Long: -43.528163, 172.617129
1.3.2. Ngā Kohatu Whakarakaraka o Tamatea Pōkai Whenua / The Port Hills 2,286 routes in Region
- Summary:
-
Escalada esportiva, Escalada trad e outros estilos
Lat / Long: -43.636969, 172.686645
1.3.3. Te Pātaka o Rākaihautū / Banks Peninsula 946 routes in Region
- Summary:
-
Mostly Escalada trad
Lat / Long: -43.750504, 172.877875
1.3.4. Kura Tāwhiti / Castle Hill Basin 6,000 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Boulder
Lat / Long: -43.205303, 171.729936
sumário
The area contains thousands of weather sculptured limestone boulders. It is known around the world for its technical and powerful climbing.
descrição
Castle Hill Basin is a semi-alpine area nestled between the Craigieburn and Torlesse mountain ranges.
The Basin consists of nine fields - Spittle Hill, Quantum Field, Dark Castle, Wuthering Heights, Prebble Hill (The Teapot), Gorge Hill, Cave Stream, Dry Valley and Flock Hill. Each field is filled with unique features and wonderful opportunities to be had. The fields also vary in access rules, so please educate yourself before visiting each one!
Guidebooks for these areas may be found at the YHA in Springfield (for rent only). The Comprehensive Castle Hill Climbing Guide by Matt Pierson and Alan Davison (2009/2015) is out of print and no longer available for purchase elsewhere.
There is an excellent website already established, which is the most up to date and easy to use - https://castlehillbasin.co.nz/ - (I'd totally recommend just using this). It is good to remember that the creator of this website is a climber just like us, and has put a lot of there own free time into this website - if you are going to use the website and thecrag, please refrain from copying and pasting information, to show the all the hard work and time is much appreciated on this free website!
Please be sure to read up on the local etiquette and rules for the fields - https://castlehillbasin.co.nz/info. The rock in the basin is very soft limestone - so is prone to polishing unfortunately quickly. There are a few things the locals will always do to slow this process - clean your shoes, use minimal amounts of chalk, never use chalk on foot holds - chalking up footholds does not help friction, it just polishes the rock at an alarming rate -
Cleaning holds with water and a soft toothbrush will remove chalk, rubber and skin from the pores of the rock and ensure it is in the best possible condition for the next person. If the footholds start turning black from rubber, wash them clean again before the rock starts to polish - please watch this video to help explain - https://youtu.be/Ckt4qebtSOQ?si=WUxTHq6X_viICtiR
Webcam of the area: http://www.castlehill.net.nz/webcam.php
Weather: http://www.castlehill.net.nz/Weather/weather.php
Also close to the excellent Hogs Back MTB trail and half a dozen club ski fields.
questões de acesso
Some areas are part of Kura Tawhiti Conservation Reserve and managed by the DOC; others are private property.
For access to the main Castle Hill area, you can park in the lot available for the Castle Hill Park which contains some walking trails. These walking trails will also take you to Quantum Field or Spittle Hill. This is one of the easiest areas to get up and get going unless you want to fit in a good hike.
If you want access to Cave Stream, take a 10 minute drive further north along 73 to park at the Cave Stream Park area. To access Flock Hill and Dry Valley, you need to drive 1 kilometre further from Cave Stream's parking area. There will be an obvious park sign. You will then need to take a bit of a hike to get where you need to go.
acesso
Caste Hill is in the Canterbury high country, approx. 90km northwest of Christchurch. Take 73 all the way into the Castle Hill region which from Christchurch takes about 1.5 hours. When you get to Castle Hill, there is a 20 car carpark (with toilet) on the left side (heading north) off the West Coast Rd (a few km south of Castle Hill Village). This will be marked with a sign making it obvious as the Castle Hill park.
When driving into Castle Hill, the villages in this area are very small. There is a petrol station in Springfield, however if you want decent food you will need to stock up at the grocery store in Darfield.
onde ficar
Castle Hill Village has some upscale accomodations. There are a few hostels/motels in Springfield. For camping, go to Cragieburn shelter about a 20 minutes drive further west on 73 past the Castle Hill car park.
1.3.5. Inland Canterbury 216 routes in Region
- Summary:
-
Escalada esportiva, Escalada trad e outros estilos
Lat / Long: -43.565490, 171.148156
1.3.6. Aoraki / Mount Cook 419 routes in Region
- Summary:
-
Boulder, Escalada em rocha e outros estilos
Lat / Long: -43.849715, 170.150520
1.3.7. Ohau 8 routes in Region
- Summary:
-
All Escalada trad
Lat / Long: -44.090008, 169.768295
1.3.8. South Canterbury 527 routes in Region
- Summary:
-
Boulder, Escalada esportiva e outros estilos
Lat / Long: -44.535401, 170.936125
1.3.9. Arthur's Pass 25 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Escalada trad
Lat / Long: -42.950981, 171.590628
sumário
acesso
Approximately 2 hour drive from Christchurch via SH73
onde ficar
CMC Kennedy Lodge - https://cmc.net.nz/kennedy-lodge/
NZAC Arthur's Pass Lodge - https://shop.alpineclub.org.nz/product/arthurs-pass-lodge/
1.4. Te Tai Poutini / West Coast 437 routes in Region
- Summary:
-
Escalada trad, Escalada esportiva e outros estilos
Lat / Long: -42.898916, 170.605983
1.4.1. Charleston 211 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Escalada trad
Lat / Long: -41.902143, 171.432196
sumário
Pretty gneiss climbing
descrição
Great info at: https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/charleston
acesso
Access Southern Cliffs via Constant Bay Track and the Northern Cliffs via the Cemetery or scrambling north along the coast from Joyce Bay.
1.4.2. Punakaiki 116 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: -42.103709, 171.366175
sumário
Lush rainforest with limestone outcrops
descrição
The Punakaiki area is one of the scenic gems of the West Coast and a must-see experience for all visitors. The wild coastline is covered with lush rainforest and dotted with graceful nikau palms. Route developers have recently been lured by the limestone outcrops jutting out of the forest and the area has seen a spate of recent development. Although there is plentiful rock, high rainfall has made the cliffs quite vegetated and dirty. There are also large areas of loose friable rock. This area will continue to grow and develop, but the limestone is not quite as bomber as Payne's Ford.
onde ficar
Punakaiki Village or Charleston Motor Camp.
1.4.3. Fox Glacier 23 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Escalada alpina, Escalada trad e Escalada em rocha
sumário
Alpine rock climbing on mostly solid rock. Adventurous and great alternatives if snow conditions are not fantastic
descrição
Routes easily acccessible from the Fox Glacier. Can camp on the glacier or if staying longer than a few days from Pioneer Hut.
acesso
Fly in via helicopter to Pioneer Hut from Fox township. Several heli services are available however Heliservices is your best chance. Try and grab a backflight and share with another team to make it cheaper. Approximately $800 to charter a flight in a Squirrel (total payload 480kg not including pilot) and $600 in a 500 (total payload 400kg not including pilot).
onde ficar
Pioneer Hut owned and maintained by New Zealand Alpine Club (NZAC). Hut fees can be paid online. Sleeps 16 however is done on a first come first served basis.
ética
Alpine playground so treat accordingly.
1.4.4. Franz Josef Glacier 24 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Escalada esportiva, Boulder e outros estilos
Lat / Long: -43.351364, 170.176576
1.4.5. Balfour Glacier 0 routes in Crag
1.4.6. Mount Aspiring National Park 38 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Escalada alpina
Lat / Long: -44.251547, 168.721190
descrição
Mount Aspiring
1.4.7. Pioneer hut 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Escalada alpina e Escalada trad
1.4.8. Turiwhate 14 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: -42.764583, 171.290042
- Leave no Trace practices to preserve the fragile alpine ecosystem
sumário
Westland’s only rock climbing area is alpine sport climbing, which fits with the rugged landscape. Clean, fine-grained granite soaked in the evening sun, with a little alpine vegetation to dry your fingers on.
descrição
Moderate routes from 14-23. Most routes are 15-20 meters long, with some 30 meter pitches.
acesso
Park at the Kawhaka Weir on the West Coast Cycle Trail. Walk or bike 5.5km up the cycle trail to an old moss covered road headed back North towards Campsite Creek. Follow this back over Campsite Creek to the second and most substantial clearing. Look for red track markers at the top of the clearing. These mark the beginning of the Sinclair Ridge Track. The track is marked and cleared to 1000 metres then traverses east to the ‘Stegosaurus Crag’. Your last water source for the climb is 10 minutes into the track, the next source is an obvious stream on the traverse to the crag.
The route to the head of Quartz Creek is lightly cairned through granite talas slopes and tussock.
onde ficar
There is camping on the ridge 100 meters above the Stegosaurus Crag. Small flat spots can be found amongst the rocky outcrops. Tread lightly on the alpine flora around the tarns and put the mahi into ‘Leave no Trace’ practices.
ética
Email keithjriley@gmail.com for further information
história
Bolting started in 2022, but the area had been scoped out for years of scrambling to assess the quality of the rock and if any routes could be developed.
This development has happened under the umbrella of the West Coast Alpine Club through a negotiated community agreement with the Department of Conservation and approval from Ngāti Waewae.
Part of the agreement requires any development work to happen under the approved safety plan and in accordance with the community agreement.
1.5. Ōtākou / Otago 3,242 routes in Region
- Summary:
-
Escalada esportiva, Boulder e outros estilos
Lat / Long: -45.299273, 169.735702
1.5.1. Bannockburn 23 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: -45.080818, 169.169798
sumário
Nice little north facing crag by Lake Dunstan.
descrição
The crag is warm during winter months as it catches the morning sun. Lots oof high quality sport routes.
Beware of the bees in the crack next to Chain Gang, they're friendly.
questões de acesso
Take first left after the Bannockburn bridge. After a few hundred meters, take the first track on left hand side and follow down towards the lake.
acesso
From car, follow Lake around towards the bridge. The crag is about 100m from carpark and easily visible.
1.5.2. Boat Ramp Crag 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: -44.940962, 169.286647
sumário
A small cliff consisting of high quality, water worn schist.
descrição
Due to erosion by (presumably) the Clutha River this crag has nice scoops and flakes which make for nice three dimensional climbing - not a lot of crimping to be found here. The routes are quite short 6 - 10m. The right hand end can work well for top roping/easier leading and the middle to left of the crag has some entertaining routes in the low 20s. Worth an hour or two of your time if you are driving SH8 and you want to get a climb in. The bolting is relatively modern and all routes have double bolt anchors with chains aside from Boat Ramp Traverse.
acesso
Access via the Bendigo picnic and camping area (Lake Dunstan) adjacent to SH8 approximately 15 minutes drive north of Cromwell. Drive down to the boat ramp (to the south?) and you can't miss the crag. Most routes can be accesses from the top of the crag.
história
Developed by Russell Braddock.
1.5.3. Ōtepoti / Dunedin 586 routes in Region
- Summary:
-
Escalada esportiva, Escalada trad e outros estilos
Lat / Long: -45.845368, 170.565550
1.5.4. Hulk Hogan Bouldering 78 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Lat / Long: -44.920025, 170.677196
1.5.5. Island Cliff Valley 62 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: -44.941661, 170.697203
1.5.6. Tāhuna / Queenstown 1,291 routes in Region
- Summary:
-
Escalada esportiva, Boulder e outros estilos
Lat / Long: -44.968173, 168.554938
1.5.7. Wānaka 1,116 routes in Region
- Summary:
-
Escalada esportiva, Boulder e Escalada trad
Lat / Long: -44.682772, 169.064675
1.5.8. Shaky Bridge 24 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: -45.251680, 169.402068
sumário
Shaky Bridge is an idyllic riverside crag located just out of the Alexandra township. Plenty of shade for any time of the day and very easy access.
descrição
There are bolted routes on the left and right sides of the gully. There is also a beginner lead wall: walk down to the end of the rock wall on the left gully, follow a trail left and head upwards into a rock cul-de-sac. There are 4 closely bolted routes on the easy slab, grades 9-12. The routes on the prominent face (left of beginner lead wall) are Ledgeline and Eligible.
acesso
From Alexandra, go over the Manuherikia River on Little Valley Road. Turn right down Graveyard Gully Road and again down Lookout Drive. Access just 200m along Lookout Drive down a pine tree-filled gully on the right.
1.5.9. Lake Dunstan Bluffs 0 routes in Area
descrição
Just south of Cairnmuir Gully on the side of Lake Dunstan, approximately 20 km from the Clyde Heritage Precinct.
questões de acesso
By track on the Lake Dunstan Cycle and Walking Trail. By boat either via rapid number 2393 on the Cromwell Clyde Highway or the boat ramp at McNutly Inlet, Cromwell. The Butchers Drive boat ramp is no longer reliable due to build up of sediment.
história
First developed by Russell Braddock, Mark Simmonds and others during the early 2000’s. There is an old fixed rope or two that are now well worn by the Central Otago sun. In 2021, Graham Smith provided the enthusiasm to rediscover the crag and repeat the routes along with the Cromwell crew, including the link up of two projects with Akira Umezawa.
1.5.10. Firewood Creek 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: -45.049757, 169.217218
1.5.11. Jetboat Boulders 7 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Lat / Long: -45.056443, 169.131320
descrição
2 boulders located on the side of the Kawarau River. Very unique rock for the area. An excellent water worn schist boulder with skin friendly crimps and slopers, and a slightly sharper boulder about 30m further down the path toward Cromwell.
acesso
Opposite the fruit stall is a gravel access road blocked by the Jetboat gate. There is a small layby about 50m past the gravel road toward Queenstown. The boulder is located along a public path at bottom of gravel road. Do not park blocking road / gate. Park down in the layby.
1.5.12. The Gully 36 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Lat / Long: -44.933497, 169.299517
descrição
An old bouldering area lost to time that has recently undergone big clean up and re-development. Still has a lot of potential.
The area is surrounded by Poplar trees. White Poplar is a very soft wood that is prone to easily breaking, falling over and growing out of control. Poplar is also an invasive species, so a lot of old dead trees were cleared to make these walls accessible and safe. Don't be surprised to turn up and find a new tree has toppled over somewhere. That being said, most of the currently established walls should now be relatively clear from old trees.
The area is water worn schist, providing some very interesting 3 dimensional climbing. Being schist, the rock is still prone to breaking holds. We have tried to test rock integrity on the currently established lines, but its entirely possible that holds can and will still break, particularly small footholds. Don't let that deter you though, the rock quality is some of the better in the area.
Some grades have slightly changed since first ascents, after holds have broken off, or new holds have been found, so take the grades with a grain of salt until the area gets some more traffic.
As with all established areas, please be clean and tidy, don't leave trash etc etc.
acesso
Located along the Tarras-cromwell Rd, at roughly 1175-1390 State Highway 8. Pull into the Rocky Point carpark and park next to the poplar trees. Follow the semi cleared path to the boulders. Gets very muddy after rain.
1.5.13. Canyon Creek 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Escalada alpina
Lat / Long: -44.193906, 169.582049
sumário
Alpine area popular with hikers. Relativley easy access due to Birchwood road and DOC track and beautiful alpine lake for swimming
acesso
Drive up Birchwood Road (unsealed road, some clearance required towards the end) for an hour to trail head. Well maintained DOC track up to Canyon Creek
onde ficar
Camp
1.6. Murihiku / Southland 822 routes in Region
- Summary:
-
Escalada em rocha, Escalada esportiva e outros estilos
Lat / Long: -45.677674, 167.842096
1.6.1. Bluff 17 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Escalada trad e Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: -46.624217, 168.328199
sumário
Solid crimps, some good cracks, hand jams, and good solid jugs.
descrição
Probably the only worthwhile reason to visit Bluff. The crag is located at 'Lookout Point', In the location is some excellent rock that is extremely durable and home to a BBC (Bluffs Big Chimney). It has approximately 17 routes graded from 12-24;
questões de acesso
No issues related to access, just be careful when decending to the crag as it can be slippery on occasion.
acesso
Walk either from the top of Bluff Hill or Stirling Point and follow the track to Lookout Point. Once at the seaside you should notice a picnic table and a visible grassy track down the side of the cliff face. Follow this and you'll reach the crag.
onde ficar
Don't stay in Bluff, just a place to visit.
história
A semi-new crag. Developed in the last 5 years. Good for the local climbers here that don't want to commute to limestone slab.
1.6.2. Castledowns 75 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Escalada esportiva
Lat / Long: -45.808550, 168.286325
sumário
Castledowns is an 'out of the way' limestone crag located near Mossburn/Dipton. If passing through to Fiordland, it is defiantly worth a visit.
descrição
Routes vary from long arete climbs to pocketed headwalls. The climbing style here is slightly hard, so bring an array of techniques. It is a common saying amongst southerners that a climb at Castledowns may be a 16 here, but would be graded an 18 in Wanaka. Generally, all climbs are fairly equipped. At the time of writing, new route development is happening and work is being done to repair anchors and bolts. Generally, all that is needed is a sport rack, though there is the odd climb that requires a nut.
Climbers have been visiting this crag since the early '70s, and in the 90s when the use of bolting became widespread the crag saw large amounts of development. The development has continued to happen with the likes of Andy MacFarlane, Jo Kippax, Ivan Vostinar, John and Ethan Dale, and John Grogan.
questões de acesso
Please be mindful of livestock that occasionally roams the area. Also, after a bit of rain, it is advised to bring a pair of gumboots or shoes you don't mind getting wet as the base of the cliffs can hold a bit of seepage.
acesso
Located between Dipton and Mossburn on the Dipton Castle Rock Road. Park at a pullout on the side of the road, you'll notice a small farm gate that will take you through the fence.
onde ficar
The Mossburn Pub is a great place to stay, have a bite to eat, and chat about climbing.
1.6.3. Colac Bay 64 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Boulder, Escalada trad e Escalada em rocha
Lat / Long: -46.360567, 167.920956
sumário
The bouldeering in summer is actually surprisingly great! The area hosts plenty of routes ranging up to a awesome V5 traverse.
descrição
Colac Bay is a trad climbing location about 45 minutes out of Invercargill along the southern coast. It host numereous trad routes up to grades 24, whilst the easiest being below 15. The bouldeering here is also stellar, hosting over 30+ bouldeering problems (Just watch out for the shags taking fire with their dung into your shoes... It happens...).
questões de acesso
Please don't disturb stock and carry in and out rubbish. Also tidal dependant.
acesso
Drive down the the Tihaka beach track on the eastern end of Colac Bay, there you will find a walking track along the south coast to the crags, this takes about 15 minutes (Don't get fooled by the anchor about 2-3 mniutes in). The first obvious wall is the octopus wall, second cove over from this is the crayfish wall, and the next cove over is ponamu cove.
onde ficar
Free camping on the western end of colac bay.
história
Climbers from Invercargill have being climbinhg here a long time.
1.6.4. Curio Bay 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
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All Escalada trad
Lat / Long: -46.663454, 169.105734
descrição
The routes begin off a wave-cut platform, broad but exposed to the Southern Ocean - a small swell and lower half of the tide are essentials for most routes. Extremely short (6 - 10m), and with variable rock quality, they nonetheless offer quality jams, off-widths and chimneys; not many places in the South Island offer this density of wide cracks!
questões de acesso
Beware large sets, rising tide and rouge waves. Align your visit with the lower half of the tide. Avoid this crag above half tide, especially during large swells!
acesso
ccess: The climbs are on the back (ocean) side of the hill and headland dominating Porpoise Bay and the Curio Bay campground. Walk around the wave cut platform from the carpark facing the ocean.
1.6.5. Fiordland 647 routes in Region
- Summary:
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Escalada em rocha, Escalada esportiva e outros estilos
Lat / Long: -45.403501, 167.298615
1.6.6. Gable Rock 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
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Escalada esportiva e Escalada trad
Lat / Long: -45.875916, 168.412270
descrição
!!! Hopefully getting more info on this Crag from the originators !!!
NO DOGS. Private land, leave gates as found, and take extreme care during lambing season. Cayford’s Track worth doing while in the area (1hr walk)
For information/status please contact: http://www.milliganseeds.co.nz/ (Landowner)
acesso
From Dipton drive up Spirit Burn Rd, park at Cayford’s Track carpark, walk up to cliff via farm track. 20-30min walk.
história
TBA