Vias em North America para uma graduação selecionada

Climbs the easternmost of the three major south buttresses of Combatant above the col. Approached via a bench at the elevation of the col (the Shelf)

Very steep for its grade. The second route on the Power wall. Very asthetic climbing & great rock on this one!

Inicio técnico, con salida a desplome y cazuelas , comparte seccion superior con papanicolau

Descend the pocket glacier to the base of the southeast buttress. Climb this buttress, through sandy broken terrain and with poor protection in places in the first ~75m. Above this, the rock improves up a steep yellow slab to a small gendarme. Descend into the notch and climb easier ground above to the summit.

Descend as per the West Ridge (down that route.)

Goes to bypass anchor.

Climb the black, lichen-covered depression in the south face, following corner systems to the east ridge, then to the summit.

3rd route from right to left.follow the overhanging crack diedral into roof and gigantic tufas.

First anchor goes up to 28 meter, extension goes another 12 meters.

First anchor name: un mundo feliz. Extension name: fuera de la realidad.

80 m rope.

Open Project.

Long and well bolted route.

First bolt line to the right of Pump o Rama. The rating can change doe to breaking of holds. Make certain all anchor bolts are connected.The grade on this climb has changed several times.

This is the finest multipitch free-climb of its grade in the Southeast. If you want sustained climbing with big air and on perfect granite, this is the route for you. The Glass Menagerie is the obvious overhanging line up the center of the North Face of Looking Glass. It is equally good as an aid climb, as it is a free climb. Its cruxes are well protected and the rock is almost always stellar. Please be courteous to other parties if you are trying to work out the free moves. This route gets plenty of traffic and you will likely be sharing the route with other climbers if you try it during peak season.

1. (5.11c or 5.8 C1) Start climbing up the easy face towards the obvious shallow right facing corner. You will eventually be faced with some 5.11 moves on great rock with mostly bolts for pro. You will then encounter a funky steep section that is protected with some pretty rusty bolts and sort of rotten granite. This is short lived and eventually you will traverse out far right on a ledge system (5.8? rotten) that will take you to a bolted belay. Two nice bolts and an angle for the belay. If you are hauling make sure you put your haulbag in the proper location for takeoff on the deck.

2. (5.12+ or C1) This is one fine pitch of climbing. Start cranking hard moves right off the belay eventually scoring a nice kneebar rest under a shallow roof. Get ready for some thin face. Climb out past the roof and up past several bolts onto the beautiful face and end up finishing by traversing onto the exposed face placing a few cams to gain a nice little ledge belay below a flaring corner with a splitter crack in the back. Two bomber bolts will make your belay.

3. (5.11a or C1) After a little rest, rack up with some cams and stoppers for this pitch. You will have a hard time with this one if you don't like rattly fingers. Climb a short crack in a left facing corner with great pro to a decent ledge with at least two bomber bolts for your anchor.

4. (5.13 or C2) This is the money pitch. Get amped right off the bat because you will be loving the climbing here. Make some face moves off the belay. Then break out left through the improbable looking roof. You will encounter jugs, laybacks, and crimps out of this masterpiece. Keep cool for the first thirty feet off the belay. There is big air with bolts for pro and only 5.12 moves till you reach the lip of the roof. It suits the route that the hardest move is at the steepest part of the whole wall. Try and get a breather before you pull the crux. There are good bolts in between the bad ones for the whole roof. Once at the lip, pull a pretty dang hard boulder problem (V6?) and gain a thin lichen covered face. This face is about 5.10+, but it only has two bolts for pro. They are painted black so if you don't see them just keep lookin. Once you've pulled through the face you will find a two bolt belay for your anchor.

5. (5.10+ PG 13) This pitch is only part of the free route. The aid line went up and left out of the roof, while the free variation goes up straight past the two bolts described in the previous pitch. Down climb down and left off the belay with only one bolt for pro. You may be able to get some small wires or aliens in as well. You will be angling down and left at about 7 o'clock off the belay. There was a fixed runner off the bolt when we were up there. This pitch will be sort of scary for the leader but terrifying for the second, as he will actually be doing the lead climbing. You will encounter a 2-bolt belay about twenty feet above the lip of the roof proper here.

6. (5.10c or C2) You can link pitch 5 and 6 and save your second from doing the heinous down climb of pitch five with a semi-top rope. Either way you do it you will climb a splitter hand crack up and eventually gain a fixed nut anchor at a little roof. Traverse out left a few feet to regain the crack (crux 11.c?). Climb the hand crack that will turn into a reasonable off width that overhangs slightly and ends with a slabby right leaning finish to gain yet another two bolt anchor.

7. (5.9+ or 5.8, C1) Climb up off the belay pulling through some thin hands past a bulge and then on to finish the crack up on a slab. You will eventually run out of crack and slab climb up to the top on easy terrain which can be wet if it has rained recently.

Location North Face of Looking Glass. Hike in from the obvious trailhead at the parking area heading south towards the North Face. It will be the first route you come to once at the wall.

It is possible to retreat from any pitch but you may have to leave some biners on the raw bolts. It is best to walk west towards the Nose and rappel it to get off the wall.

(Sit Start) Comienza en regletas invertidas bastante pequeñas, boulder de pasos explosivos

Voie courte sur une proue déversante vers la droite. Video https://youtu.be/Ya9uhdEOkb4

Sustained face climbing on mostly good holds with a distinct crux midway.

4 bolts. climb up to the overhanging chunk of rock, pull some difficult moves up to a good ledge and continue up through easier climbing. Varitaon 12a — start traversing from shore, and work your way into the route. Difficulty varies depending on water level, with higher water level turns into a pump fest pulling through to the second bolt.

Relais équipé

Bolted line between Among the Stars and Aphrodite. Thin and technical down low, easing toward the top.

Begins off of the ledge atop Hollow Flake, Zamboni Man and Sprout Route. Follows the line of bolts to climber's right of the tree. Low crux leads to sustained and enjoyable friction.

un diesecito largo, el crux esta a la mitad es un paso de izquierda a derecha. preferentemente cuerda de 70 metros

2 pitch

Actually a top rope route.

Empieza en la Ruta de Acceso y se desvía a la izquierda de Paroxismo.

Starts to the left of the tree.

Shares the first 2 bolts with Sonambulismo and continues straight through the right yellow stripe.

Increíble ruta de equilibrio y crimpeo. Inicia en una placa con movimientos muy técnicos y de fuerza de dedos. Luego se va a un slab que no afloja. La parte dura termina en una salida a una panza en la que hay que confiarle a los pies.

Short and hard of very good quality. Only one ascent so far at the time, july2019. Grade might be harder than reality.

Starting on technical extasy for a few moves then move right to smaller holds and line of bolts.

just left of Pieta de roma, short and powerful. Back in those days this was done without using holds from Pieta de roma. Perfectly alright if you want to use them!

After the 4th bolt of The Beast, step right to the anchors of True Grit.

for beta video see here

https://youtu.be/zMenaaKCoOo

Une récente addition difficile au site. Une voie courte mais agressive qui implique quelques longs mouvements sur des crimps minces. Des doigts en titane pourrait être utile!

Start down and right of the first bolt and slowly trend left. Clip the big chain on the roof, which guards the first crux, but a few more boulder problems await you before the anchors.

The route between the 2 crack features of Professional Strength and Industrial Strength. Mandatory long stick clip to start. Bouldery micro crimping on gently overhanging stone. Very reminiscent of Petrifying Wall style pulldowns in Squampton. New school grade creep might bring up the rating that’s written but in that context the rating here is correct.

Extension of Waste Not Want Not, continuing for 5 bolts up a beautiful steep blue headwall.

Starts on The mothership and links into Bushido.

Finger crack through roof, steep slabs above

Bulder en la misma piedra que big rip y dopamina, empieza a la izquierda de dopamina en dos agarres muy malos y casi sin pies, vas a un agarre lejano pero muy bueno

Comienzas en el agarre evidente y haces travesía a la izquierda por agarres chiquitos

Stand start bajo el techo en dos agarres grandes. Vas a chiquitos para salir al riel grande en la orilla del techo. De ahí vas en línea vertical sobre el riel.

first opened boulder at Mantarraya, going left with side-crimps and stick the swing at the lip

Empiezas con dos laterales y pies a la izquierda y un movimiento explosivo a un agarre grande. Continúa con movimientos duros de compresión.

Inicias sentado en en extremo izquierdo de la cara desplomada del bloque. De ahí te levantas hacia las regletas y las sigues hacia la derecha para salir por el centro de la cara desplomada.

Empiezas sentado en un agarre grande y subes por “La Mollera”.