Vias em Ofoten para uma graduação selecionada

Up directly to the hand crack in the flake, then traverse left under the roof and up on the grassy ledge

Directly up to the large ledge, then directly through the techy slab

Start steeply right of flakes then trend left to arete and finish up slab to DBB

Deceptive slab on west facing wall. Anchor draws will need retrieving via walkdown

Mixed route

1. 5 pitches of easy terrain past ledges with a lot of debris.

2. .

3. .

4. .

5. .

6. Follows an obvious RF dihedral for 3 pitches to it´s end.

7. .

8. .

9. The crux 55-meter pitch leads up & right into run-out terrain, where it’s tricky to find the path of least resistance.

10. A short pitch to a good ledge. 10m. A possible bivy site.

11. A sequence that involves changing corners to the right is followed by climbing left to the next stance.

12. Steep but well protected climbing.

13. The angle eases off slightly, starting left then back right & towards the right-hand side of a pillar. A chimney behind the pillar leads to the summit.

Topo here

DBB

The long groove to the right of Top of Europe. Small nuts needed for the start.

Trends right then back into Peanøttforbundet Topo here

Description & topo here

Fun stemming/finger crack up the dihedral.

To access this route, follow the ledge to its end untill an obvious V shaped edge marks the route's topout. Abseil in off a tree.

A fjord to the summit adventure, reported to have been climbed in a day (12 hours!) The route begins left of the large groove defining the West Face with 20 or so easy slab pitches before another 10 or so steeper pitches lead to the West False Summit (33 pitches total). From here, continue to the summit via Vestveggen (20 pitches).

Image here:

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Vegard With Stennes (@vegard.with)

The striking West ridge is the obvious path to the summit from Vestveggen. The route starts below the obvious wide crack, which was first climbed in 1937 (& an amazing achievement for the era).

1. Start up the dihedral, when the holds disappear traverse left into the wide & sustained crack. Big cams useful (1x #2, #3 & 4#).

2. and

3. Easier climbing leads to the base of the next steep crack.

4. Climb the finger crack in the middle of the wall, after 15m traverse to some balancey climbing on the arete. The crack in the main corner is harder (N6 for the wide crack, N7- for the thin corner crack).

5. and

6. Easier cracks and corners lead to a rightwards exit through a hole & up to the summit block

Some images here

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Fanny Cassandra Victorin (@fannyvictorin)

Trends left towards a large flake after a shared start with Kongelosjen Direkte. Rarely climbed

The direct start to Sydpillaren tackles the lower slabs up to Kongelosjen. Grades are similar but some sections are often wet &/or harder to protect.

Originally done in 17, listed as 9 pitches in the guide.

Long route with the occasional bolt to the left of sydpillaren. Starts 30m right from the of highest point on Kongelosjen ledges & 100/150m past the start of Sydpillaren.

1. Start up the slab then follow the obvious easy system to a ledge.

2. More easy slabs to a ledge.

3. More straightforward cruising. Belay at the base of the right leaning corner.

4. Climb RF corner up to the first big ledge system.

5. Walk left to belay on a small ledge below the next groove system

6. Follow the grooves to belay at the base of the bombay chimney.

7. Rock, paper scissors for carrying the pack then up the chimney to a ledge.

8. Straight forward cracks

9. Up the finger crack until an awkward move left is needed. Continuing up this groove leads to the 2nd Amfi (Where it´s possible to retreat). Set your belay below 40m pillar with twin grooves.

10. Climb the mini roof to a small ledge.

11. Follow the crack, when it ends step left to belay at a good stance below the RF groove

12. The RF groove (crux) leads up to an exposed stance.

13. Down climb from the belay then traverse out right to access the gully. Follow this to the summit.

Topo and description here-

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Andreas Widlund