Vias em Oceania para uma graduação selecionada

The mega extension to Utopia. very Athletic, über pumper to the end.... a full 80m rope gets you down to the ground, or rethread at first anchors.

A non existent route.

Firetail

Start off the pillar below WK. Grunt up the initial off-width with a shaky cam keeping things sane. A line of bolts leads the way up this route with stunning positions and insanely classy movement throughout. The top section is quite run out, and very thin.

Power through the roof to the lip. The section after the roof was originally done by deviating R into the Low Down, then doing it's crux before continuing straight up. Has since been straightened out.

Start: R of Procol is a line of bolts through the ceiling.

Starts as per PT moving right at undercling flake. Moves into PD for 10m then weaves up incredible thin face.

Start up Very Anxious then before joining Anxiety Neurosis move L under the roof and blast through the roof and up the overhanging wall above staying between Kama Sutra and AN. Finish at AN p1 loweroffs or continue up any pitch above to the summit. FA early noughties IIRC ... clarification welcome.

Climb all of 'Jet Lag' (via the original direct start) then launch onwards into a final boulder problem above the chains.

Start: Start as for JL.

Looks like 36! Originally led on preplaced gear, repeated placing the gear by Gareth Llewellin - a pretty bold lead. Start a short way uphill from the back of the D Minor pinnacle, and just downhill from the boulder choke. Glassy bulging seam. Rack: Mostly #1 RPs.

Direct start to Moving Pictures past a rusty bolt or two.

Link Required into Requited.

The master of combinations and permutations digs up another classic. This one links the "easy" bits of the two original routes.

Start as for Punks in the Gym, finish as for Pretty in Punk.

Absolutely mind bending trad line. One of the great routes of this genre in Australia and in a spectacular location. Access by an easy paddle from Brooklyn. First ascent done by Johnathon Clearwater on pre-placed gear. First ascent with all gear placed on lead by Simon Bischoff 2018 at grade 30.

The prime line hereabouts. All the hard bit of India then step L and up the middle of the steep wall through the top roof to lower offs.

Not his finest addition. Brutally hard undercling moves and very, very rarely repeated. Start as for Nose Job then bust left.

After the long years of Steve and others being spat off before Dave cleaned it up, it's apt that this genus includes the Spitting Cobra! The strongest line on all Taipan, this is the left-facing arete bounding the right side of the massive scooped out area right of Serpentine. It is more closely bolted than most other Taipan routes, although they're getting a bit the worse for wear. The whole thing can be worked from the ground using a 70m rope (but only just!). Start as for Serpentine.

1. 25m (27) Gain the arete and follow it, mostly sub-25 but with an insecure dyno past the 2nd bolt. Consider a cam before the (rusty) 1st bolt, not least to avoid knackering yourself if you come off the tricky next moves.

2. 15m (30) Continue up the arete with much better climbing. Unfortunately it gets increasingly guano-stained up high, so take a brush, but you can avoid the worst/highest section of guano by moving left before gaining the anchor (37m rap).

The "crazy linkup" of Lord of the Rings into Slinkin' Leopard.

1. 20m (30) An 8m direct variant to Venom pitch 1. As for Venom for 12m until established on the L side of the groove. Where Venom traverses R, continue direct up the L side of the groove past 2 RBs to rejoin Venom at the lower-off.

2. 20m (27) As for Venom pitch 2 until past the bulge and into the cave. Then take the L arete of the cave/scoop to lower off (80m rope recommended). Rebolted 2017. This pitch is more easily approached via Mr Que.

The obvious crack splitting the wall 5m left of Simply the Best.

Probably the best trad climb in Tasmania.

At the very top of The Gonk is a spell binding corner. From the top of The Gonk rappel from a double bolt belay onto a ledge which is the top of The Life of Meaning. The crux is well protected by cams and the second half of the route is sparsely protected with small wires and potentially ball nuts if you have them.

Hard grit 'Grampians' style. Effectively it is a grade 30 solo. Repeated by UK grit master Ben Heason and confirmed at English E8 6c.

Start: Climbs the northern arete of the large boulder (Legolands bouldering area) which is directly opposite 'The Territorial Imperative'.

Three great pitches, varying in style. Start 3 metres right of The Birdcage.

1. 25m (24) A little sparsely bolted but well within the capabilities of anyone up for the next pitch. Trend right following 5 rings to the belay.

2. 12m (30) Very thin on beautiful rock. Up three bolts then right past another two, ignore the direct finish unless you are after a mighty challenge. Onto the grey rock and into belay cave.

3. 20m (23) Lovely way to finish it off. Follow rings up headwall and over the top to rap chain.

Elliot

An impressive effort – Malcolm, as is his want, made sure each piece of gear (except the fixed piton) was placed on lead. A few metres down left of the start of The Land that Time Forgot, there is a major gully. Follow the right side of this gully uphill, initially past a couple of sports routes (Valley of Fear and Jurassic Adventures) and onward about another 50m to a striking diagonal overhanging crack/seam. Follow the relentlessly overhanging pocketed seam; trad gear with one fixed pin to a double bolt anchor.

A very impressive line blasting out the biggest part of this massive overhang, on beautiful red stone. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start as for Nomads.

Start as for Nomads but stay on the hanging arete/nose, then follow the line of holds rightwards and outwards forever.

Un-repeated? Short, smooth and hard.

Start: The right hand hanging corner from the terrace above 'Gunboat Diplomacy' and 20m left of 'Guinea Pig Flake'.

The inverted squeeze chimney / bum-crack above the Camping Cave. Starting at the back of the cave, chimney up, invert from a fist jam, stick your feet up there and shuffle upside down to lip. Cut loose, work around lip, then cruise up offwidth vertical section. Has been done in various ways using the full range of offwidth techniques, needs a few 5 & 6 cams for roof.

Hardest climb listed at Tarana, maybe the hardest "wide" climb in Aus?

A popular steep powerful flake and pocket climb. One of the first routes of this style done in the Grampians. The climb eases up considerably in the upper half.

Start: Start 15m left of 'Sandinista' at the well chalked flake crack.

One of the best all trad lines in Australia. Brilliant pocketed corner on the best rock anywhere and an inspiration for all hard climbers. This was the first grade 30 in Australia done outside of Arapiles.

Start: The superb hanging corner about 15m right of 'Sandinista'. It finishes at the same point as 'Sandinista'. Gain access to the corner by stepping in from the ledge to the right.

Starts near dead tree, below small bulge. Climbs under bulge then to the left, above it, and on up. Rock is very fragile, wear a helmet! Could be harder than 30?!

Start right of Sceaming for some Mad roof climbing, join into 4 metres for the finish.

Start up Millennium Madness then continue straight up the thin seam. Head right through the roof and headwall.

Execellent steep climbing, with an awesomely body powerful crux, and all out dyno to finish it off! this route was bolted after work in summer and has some great memories attached to it! 5 meters right of bloodshot , around the corner. batman to the first bolt and go!! Back jump to clean

Climb Bogus to the second kneebar (6th bolt). From here, downclimb left to the pigeon perch, go up one bolt, then traverse hard left across Kaz's to join Gorilla Grip at its 5th bolt, then finish as for that route.

One of the best routes at Departures. Another of Bell's classic 30's.

After the tricky and hard start good holds lead to a mid height rest where this little number steps up a notch. A couple thin moves lead to the last jug before the long and sustained top section where good hard moves and poor feet will have you screaming to the top of the wall.

The king line for this crag, non stop intense climbing from the ground to the anchors.

This is the left arete of the awesome hanging wall. Climb from the ground to a sustained boulder problem past the last 2 bolts.

Climb the first six bolts of Ristretto to the letterbox slot just above a small rooflet. Moves to the left and then straight up the wall between Ristretto and Brummel Hook. Make like a bird through the roof and continue on to finish as per Brummel Hook.

Climb Bogus to the 'boobs' at the 8th bolt. Instead of angling up and left, go up and right to finish at the Hauser anchor.

Right hand finish, maybe slightly harder.

The 70 degree overhung madness that rears above the walking track. One of the best steep routes in Australia.

Amazingly this was the first route to be equipped at Coolum (2 bolts); it was then extended another 2 bolts and attempted by various suitors over the next 15 years. In early 2008, Adam Donaghue refreshed the hardware & added two extensions, beginning both from a batman start on the U-bolt (Ground Control 28 going L and Major Tom 30 going straight up). Lee linked up the boulder problem start with Major Tom and Evil Wears No Pants was reborn as one of Queensland's 'King Lines'!

Roof double dyno extension of Ristretto. Do Ristretto, dyno through the roof then keep on truckin' up the face into the big block and break. Continue up to join into the last few metres of Brummel Hook. Full value.

Start as for Bogus, then above the 4th bolt traverse right, then down across Enigma to the 'hanging slab' feature. From here, diagonal up and right to finish at the Wilhelm anchors.

Same start as Entrée but go direct. When the route steepens, the hard climbing begins! (skip dogging bolts on redpoint). To some jugs. Then go and get it. A very nice and sharp hold. Head out L to reach the chains. Come Get Me!

Fantastic climbing on solid rock with exceptional moves. Start at the same point as Taking Care of Business and head right onto a small shelf – slightly tricky. Then head directly up into the obvious feature, semi-dangerous clip (ground fall potential). This is followed by some tricky moves to a cruxy dead point and easier head wall.

There is a bolt under the lip over the right side to protect the start.

A visionary route by Frey Yule and a brilliant gift to Coolum crag – thank you Frey for all your great routes at the cave!

Another absorbing steep wall on excellent rock. Julian Saunders attempted this route direct with a huge sideways dyno (thus removing his nipples!). Eventually Nathan solved the climb by bailing around this dyno crux by a big traverse right.

What a thrilling route! Start as for EWNP, traverse slightly right at the second bolt, then ascend past 3 new bolts before re-joining EWNP. This avoids the no hands rest on EWNP, resulting in a more sustained route of continuous climbing.

Water polished granite. Climb Me. This gem of a climb is a must for people who like climbing good routes. A hard boulder to get to the 4th draw will keep the masses away, and the mantel at the top will keep the boulderers crying. Good conditions help.

See http://www.verticallifemag.com.au/2018/03/new-hard-route-in-waa-gorge/

Established after a tip-off from Jake the snake Bresnehan. "Named in honour of a great man, and possibly the best climb on the wall". Given 31 originally but has quickly been knocked down a grade. Start as for Mr J. Up most of Mr J p1 then, instead of going diagonally left past the last bolt to the cave, continue directly up. The crimpy orange wall has 4 more bolts and takes you about 4m R of Mr J p2, right to the top. A 70m rope can lower off the last bolt to the ledge - just! It's only a sport route if, like most grade 30 climbers, you skip the trad gear on Mr J.

Shared start. If you are cursed with damp and clammy skin, either use the secret German potion (Antihydral cream) or wait for a cold day to tackle a steep first half that leads to a thin crux on the headwall.

Climb Basic Instinct to the first ledge. Clip third bolt with long sling then climb up a few moves before traversing directly L out of BI along line of pockets and up to major ledge. Marble rock above this before encountering the bulge. Jetpack through this but keep some in the tank for the technical headwall up proud orange streak.

Climbs Zigzagonal to the upper crux at the 3rd last bolt then head left for the last bolt of The Elephant Man finishing at its anchor. 70m rope is NOT enough to lower off the anchor, but is ok from last bolt. You also need to clip back in on the way down or else you'll end up stranded a long way out above the lower cliff.

Two carrot bolts protect the face. Would be an amazing boulder/solo, but has not been done yet.

start standing in front of the tree then head slightly right and upwards to some punchy and super rad climbing

Start as for Comin' at ya Pundi, through initial crux, then out left past a hanger under roof to finish up the final moves of El Maco.

A popular and sustained climb. Low first crux and sustained top half, a little slice of Nowra.

At current the hardest steepest line up one of the most continuous pieces of overhanging rock anywhere in the Bluies. Follows the first 1.5 pitches of Stiletto before breaking off right and forging a path straight up the looming sea of orange. The bolting is quite spaced the whole way but generally safe, if scary, intimidating, all too much etc etc. Usual multi pitch gear for this one. Around 15 draws including some 30cm ones. Bring a couple of long (120cm) slings to sling a tree for the second last belay.

1. 40m (26) As for Stiletto. Start on the pillar and slap your way up the blunt arete to the belay. Careful getting to the second and third bolts.

2. 40m (26) Left from belay then up through some bouldery moves to more moderate climbing. Below the big roof break off right from Stiletto and follow the bolts to boulder with difficulty around said roof. Easily up right to comfy ledge belay.

3. 30m (24) Go left from the belay and up onto beautiful water-washed slab. Amazing rock and holds on this pitch that just builds and builds and builds! Classic! Hanging triple bolt belay under roof.

4. 25m (29) Where the steepness begins. Right off belay and straight into the business. There are a few cruxes on this pitch to keep you going, including the gate keeper last move, and a few run-outs to get the heart rate up! Hanging belay under roof at triple bolts.

5. 20m (30) Off right from belay and out roof via a hard boulder on the lip and a scary block with a lotttttt of glue behind it. Up a few more moves and then the dyno. Continue up excitingly to belay on ledge.

6. 20m (26) Straight up off belay through some hard moves. Keep some juice in the tank for this pitch. It's not over until it's over. Up easy climbing to big ledge. Bring a couple of long slings to make a belay up on the ledge.

7. 35m (10) Head off left along the ledge. Sling a tree and clip a couple of bolts to take you up to top belay of Red Edge, Stiletto etc.

Have fun!

Start to the right of the black streak, right of Let There Be Linkups. Upon attaining the pockets about halfway up the wall, move left then back right to the Attack Mode anchor.

Pretty rad! Just to the left of Chasing Stars

A short boulder problem above and left of Stop Gear anchors.

Link 'Monkey' Direct into Koala

Start as for Attack Mode. Ascend to the midway pockets, and traverse left to the Nosferatu anchor.

PYP into second pitch of Troglodyte, continuing into the end of COH

A great line that was strangely one of the last routes added. Seems so obvious now.

Start: Start 5m L of 'Desert Rose'.

Excellent continuous climbing that pushes a direct line up the centre of the South Wall.

The first 4 pitches of this route makes for a straight forward sports climb that is easy to get off in 2 raps if climbing with double ropes. Sport bolted over 6 long days.

1. (24) 25m Start as for ‘Andrews Arête’, hard start moves. (21 if you pull the first two bolts)

2. (21) 40m Continue up following the Siblings bolts until a small corner with a sapling and 'Lucky' bolt hangers. Follow bolts up and right to a bolt belay in pod.

3. (19) 30m Straight up the blunt arête to the green ledge, traverse right 5m to roomy belay with bolts.

4. (24) 25m Great face climbing to a hanging belay.

5. (26) 50m Up right on big holds to a thin punchy crux then continue up joining ‘Overture to the Sun’ briefly and a long runout on easy climbing to belay at the base of the orange wall to the right of the Siblings belay. Chain belay.

6. (30) 30m Orange headwall. Climb the blunt arête with great holds and follow bolts to a semi hanging belay.

7. (27) 30m Exposure at its best, continue up and pull through committing lip (crux) then up on good hold to finish at chain. Walk back to the car park up the hill.

The extension of Short Kraken.

An epic line that follows The Red into Roast Lobster Mornay all the way to the top of the cave.

Up the corner with difficulty.

Powerful thin climbing through the bulges

Unrelenting route up the sparsely featured steep wall. Starts off beautiful flowstone pedestal growing at the base of the wall with nice looking plant growing out of the wall just left of the line.

First route to start on right side of cave. Scamper around blunt arete to start, trending up and right toward lava rock roof. Funky moves through roof to good rest then gear up for the crux through step prow. It might be the second time you go feet first on this climb. Hard for the grade.

A grade 30 slab. Does anything more need to be said?

Climbs the right arete of the main face in its entirety. Reportedly quite nails.