Ajuda

North face

  • Contexto da graduação: POL
  • Fotos: 1
  • Ascensões: 13

Sazonalidade

J
F
M
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J
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S
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D

Sumário

More inclined face that hosts some easier as well as hard climbs.

Questões de acesso herdado de Dolina Rybiego Potoku

It is recommend to reserve parking at Palenica Białczańska in advance.

Acesso

From Morskie Oko in 1-2h along yellow and red trail. Below Mnich, leave red trail for obvious unmarked trail towards the north face.

Ética herdado de Tatry Polskie

Usual ethic of alpine climbing and mountaineering.

Vias

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Grade Via
1 6 40m
2 6+ 35m
3 6+/7- 25m

Route ends up at Górne Półki Mnichowe (the Upper Mnich Ledges). From this point you can go down along normal route or climb to the top with Wacław Spituje or other route.

FA: M. Tertelis, M. Pawelczyk-Tertelis & W. Wenta

Starts at Górne Półki Mnichowe. One bolted pitch to the summit of Mnich.

FA: M. Tertelis & W. Wenta

1 8-
2 7+
3 6+
4 7+

Bolted belays.

FA: Filip Adamsbaum & Maciej Tertelis, 1997

1 5
2 4+
3 4
4 4

Bolted belays, otherwise trad. After second pitch it connects to route Klasyczna. Nice cracks, compact rock.

FA: adeusz Orłowski, Juliusz Żuławski J. Wawrzyniec Żuławski, Juliusz Żuławski i J. Wawrzyniec Żuławski, Juliusz Żuławski & J. Wawrzyniec Żuławski, 1948

1 4 50m
2 5+ 20m
3 6+ 25m
4 6+ 45m

FA: A. Gładki & M. Tertelis, 2003

1 3+ 25m
2 4+ 35m
3 4 30m
4 4 40m

Start of the route is located on small horizontal plate, close to eye-catching dihedral/corner, equipped with single bolt for belayer. Due to high density of the routes on Mnich ensure yourself that you're on the right route.

  1. 25 m III+, straight up till you will reach anchor

  2. 35 m IV+, key pitch of the route, on the beginning straight up, following the corner and then transition to the right, then up till you reach easy terrain and anchor. Harder part/transition is well equipped with old hooks.

  3. 30 m IV, starting with short traverse to the right and then straight up. Longer sling for anchor might be helpful on the top of this pitch.

  4. 40 m IV, last pitch is quite obvious way up, watch for the rope drag, in general it's better to place here less gear, especially in easy part. On this pitch there is one very short harder part (more vertical/reachy) but it's well protected with hooks. There is one obvious place for anchor around 3 m below peak of Mnich, if there is too much rope drag or the top is crowded it's better to use this one as an anchor, otherwise you can go directly up to the top.

Material needed: basic sort of nuts and cams, alpine quickdraws (many extension are required)

Route is interesting, relatively easy, well secured/R1, every anchor is bolted and the route is very popular, therefore queues might be expected.

FA: Gyula Komarnicki & Roman Kordys, 1908

1 5+
2 5
3 6-
4 5
5 4
  1. Pierwsza Rysa, 5+

  2. Zacięciem Mierzejewskich, 5

  3. Zacięcie Wojsznisa, 6-

  4. Plyta, 5

  5. Finish, 4

Bolted belays

FA: Justyn Wojsznic & partners, 1930

1 5 30m
2 8- 20m
3 7+ 30m
4 7- 20m

The Last pitch is not bolted.

FA: P. Korczak, A. Marcisz & T. Opozda, 2007

1 8/8+ 25m
2 7+ 25m
3 7+ 25m
4 7- 25m

Bolted route, nut necessary on 1. pitch. Camalots no 0.75, 1 and 2 necessary at 4. pitch. Bolts on the end of each pitch. Descriprion: https://wspinanie.pl/2007/07/folwark-montano-na-mnichu/

FA: P. Korczak, A. Marcisz & A. Paszczak, 2007

1 7
2 6-
3 7-
4 4
1 8 35m
2 9- 20m
3 8- 35m

Bolted route but some gear may be useful at 1. pitch.

FA: P. Korczak, A. Marcisz & T. Opozda, 2007

1 6+
2 7-
3 7
4 4

FA: Jan Długosz, A. Grabianowski, Zbigniew Skoczylas & Marek Stefański, 1953

1 5
2 5+
3 6+
4 4

Bolted belays

FA: Czesław Łapiński & Kazimerz Paszucha, 1941

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Fri 12 May
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