Mostrando os 44 ascensões.
Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Qualidade | Climber | |||
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Sat 13th Feb 2021 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
6b | ★★ Alarette | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Very cool crux, but punted off after. Got it second go. Footwork is like shit after too much steep bouldering!!!
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Tue 2nd Feb 2021 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
6a | ★★ First Blood | 42m, 4 | |||||
Climbed clean, but used the first blood slab variation for the lower pitch.
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6c | ★★ Swab Test | 25m, 11 | |||||
So close to onsight. One rest after trying various body positions at around the fifth bolt. Lovely route, want to get back on it now.
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6b+ | Directuss | 18m, 2 | |||||
Question - is the big crack on the left (i.e. first blood) on? I used left hand in the crack for a couple of moves, right hand on small crimps on the face.
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Sat 30th Jan 2021 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
6a | ★★ First Blood | 42m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Enjoyed it. Chossy start, bouldery traverse section before the crack. Good fun.
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6b | ★★ Alarette | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Super awesome! Cool moves through crack before the beautiful arete. Felt it was more straight forward than First Blood.
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6b+ 6c | ★★ Swab Test | 25m, 11 | ★ Good | ||||
Found it harder than Alarette with a few steeper sections through the bulges. Required a bit of thinking through some sections.
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Sat 23rd Jan 2021 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
5a | ★★ The Nose Ramp - with Alex | 42m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First ever trad lead
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Sat 21st Nov 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
6a | ★★ First Blood | 42m, 4 | |||||
Went up the slab rather than the crack, as was not feeling super confident today, the slab makes for a less bold feeling ascent. Then up the cracks to the second anchor- rested on a bit of gear at one point after getting a bit nervy about the previous placement- the upper part of the second pitch feels good for placements, the lower part has some sections where I was less confident. All in all the usual DF trad experience - mildly terrifying. But a really fun route, next time there want to try directuss and the other second pitch, but will wait for a belayer as even this more simple variation of First Blood still felt a bit sketchy, need to build up some more confidence after not doing much LRS since lockdown
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Sat 7th Nov 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
5a | ★★ First Blood - with Cat A, eoin | 42m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
For P1 we Climbed the flake, Stayed right and gained the slab from Nose Ramp. Interesting route variation to make it a tad easier than climbing the crack. Perhaps this is supposed to be 'First Blood original route' ???
Eoin seconded P2 in the dark , and then we rapped off. |
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Mon 19th Oct 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
6a 5a | ★★ First Blood original route - with Cat A | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Only in dairy farm can you green point a "trad climb". Still finally led it all just on gear. Spurred on by the new cams Sank a pretty full rack of protection from BD #3 down to the little tiny ones.
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Fri 9th Oct 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
★★ First Blood original route - with Hamish | 18m | ★ Good | |||||
An effective litmus test for current level of fitness (or a lack of therein).
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6a 5a | ★★ First Blood original route - with Al Bear | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
[Link up to Alarette]. Still used the bolts. Didn't lead it completely on gear.
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6b | ★★ Alarette - with Al Bear | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
[linked from P1 first blood] We did a headtorch dance, swapping them over as I set off, (worried that mine was going to die) but in the end it was probably unnecessary! Causing Al to belay me in the pitch dark.
I had a bit of fun with the gear. first getting a BD microcam stuck then freed, and then I managed to get a Totem cam well and truly stuck, but not carrying a nut tool, it needed a rescue 🙈😅 (standard).
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Thu 27th Aug 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
Closed Project | 10 | ||||||
With blowtorches
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Thu 6th Aug 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
6a 5a | ★★ First Blood original route - with Al Bear | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Night ascent. Planned to lead this all on trad gear, but in the dark everything is harder to see. Ended up placing cams of the perfect size lower down, with nothing for the traverse/finger crack. So sacked it and used the bolts.
I did remember the crux sequence, which was a small condolence given my arsing about below
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Sun 5th Jul 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
6a 5a | ★★ First Blood original route | 18m | |||||
Setup a toprope, but this time actually used the bolts. Last time did it all trad, but the crux moves over to the left to get to crack just felt super exposed so was happy to get a couple of quickdraws in. Not sure how I had the nerve to do it without them last time, especially as it was solo. Climbed it a couple of times today, super fun route.
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Fri 10th Jan 2020 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
5b 5a | ★★ The Nose Ramp | 42m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Seconded pitch 1 and led pitch 2. Pitch 2 certainly gets the heart rate going a little.
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Fri 6th Dec 2019 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
6a |
★★ First Blood
1
2
| 42m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
first multi-pitch trad (1st pitch real chossy)
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Sun 25th Aug 2019 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
6a |
★★ First Blood
1
6a
42m
2
5b
| 42m, 4 | |||||
Rope solo, sooo close to the onsight but one fall on the crack that closes off the first pitch. Did the whole route trad, but the movement from the top of the flake across to the left to the crack feels exposed without using the bolts. Fun route - nearly fell off the end of the second pitch was done in.
Faff to setup a ground anchor, ended up using a hex, two nuts and a cam, cause I just don't trust that those big chunks of rock will not shift around. |
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Sun 3rd Feb 2019 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
6a | ★★ First Blood - with Nicholas Goh | 42m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Scary second pitch
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Sat 14th Jul 2018 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
6a 5a | ★★ First Blood original route | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Only used the bolts
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Sat 10th Feb 2018 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
6a 5a | ★★ First Blood original route - with Cat A | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
link-up: Alarette
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Sun 7th Jan 2018 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
6b | ★★ Alarette - with Climb that turkey | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Starts from the top of First Blood. During this ascent stayed left following the good rock (avoiding the loose rock).
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Sun 3rd Dec 2017 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
6b | ★★ Alarette - with Climb that turkey, Cat A | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First Kahlil retreated due to loose rock. On my attempt the same loose rock caused me to take a whipper on a nut placed by Kahlil. Retreated shortly afterwards. could not remove the nut.
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6a |
★★ First Blood (First Blood Linkup Alarette)
- with
Climb that turkey, Cat A
1
lead by
Me
2
linkup Alarette
, lead by
Kahlil
| 42m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
I led the 1st pitch taking the original route by traversing left at the top of the flake, then up the vertical crack, mixed route trad gear and bolts.
Khalil led pitch 2, all trad gear to the fixed anchors.
After completing pitch 2 of First Blood, and lowering back to the P1 anchors, its very simple to link to Alarette. As this route starts from the stance at the left and goes up and to the left. |
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Wed 21st Oct 2015 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
6b | ★★ Alarette - with Hamish | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Done in the dark - means the bees are asleep! Much safer.
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6a |
★★ First Blood
- with
Climb that turkey, Cat A, siva, denys, sue
1
lead by
me
2
lead by
me
| 42m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Night climbing!
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Tue 20th Oct 2015 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
6b | In Memory of Mother Teresa | 25m, 9 | |||||
Tradded over to mother Teresa to take a look. Looks like it may be ~ 20 years ago it was bolted and the washers are rusting out. Fixed rope for access also appears to have rotted away. Route should probably be abandoned if not rebolted.
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Sat 25th Jul 2015 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
6b | Pigs In Space - with Climb that turkey | 20m | Average | ||||
On TR, pulled on the rope to clear the crux. Fair amount of loose rocks.
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6a |
★★ First Blood
- with
Climb that turkey, Cat A
1
lead by
K-dawg
| 42m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mixed ascent (bolts / natural pro)
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6b | Pigs In Space - with Hamish | 20m | Average | ||||
Loose rock abounds. Technical climbing.
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Mon 15th Jun 2015 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
6a | ★★ First Blood - with Hamish | 42m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
2nd pitch is classic trad, but has a few loose blocks.
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Mon 25th May 2015 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
6b | ★★ Alarette | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Watch out for the bees nest!
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Sun 24th May 2015 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
6b | ★★ Alarette - with Climb that turkey | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Attempted on lead. Trying to avoid the bees nest which is now on route.
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6b | ★★ Alarette - with Climb that turkey | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Successful TR ascent. Great route!
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5a | ★★ First Blood origional route - with Climb that turkey | 18m | ★ Good | ||||
Did not follow the 'orginal' route. Detoured off to the right after the flake.
Eventually making to the belay station at the bottom of Alarette.
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Sun 10th May 2015 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
6a |
★★ First Blood
- with
MK, Jae
1
2
| 42m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
2nd pitch has some pretty interesting spots - always funky climbing on loose blocks!
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Mon 8th May 2006 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
★★ First Blood | 42m, 4 | Average | |||||
danger danger!!! libing is quarries is bad for your health!!! I hae no finger skin left!!! ak!
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6b | ★★ Alarette | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Took a bit of a crank - I was absolutely exhausted by the time I gae it an honest go at the redpoint
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Tue 9th Aug 2005 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
5.8 5a | ★★ The Nose Ramp | 42m, 2 | |||||
a little loose. Climbed on independance day!
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Sun 11th Aug 2002 - Dairy Farm | |||||||
The Nose | |||||||
★★ First Blood | 42m, 4 | Average | |||||
With Al Silva
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6b | ★★ Alarette | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
With Al himself! nice climb.
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5.8 5a | ★★ The Nose Ramp | 42m, 2 | Average | ||||
with Al Silva
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Mostrando os 44 ascensões.