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The route follows a vertical line starting on the right side of the corner immediately upstream of INVALID. The start is on a shelf 4m above the stream bed. The line continues through the crux move of THE CANNON and through the overhangs 6m to the left of THE CANNON rocks.

1. 30m 13 Traverse diagonally right 5m, up over a bulge and left over a sloping ramp to a point above the starting tree belay. Climb diagonally left over a delicate balance mantleshelf and around a corner then up to a broad shelf and tree belay. (Long runners should be used to reduce rope-drag problems).

2. 40m 15 At the right end of the shelf climb up and around the corner onto an exposed face following the crack line to THE CANNON crux pitch. This move is protected by a fixed piton. Climb this section in common with THE CANNON. The stance is at the foot of the square cut recess above and in line with this difficulty.

3. 20m 17 Climb 3m up the recess, move out to the left to avoid the bulge and re-enter the recess about 9m up using a few excellent handholds and finally a handjam. Using straddle and hand-jamming techniques enter a "blind" cubbyhole (crux). (Excellent large taper nut crack available in the sloping floor of the cubbyhole). Leave the recess by taking a spectacular breech-rending step to the left and mounting the remaining vertical exposed rock over reasonably good holds.

Note:

Variations may be climbed over the first 4m by moving left and up over very vertical and strenuous rock (15 to 17) or finishing up between the "cannons".

The climb is situated on the downstream end of the buttress on which THE CANNON and BURST BREECH are found (hence climbs name). The line is an obvious, direct crack and corner system and takes in the crux (15) section of THE CANNON. Climb commences in a chimney 1m upstream of a large tree growing on a ledge 6m above kloof floor.

1. 40m 17 Scramble up chimney and past abovementioned tree and break through overhanging roof with jam-crack (crux). Continue directly above through corner and recess, past peg and through the crux of THE CANNON, to a large grassy ledge. (Can ascend one of the upper pitches described for THE CANNON from here).

The climb starts on the opposite side of the huge boulder marking the start of THE LESSON. It is on the true right hand side of the kloof, at the same level as KLOOF DESCENT.

1. 22m 17,A0 Start up a smooth open book recess to the left of a large tree. Several tricky moves up the fault above lead to a blank wall about 20m up. Using a small nut for aid, move up until able to do an awkward mantleshelf on to a tiny stance.

2. 30m 15 Directly above the stance is a wedge of rock forming a small overhang. Climb over the overhang before moving to the right around the corner. Move up and right via a tricky mantleshelf to a large ledge. To the right is a large loose overhanging recess; avoid this by moving left and up to a tree below an overhang. From the tree, step left until able to climb up easily over some stacked blocks to a large platform.

3. 20m 10 Climb up the crack in the face above. Follow the easiest line to the top.

The climb is situated 40m upstream from THE GOLDEN GATE buttress and 45m downstream from the big pool blocking the bottom of the kloof. The climb is 5m downstream from a recess and large tree that leans over from the left. Start from a boulder in the river below an overlap.

1. 20m 17 Climb up to the overlap and through easily to the left. Move right to a short steep face and climb this to the corner under the prominent overhang. Swing left and down, then climb the ramp and face to a cubby hole. (At this point, the tree from the other side of the kloof reaches the rock.)

2. 35m 13 Move 3m to the left and climb straight up easy rock to a recess between the buttress on the right and large block on the left. Climb onto the block and then move up and around to the left and climb a recess until it is possible to move across right to a large ledge below a corner.

3. 20m 10 Climb the corner to a cubby hole. Climb into it and then up a crack to top of buttress. Scramble to the top.

Start directly below prominent pinnacle near descent gully.

1. 20m 17 Ascend strenuous handjam crack to ceiling. Move out to right 2m and up 4m to top of gendarme.

2. 10m 15 Move right 3m into chimney, between gendarme and face and climb chimney 6m to top of pinnacle. Alternatively move diagonally left and ascend easy face. Step across to main face and ascend thin face to ledge. (Part of this pitch is shared with PINNACLE NORTH).

3. 30m 17 Ascend 7m up thin ridge to sloping platform. Hand-traverse 6m to left and move up to long sloping ramp beneath low ceiling. Ascend ramp and continue past large chockstone to the summit. Alternatively, traverse left 10m to corner and climb strenuous chimney to gain the ramp.

Note:

This climb is strenuous, having probably the longest hand-traverse in the Magaliesberg. Protection is good.

Variation:

For a direct finish, from halfway along the big hand-traverse, ascend direct to top (20). 1985 G. Mallory.

Start at break 6m right of DINKUM DIHEDRAL. Climb the crack (which becomes off-width) exiting right at large ledge.

1. 20m 17 Climb the red face to the base of the fine looking jam crack, climb this to tree belay.

Variation:

1. 25m 7 Start as for NETTLE CHIMNEY up to the large ledge. Now, move left on large ledge for 40m to the third recess.

2. 20m 17 Make a difficult take-off on left side of recess. Move to right after 5m to sloping rib.

The climb starts only a metre or so to the right of YORKSHIRE, i.e. directly opposite SKELETON GULLY.

1. 33m 17 Ascend thin handjam crack to ledge (12m). Traverse 5m to the right on ledge, then ascend strenuous handjam crack 12m to ledge.

2. 35m 15 Traverse diagonally 3m under righthand side of nose then up 3m and traverse back 3m and up 3m onto nose. Continue up ridge to cubbyhole.

3. 14m 15 Move up to right out of cubbyhole and make awkward move up to diagonal crack with creeper. Climb crack 4m then move left onto ridge and continue to summit.

The downstream facing corner crack between JELLY BEANS and BORED GAMES opposite STRAIGHT EDGE.

1. 30m 17 Climb jam-crack with an awkward move just above the cubbyhole to broken ground.

Starts 2m left of lone tree on embayment - see SATYRIASIS STRUT and OEDIPUS WRECKS.

1. 20m 17 Climbs broken corner crack system at left end of embayment.

18m upstream of the large tree is a large cave at 18m which is the initial objective of the climb. Start between the cave and the tree.

1. 6m 10 Use the sapling to gain the large ledge.

2. 18m 13 Traverse 9m left to the base of the V-groove below the cave. Ascend the groove by laybacking and using the pinnacle flakes on the left wall. Belay in the cave.

3. 9m 15 Traverse 5m left from the cave and up to a narrow ledge. From the right end of the ledge make a difficult move up, then slightly left to the long ledge under the overhang.

4. 18m 7 Traverse to the left round the arete and slant up and along the top ledge to a block and tree belay.

5. 17m 10 Move up into the groove capped by a tree, pass the detached block, step right and up the rib to large ledge and chock belay below the top overhang.

6. 17m 13 Climb directly up the wall behind, then up the shallow cracks (half red, half white - conversion imminent) to a large ledge below the overhang split by a chimney.

7. 9m 17 Climb up the recess to the overhang and move out until a very difficult move into the chimney can be made. Red converts easily to the top.

Note:

Non-converts can avoid the last pitch by an easy slab on the left.

Start on the arete 10m to the left of FUTCH.

1. 20m 17 Pull up awkwardly over the bulge. Climb the recess to under the large overhang. Traverse the face and exit right.

A short route with some interesting roof moves. The route starts 8m to the left of FUTCH.

1. 15m 17 From the large sloping ledge 4m above the stream mantleshelf into a short open book. Step 1m right and continue straight up to the roof. The roof is climbed by pulling through on a detached block on the left. Note: Scramble to easier ground or abseil down ESCAPE ROUTE.

There are three short routes left of CLEVER (just round the corner). OBLIQUE takes the right-slanting crack on the right.

Approximately 8m downstream of AND THEN THERE WERE THREE is a deep vegetated chimney. Left of this is a grey slab topped by a pronounced steep-looking red face bound on the right by a sharp arete.

1. 38m 17 The route ascends the left of the grey slab to the ledge above with tree, just below the red face (4m). Continue up the red face starting at its left extremity and moving up diagonally rightwards (thin) to the rounded nose above. Immediately above the nose is a crack system. Ascend this to the top, finishing as for AND THEN THERE WHERE THREE.

Note:

A pleasant short route with good exposure on the face.

10m left of PRIME RATE is an undercut orange face. On the right arete of the face is a break.

1. 25m 17 Climb this starting with an awkward move.