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The climb is 100m upstream of the junction with Great Gully. At this point there is a 6m overhang at the top of the face. The climb starts at a 2,5m long rock splinter leaning against the face.

1. 18m 13 Climb sometimes at the crack and sometimes to the right, past a tree 8m up to a small stance at a chockstone.

2. 11m 15 Traverse right for 9m, then ascend at the left of a minor overhang to the second ledge above this overhang.

3. 13m 18, A0 Traverse left for 6m above the traverse of the second pitch to a corner. Traverse left around the buttress (awkward) until the ledge ends. Climb diagonally upwards to the left onto a long narrow ledge.

4. 6m 10 Climb upwards and then diagonally left to a stance on which there are three trees.

Notes:

1. The climb is sustained.

2. Started in 1950 by R. Davies and D. Gillham.

Start by a large tree at the base of two parallel cracks which lie midway between HIGH NOON and AMPUTATION CHIMNEY. This climb starts up the left hand of these 2 cracks. About 15m above are two recesses, each containing a single tree.

1. 35m 18 Climb the crack for 2m, step left and ascend the smooth face directly without reference to either crack. Protection is by tying-off the thick tree root. Gain the blunt arete above (between the two recesses). Follow this delicately to the grassy gully above. Tree belay. (Common stance with AMPUTATION CHIMNEY.)

2. 15m 18 Traverse 3m right and ascend the steep appealing crack system above to a ledge with a tree. Good protection.

3. 15m 15 Follow the sharp, stepped arete above, move left and follow a short corner-crack to a broad, vegetated ledge. Scramble to top.

Exact location unknown. The route starts about 75m up the kloof, past the cascades where the kloof widens slightly. Walk past the cascades to where the kloof is blocked by a large boulder on the right and one or two on the left. The stream makes a small waterfall here. Climb up on the left using the thick roots of a tree growing on the left wall and the boulder closest to it. Walk left and find the cairn. Look up and you will see three large roofs above you. Dyno for a nice jug on the face above you and climb to the open book.