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1. 21A1 Climb the corner under the big square roof and rail out left (pulling on cams) to the continuation crack. Hanging stance in the crack to the right and just above a tree.

2. 17 Follow the crack straight to the top.

Goes up prominent corner recess to left of a cave 30m east of 'Cave Crag'. Follows recess to two-thirds of height, crosses to face on right then straight upward.

Follows the ridge on the left-hand side of the 'Frame Route', i.e. up the left edge below the overhang from which the FRAME derives its name. The climb has four pitches all of which are grade 8 except for the beginning of the third which is grade 9.

This climb is usually commenced from the top of the grass slope a few meters right of 'Eureka Gully' , and ascends the first band of rock in 2 or 3 pitches of 9 standard to the broad grass ledge. Start from the grass ledge below a long grey face to the left of EUREKA FACE. The climb proceeds straight up the face in a series of pitches of grade 9.

15m upstream from 'Wassail'.

1. 20m 9 Start in a deep recess and climb bearing left to a small corner. Climb up, bear slightly right and then back left to a good stance.

2. 25m 8 Continue straight up keeping right in a wide recess to the top.

The route is on the first buttress upstream of the grassy broken grey slabs, on the right side of the kloof. The route follows the first obvious corner on the left-hand side of the buttress (downstream side).

1. [9] 45m Climb in the corner or just to the right of it. The pitch may be conveniently split.

Start in the easy corner 5m downstream of 'Devil Dodger'.

1. 35m 8 Climb the obvious corner and continue up to a tree belay at the point where the face steepens and the corner becomes more defined once again.

2. 15m 8 Climb the corner to a large ledge.

3. 15m 9 Climb the steep chimney above on good grips.

Starts on the buttress about 15m to left of 'Emerald Slab'. (45m east of 'Male Firenze')

1. [8] XXm

   Climb to a stance below a sloping recess.

2. ?m 9 Follow through this recess.

3. ?m 9 Starts to right of overhanging blocks, bearing slightly right then up on edge of ridge on left of 'Emerald Slab' through blocks to the top.

This route lies on the face immediately to the right of the 'set back' face referred to under 'Dassie Route'. Start about 12m to the right of a cave which is at the base of the right-hand containing ridge of the 'Dassie Route' set back face.

1. ?m 9 Ascend about 6m in recess (9), traverse right behind a poised block 2m high, ascend rather dirty crack for 6m to wide ledge. Walk to left along ledge and ascend to top of subsidiary buttress on the right hand containing ridge of the set back face.

2. ?m 8 From here take the most direct and pleasant route to top.

Note: If more difficulty is desired, climb the following variation: From the cave traverse right to a smooth walled recess closed in by blocks higher up. Ascend recess passing over blocks (13) and continue up crack to top of the subsidiary buttress. This variation is more direct but rather out of keeping with the rest of the climb.

At the base of the buttress immediately on the left of 'Dassie Route' is a brown face with broken blocks below it. On the left of this buttress is a recess with a grey, grass-strewn face extending to the left from it. The climb follows this recess from the bottom of the slope. Climb partly in the recess and partly on the face.

1. 30m 9 Climb recess.

2. 30m 9 The more difficult section of this pitch is at the start and a belay can be made at 18m if required.

3. 15m 8 To summit.

This climb follows the right-hand edge of the prominent ridge immediately west of 'Juniper Face', i.e. the next ridge west from that to the left of 'Dassie Route'. The climb follows the recess to the right of the ridge to a point about 45m up where a 'porthole' through the ridge allows a traverse to the left (through the porthole) across the adjacent face to the next ridge left. The final pitch goes up the recess from this point.

Start on the ridge to the left of 'Carabiner Crag' and at the lowest point of the buttress to the left of the dark face and prominent cracks which face onto 'Carabiner Crag'.

1. 35m 8 Climb the red face for 3m before moving left around the small ridge, then up for 20m until broken rock and grassy ledges form the last 12m of the pitch. Belay on the large grassy platform at an open book.

2. 35m 9 Climb the 3m high open book then climb right and up for 15m to a small low overhang. A grassy ledge above the overhang is reached by going round to the left then up onto a small grey wall. The next 10m is on an open face with horizontal ripples which give way to larger holds and a more broken face up to the stance on large blocks on the right hand edge of the ridge.

3. 35m 8 Start on the right side of the ridge on broken slabs for 4m, then cross to the left onto the grey face and stay on the right-hand side of this face for 20m until it gives way to broken rock for 10m to the top.

The climb starts about 16m upstream from the start of 'Grandstand' at a small gnarled tree 2m downstream from the boulder at the corner of the gully leading out of Trident kloof to the west.

1. [9] 18m

   Climb almost vertically for 9m to a large sloping ledge from which the route angles slightly to the right while climbing a further 5m. Scramble up the last 4m to the base of 'Grandstand' pinnacle.

2. 14m 7 Climb the face just to the left of the pinnacle, surmount overhang 3m up (some moves encroach on 'PINNACLE CHIMNEY) and continue to top of pinnacle. Alternatively the east face of the pinnacle can be climbed which maintains a grade 9 difficulty to the top.

3. 20m 8 Belay leader from the pinnacle top from where the pitch starts as a horizontal traverse to the left for 6m, at the same level as the belayer, turn the corner above an overhang, angle upwards to the left for 9m to a big chockstone which is the last obstacle before reaching the top, which is only 3m to the left of the top of 'Grandstand'.

At the left hand side of the smooth rock wall on which 'Lifebuoy', 'Shady Overhang' and 'Bat's Overhang' are situated. The route follows an obvious line immediately to the left of the smooth rock wall.

An easier start is up the deeper recess about 5m left of the smooth face.

A more difficult first pitch 13 is up the shallow recess about 1,5m left of the smooth face. From the belay practice ledge (large block here) continue on up right-angled recess.

Start as for 'Solo' in a crack to the left of an upstream facing slab.

1. 15m 9 Climb up and left over dark coloured bulging rock, then up to tree.

2. 20m 9 Move right into corner then do a step over onto the front of the prominent arete.

3. 20m 9 Climb steep face moving left past tree to top, or go directly up corner (10).

Start 10m right of 'Mountain Brew'.

1. 18m 9 Climb the crack-cum-chimney to a ledge on the right at 16m. Either wriggle through thin black chimney or fight the aloes to a stance and tree belay.

2. 25m 8 Continue up the fault until the angle eases. Bear left to the foot of a lichen-covered grey slab which leans back at 15o off vertical.

3. 10m 8 Climb the slab or scramble off in the gully to the right.

This climb is situated near the east end of the face which runs eastward from Fountain Gully. It commences at the only big tree in this vicinity, left of a big block.

1. [8] 6m

   From tree up onto block, then bearing slightly right to ledge.

2. 18m 9 Traverse left to base of recess with crack. Climb up 11m into chimney (the “Straight Jacket”) and up to big cubby hole.

3. 12m 8 Climb out left and then to top.

The climb commences at the base of a large grey block jutting from the krantz about 150m left of the foot of Saddle Gully, and generally follows the line of a broken ridge.

1. [9] 12m

   Climb on the outside of the block to stance on top of it.

2. 12m 9 Climb recess behind stance and traverse right below an overhang at the top of the recess on to a bushy stance below an aloe filled recess.

3. 22m 8 Up recess through a group of aloes bearing left on to crest of ridge, reaching a large stance by an awkward pull-up.

4. 9m 8 Climb steep recess behind stance.

Starts 25 to 30m up Short Gully from 'Left Corner'.

1. [9] 23m

   Ease into narrowing vertical chimney on good handholds through overhanging tight section, then 4,5m higher and out of chimney to right and up to good belay on bush.

2. 18m 8 On vertical rock 6m to horizontal crack then traverse left to top stance of 'Left Corner'.

20m upstream from the MCSA post, the buttress on the true right is split by a low-angle recess filled with tree routes.

1. [9] XXm Ascend this recess to 4m, and traverse left on a ledge. From the end of the ledge, step left and up onto another ledge and follow the recess to the top, stepping right at the end.

The chimney on the upstream side of the LEAP OF FAITH buttress.

1. 25m 9 Start awkwardly over the first boulder, or burrow under the tree, before employing classic chimney techniques to ascend. Good fun.

Climbs the open book 5m to the left of SCROOGE.

1. 20m 9 Climb the easy groove past a tree to a small ledge. Move right and climb to the top of the crag.

Start 10m to the right of LITTLE MOLAR in extreme right of the small gully (160 paces downstream from meet point).

1. 30m 9 Climb over two brown blocks to gain access to the greyish slabs which are climbed to the foot of the crack. Climb the crack which widens into a chimney. Emerge on the right atop a pile of brown blocks.

Note: Descent gully behind pillar on left or abseil off large tree.

On the right-hand side of the lower kloof, 180 paces downstream from the usual meet point is a 40m pile of smooth brown pillar-like rocks. The climb starts 15m from the stream bed in a crack behind a tree in front of the left-hand pillar.

1. 30m 9 Climb the crack to a ledge with a large block on the right. Move up to the overhang and move left into the chimney (crux). Climb over two chockstones in the chimney then climb to the top of the right hand pillar or surmount the pillar from behind (7).

Descent as for OPUS ONE.

A short on angle slab to the left of the descent gully. The start is guarded by thick shrubbery.

1. 15m 9 Climb up the centre of the slab to the top ledge.

Note: Bad gear.

Starts left of TON UP PLUS in a recess with many roots at its foot. [Just above the 2nd weir.]

1. 30m 9 Climb past the roots to a shelf. Climb either of two possibilities to a tree-filled recess. Finish up any of three scrambles to the top.

Note: Starts well but fades at the top.

Climb the downstream side of the buttress on which IMMACULATE MISCONCEPTION is situated. Start to the right of an easy-looking gully to the right of CALCULUS. [23 pipelengths up from the 1st weir]

1. 38m 9 Climb for 10m on crystallized rock until obliged to step across to the right to a small tree on a commodious ledge. Continue on the setback faces, to the top.

Note: Dodges around a lot. Watch for rope drag.

Starts to the right of BLOCKBUSTER.

1. 30m 9 Fight off the heavy bush at the foot of a grey corner and climb the grey corner and chimney to a ledge at 15m. Move around the bulge to the right and into another chimney. Climb past the chockstone to the top.

Opposite the waterfall gully and 12m upstream of the first weir is a long arête that forms a curved knife-edge at the top, finishing on prominent grey blocks. Start in the grey band of rock below a large tree 15m up.

1. 38m 9 Climb to the large tree, then slightly right up easy rock to a short recess with a prominent chockstone at its head. Surmount the chockstone to a small belay ledge. (The only hard moves are at the start and finish of the pitch.)

2. 25m 7 Stay on the knife-edge to the final blocks.

Note: Good tripper's route.

Start just to the left of SUPERTRAMP on a laid-back slab bounded on the right by stepped overhangs.

1. 10m 7 Climb the grey face to a "pulpit" stance.

2. 33m 9 Continue up the slab to the top. Note: Might be possible on one rope length.

The climb takes the prominent chimney situated just upstream of the descent gully with the water pipe. Follow this pipe up the ramp until next to a large cave. [Upstream of Pipe Ramp]

1. 20m 9 Climb up to the right of the cave onto a ledge. Ascend crack to next ledge and walk into back of chimney. Up chimney to the roof and move out onto the top of a huge detached block.

2. 18m 9 Move right into groove and climb this past a rusty peg to the summit.

Variation:

2 18m 13 Move up and left onto steep exposed slab and continue up to a large flat block. Step right and finish up the arête. (21 Jul 1985 L. Gardiner and T.P. Willmot)

Just upstream of the second weir and left of the buttress with the large leaning capped flake (COMFORTABLY NUMB), is a set-back arête.

1. 30m 9 Climb the obvious fault line to the top, moving left near the top if you wish to avoid a hard move at the summit.

Note: Clean and direct climb.

Starts downstream of OBSCENE GESTURE in a brown recess with a small pinnacle at its right-hand edge. (Alongside pipe No 16 above 1st weir)

1. 30m 9 Start behind the base of the pinnacle. Climb 12m then finish up an easy recess.

Note: Lousy rock. Disappointing.

Begins high up to the right of GOLDEN HIGHWAY, 15m above the stream. Start at a pointed-topped recess on an upstream-facing grey corner. There is a small undercut buttress to the right. [G + 10]

1. 35m 9 Move on to the front face passing behind twin trees, then up grassy ledges to a black face. Climb on small ledges stepped left, then to the top bearing right.

Note: Rather vegetated with one clean grade 9 face at its centre.

The start of this climb is on top of the earth bank immediately opposite the large block above the meeting place. Start at base of chimney.

1. 12m 8 Climb the left hand recess into the chimney, avoiding some loose rock halfway up. Stance in large yellow recess.

2. 22m 9 Climb over nose on left corner of recess (delicate) and diagonally up to the left to a large grassy ledge.

3. 9m 8 Climb the centre of an inclined face immediately above the ledge.

Notes:

1. Easier variations to left can be made for each pitch.

2. Extreme care should be taken not to dislodge rocks as they tend to fall onto the meeting place.

Start at the bottom of the CENTURY CHIMNEY this point can reached by some scrambling which may require use of a rope near the bottom.

1. 15m 7 Traverse right behind large flake to corner or recess which is at the downstream end of the setback face (see CENTURY CRAG).

2. 35m 9 Ascend the corner until an overhang at the top is reached. Traverse right to bypass this and continue the remaining few metres to the top.

Situated on left hand wall of SLAB GULLY follows crack going up wall.

1. 35m 9 Follow crack which peters out after 18m and climb becomes an easy scramble.

Situated 3m right of PINNACLE NORTH. Start by scrambling up 4m, at a point as high up the kloof as possible where the upper krantzes lie back in an upper bay. To the right of PINNACLE NORTH is a crack or recess running straight up. (Grey, very rough rock.)

1. 13m 8 Climb 6m up to ledge with big nettle tree. Continue up recess 7m to good tree.

2. 10m 9 Climb up past narrow cubbyhole on awkward holds to big tree.

3. 15m 7 Climb up through hole in roof and scramble to base of next pitch.

4. 10m 8 Climb narrow open book type of chimney, not the easy crack on the left, to good stance. (At this point, climb crosses NETTLE CHIMNEY.)

5. 14m 7 Pass around to the right, under a corner which is of a higher grade, to next recess and climb over chockstones to good tree (10m). Finish by going right again into short chimney to top.

Start right of the obvious arete in the middle of the main wall and climb the arete rock ridge to the anchors. Perma-draws as top anchors.

Climb the attractive face to the left of Cherry Face. Keep up the middle up this easy climb

Take the chimney up the deep black recess to the left of Boomslang Ridge. Exit to the right at the top. This climb is good for novices. The recess at the back of the chimney can be climbed but unfortunately is is dirty with bad rock.

Climb the outside corner left of Belcher.

On the upper band of rock above Maidens Triumph. Climbs up the middle of the slab.

On the upper band of rock above Maidens Triumph. This route climbs the right-hand edge of the smooth slab on the left of a small gully.

Climb the pleasant face situated to the right of Minie.

Follow the left-most line of bolts up the grooves and ledges to where you can reach the lower-offs. A slightly easier variation is found if you deviate 1-2m left after the first bolt.

About 4m to the right of GOAT CRACK is a small tree. Climb left of tree to ledge, then move up left via crack to a ledge 1m to the right of the cubby hole of GOAT CRACK. Then climb up cracks above to the top.

Starts a couple meters left of 'Milou', up generally easy slab to bolted anchor at the base of the obvious arête in the upper part of the cliff.

Starts just left of the tree at the base of 'Crouching Tiger'. Halfway up the face there is a u-bolt anchor before the final crux. A must do, especially if you are old enough to walk.

The extension of 'Garfield' to the chains near the sloping block at the very top.

Start just right of 'Mel', following U-bolts up diagonally rightwards then up to anchor.

Traverse up and right following the black mark-ed bolts (and cable!). Start up 2 bolts of 'Als', up another move as for 'Jane', then traverse behind the large tree and across the square ledge. Step up right onto the slab, similar to 'Kaj', and traverse right to the 3 U-bolt anchor at a ledge close to the arête. From here one may rappel/lower off, or bring up a 2nd then do any of the 4 right hand routes on this slabby perched face. Can easily be soloed up or down with the via ferrata but know how to use the via ferrata safely before trying this. The via ferrata becomes way more technical and exposed going around the arête into the gully.

5 meters to the right of the ladder.

The alpine arête between 'True Blue' and 'Wysiwyg', starting just left of and below 'Mellow Yellow' - smaller U-bolts. Go diagonally left towards the arête then up to a ledge at half height. Lower from here (8 bolts) or continue up to the 'Mellow Yellow' anchors

The arête at the bottom of the access gulley. A classic!

From the chains, climb 2m back up the gully, then up the 1st route on the left to the summit block.

2-3m right of 'Wall Banger'. Climb the right wall of the gully, just down from the railway. Go leftish to a choice of anchors.

The little chimney that climbs to a chock stone at the top.

Start next to a bush at the base of the wide crack in the easy angled face on the right of the path leading to the bottom of the crag. Climb the face next to the crack for about two metres and then traverse left to the corner. Climb up the blocky face to the top.

Easy, but interesting climbing.

Either abseil down Jack the Ripper and walk West or abseil off the blocks at the top of the cliff ~50m East of the Utopia access abseil. Both abseils are ~40m.

The route name is painted on the rock at the base of the cliff.

(1) Climb a shallow recess for a few metres before traversing left onto an easy face. Climb the face to a ledge and then walk left to some blocks, belay here.

(2) Climb the corner left of the blocks until reaching a ledge to the left with large flakes leaning against the face. Traverse the ledge until able to climb directly up to finish. Alternatively, traverse along the top of the flakes (awkward).

Start as for 'Tweedle Dee' but tend left, to reach the base of recess on the left to the 'Tweedle Dee' arête. From the recess, step up left onto a ledge and then exit straight up. It is harder than 9 if you start of slightly to the left of 'Tweedle Dee'.

Start about 10m to the right of 'Witch's Brew' and just to the left of a tree at the bottom of the crag. Climb straight up to a ledge and then up blocks to the top.

From grade 8 fully using the block behind you, to 18 if you don't use it at all - or anything in between depnding on the extent.

Route name, grade and FA details from Gavin Peckham's "Rock Climbing at White Umfolozi River".

Route name, grade and FA details from Gavin Peckham's "Rock Climbing at White Umfolozi River".

Route name, grade and FA details from Gavin Peckham's "Rock Climbing at White Umfolozi River".

Route name, grade and FA details from Gavin Peckham's "Rock Climbing at White Umfolozi River".

Route name, grade and FA details from Gavin Peckham's "Rock Climbing at White Umfolozi River".

Route name, grade and FA details from Gavin Peckham's "Rock Climbing at White Umfolozi River".

Route name, grade and FA details from Gavin Peckham's "Rock Climbing at White Umfolozi River".

Route name, grade and FA details from Gavin Peckham's "Rock Climbing at White Umfolozi River".

Climb up to the start of the huge crack that splits the face to the right of the block mentioned above. From here you can scramble up along the rising base of the crack and emerge on top via a narrow 'wormhole' - no significant climbing involved. Alternatively you can chimney up the crack from any position that takes your fancy.

Climb the short, neat, wrinkly face between the 'Three Bears' and 'Hot Porridge'.

Climb the slab

Climb up the steps

Climb the stacked blocks/ rib on the left.

Climb as for Wishing Well, but sit-start (sitting on the rock) higher on the layaway.

Sit-start with the jug / crack, move up right to a good ledge and top-out direct.

Start with left hand on a slopey gaston and right hand higher on a sidepull / pinch on the arête.

Sit-start with left hand in the groove and climb the broken face keeping left.

Sit-start with left hand on an edge and right hand on a smaller edge, right hand to sloper.

Hang-start on a jug and move up right to top-out onto the Skins boulder.

Hang-start on a big jug, traverse right along the lip and finish up the front of the prow.

Sit-start on two edges beneath the roof and top-out direct.

Climb the juggy arête feature.

Sit-start with both hands in the right end of the jug rail, left hand to a sidepull in a seam and top-out direct.