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Nice Time Buttress

  • Contexto da graduação: SA
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Questões de acesso herdado de Yellowwood

The Ravine, Amphitheatre and most of the climbable rock is on the farm Gevonden 733 and is privately owned by the Dave Richter family trust. There is tacit permission to climb at Yellowwood by the beneficiaries of the trust provided we do not engage in any eco-unfriendly practises.

Ética herdado de Yellowwood

The prevailing ethic for Yellowwood is tread lightly.

"Tread lightly" means no bolting of belay stances unless all possible alternatives have been completely exhausted. No placing of bolts for running belays that are not absolutely essential. No use of pitons, unless necessary. No use of power drills is accepted!

Climbers are asked to respect the prevailing ethic which is intended to preserve the aesthetic appeal of Yellowwood as a world-class Trad climbing destination.

It is essential for first time visitors to do an ascent of one of the existing classic trad routes to appreciate the committing and adventurous nature of the climbing at Yellowwood. Older routes such as Armageddon Time (and the direct), Blood is Sweeter than Honey and Time Warp are all test pieces for their grade. And newer routes such as Prime Time (and the direct) and Fantastic Time as well as "routes in progress" of which there at least 3, are no less demanding at the grade. Most, if not all the trad routes on the main wall have at least one "R" (run-out) pitch but none are "X" rated. There is minimal fixed gear and very few fixed stance

A new route on Yellowwood, Fighting The Dark Side Of Gravity, has had all its bolts removed, except for two that are essential for the leader on Pitch 3. Two non-essential pitons have also been removed.

There has been much debate about Yellowwood and the most active Yellowwood climbers have talked extensively so as to settle the ethos of this high-value cliff.

In a recent meeting Adam Roff, Jeremy Samson and Hilton Davies distilled the following:

Yellowwood is a very special Trad climbing venue and there have been some mis-steps in route development at the crag. Newborn was bolted many years ago before locals had given much thought to bolting and ethics. It is a legacy that shall remain, but should not be seen as guidance for route development at Yellowwood. More recently four new routes have been established by visitors who have made extensive use of non-essential bolting. Whilst route development is encouraged, non-essential bolting is not; and these new routes are getting their non-essential bolts removed. They will remain as good adventurous routes.

2014: There have been no less than 10 new multi-pitch trad routes established at Yellowwood in the first 5 months of this year. Together they constitute no less than 60 pitches or, combined, more than 1500m of climbing. All the routes have been free-climbed with the vast majority of the pitches of being moderate grade and only 2 pitches of grade 22 and one of grade 24. The routes are all well protected and no fixed gear was necessary.

Etiquetas

Vias

Adicionar via(s) Adicionar croqui Reordenar Edição em massa Converter grau
Grade Via
1 19 30m
2 21 35m
3 18 20m
4 20 45m
5 21 35m

The route starts in the middle of the buttress supporting Smalblaar ridge on the right. Walk round from YW amphitheatre, round the large genderme, as if going to the descent gully and chess pieces. Scramble up the easiest obvious grassy ledge system to start at a crack (cairn in place.)

  1. 30m (19) Climb the crack to a blocky ledge 5m. Move left 2m and turn the overhang on the left and step right onto the face and climb up to a good stance. Belay to the right of the keyed in flake.

  2. 35m (20/21) Climb up carefully using the flake till standing on it. Pull through the overlap and attain easier ground. Traverse left to and the up on the left arête. Climb diagonally up with lay back moves to exit with a mantelshelf move on lichen covered rock. Belay on a small ledge system.

  3. 20m (18) Climb the crack on the left and scramble up to belay on a good ledge below the obvious chimney crack on the right.

  4. 45m (20) Climb the yellow- red rock to attain the chimney. Continue onto easier bushy terrain and belay on the left next to large blocks.

  5. 35m (21). Climb over the blocks and continue straight up steep cracks using stemming moves to a ledge. Belay here or continue up the crack system tending to the left to climb through the overlap. (18).

Scramble off right or have a go at the Headwall pitch on the left.

Descent. Down Galley to right (2 raps) or Timerity rap route which is quicker if you went past the drip (3 raps).

FA: Charles Edelstein & Dave Vallet, 2011

1 17 50m
2 21 15m
3 20 20m
4 19 50m
5 17 25m

FA: Charles Edelstein & Brent Russell, 15 Dec 2016

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