Vias em Nyckelviksberget

Chossy in the middle. One bolt with one ring on the top.

Two hangers above the edge as "anchor" (April 2021).

Two hangers above the edge as "anchor" (April 2021).

Share start with 'Kuling'

Partly bolted

40m from the anchor to the start. Be careful if repelling.

Previously mixed. Fully bolted 2020. 40m from the anchor to the start. Be careful if repelling.

40m from the anchor to the start. Be careful if repelling.

Originally trad.

traverse. Start in 'Fi', continue in 'Badkvigor' and finish in 'I stället för Lidingö runt'. Partly bolted. (Bolts on other routes and gear in between).

Partly bolted. Long traverse.

Extension to 'Busters sva' or 'Nöten'

Direct, harder variant of Busters sva.

Under development

Right direct start to 'Social distans'.

Climb right after 2nd bolt.

Fun, balancey traverse up the ramp and up left avoiding the overhang. It's not over until you're on the shelf! Also a good downclimb.

Open project

Same as 'An eyeful of balls on a highline' but it is possible (and easier) to top out earlier up the final face before the corner, it's just blind.

Fun, balancey traverse out of the water then follow the crack right to reach the great corner move and up to the shelf.

Awesome. Start by moving out left through the fingery crux then up and leftwards on amazing slopey juggy holds to the ledge. Watch out during the first crux as there is an underwater ledge but it's pretty safe. After the crux it's completely safe. If you have a rope dangling from the top anchor and climb the DWS with a harness and belay device, it's possible to reach the rope from the ledge and then abseil back down to the bottom to repeat without getting wet! Otherwise enjoy the jump into deep water.

Same start but follow the crack straight up to the ledge instead of moving left on the juggy holds of Scylla. Feels hard for the grade. (In Greek mythology, 'between Scylla and Charybdis' means 'between two equally hazardous alternatives').

Not sure this route actually exists?

The bolt line furthest to the left, starting near the DWS routes. Very thin, hard start, eases off towards the end. Keep right at the top for the proper top out.

The route that Johan Luhr climbed in the film "Hårda tag". Nice crimpy climbing on the face with a dynamic and exposed finish. Watch here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UsbhSCnuXN8

Blinddate to the jug, then right to finish in Taniwha. Harder than Blinddate.

Interesting start and nice crux sequence around the corner.