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A good and slightly bold pitch that follows the staggered right-facing groove in the wall left of Desecrator. Start on the Desecrator starting ledge. Take the wall and groove to a slight horizontal break just below the capping overhang of the groove. Make a thin traverse right to slot and then move up to ledge and peg. Head leftwards to a crack and finish up it.

A stern test of both mind and strength on one of Avon's most impressive walls. Start about 45m up the path from the base of the crag at a well-worn gearing-up spot.

1. 5b, 25m. Climb up vegetated ground and work easily rightwards to a peg under an overhang. Move down left, then make committing moves up the wall to better holds which lead leftwards again to a small overhang. Move over the overhang rightwards to a small ledge and climb the groove above to a small stance.

2. 5b, 25m. Continue up the groove to an overhang and pull out right and then up into the crack that splits the spectacular final wall. Follow the crack to the left end of the capping overhangs and finish leftwards.

1. 5b, 25m.

2. 5b, 25m.

1. 5b, 27m.

2. 5b, 25m.

1. 5b, 33m.

2. 5a, 10m. An alternative and slightly more difficult and bolder version of M1. Begin as for M1. Follow the corner/groove of M1 to its end. Traverse left for 2m and just past a small corner pull up and right (thread) to reach a concrete rock stabilisation installation. Move out left and up a groove to a ledge and huge thread. Step right and boldly climb the wall to the ramp.

A fabulous pitch, loaded with a great deal of varied climbing. Start beneath the large corner/groove at the base of the face. Follow the blank corner/groove to ledges before heading right along a break to the base of a scoop. A few difficult moves up the right-hand side of the scoop, peg, gain the base of a right-leaning groove which leads to a ledge and easier ground.

1. 5b, 15m.

2. 5b, 30m.

Start 7m left of the broken fissure. Start up the deteriorating crack that forms the lower R/H element of the crossing cracks that make a vague 'X', poor gear. Make use of features to the right, to gain the rightward arching crack crossed by Rancho, the upper R/H element of the 'X'. Follow this to it's end and proceed upwards to the borehole belay.

Pitch 3 of The Featherless Biped.

The faint groove system just left of Floating Voter, follow it directly as possible with some frictional moves, trying very hard to keep out of Floating Voter. Worth it's lack of stars.

Is still climbable despite rockfall at the start.

A laudable modern hybrid that puts together all of the best climbing in this area of the crag. Well protected throughout and only marred by some of the suspect rock in common with System Z. Start below the major groove-line, which leads up to roofs at 12m. Climb the groove past two low pegs to a bolt and an ash stump at the base of the prominent crack. Ease up and with protection from a high second bolt break out diagonally leftwards. Step up with difficulty to a third bolt and cross over to a peg in the main-groove line of System Z. Climb this hollow groove carefully to a suspect bulge and surmount it gently to gain the solid slab above. With added protection from a peg out to the right keep tightly to the corner and pull up over a small roof (peg and in-situ thread) to a ledge and further peg beneath a steep wall of compact rock. Climb this wall past a bolt and move slightly left to a final bolt on the Chepstow Zombie Finish. Abseil station above on the right.

Varied and absorbing. Climb the open groove to a pair of peg runners (wires down on the left and immediately above). Pull up leftwards (various gear) then step out right onto the overhang to reach a peg runner and in-situ thread just above. Climb the right-side of the prominent elongated hole past a bolt runner (and good wire above) then finish delicately, with a quicker pulse, on much smoother rock to a shared double ring abseil station.

Originally E2 5b. Re-cleaned and re-equipped, with an extra peg added in 2012. Abseil station re-located to the left.

A last great problem of the quarry.

Start just beyond the double fence. Only gear is 2 new bolts plus new bolt belay. Climb boldly to first bolt and make insecure move at the overlap. Clip next bolt and make tricky moves at next overlap and run it out to the 2nd bolt belay.

Good value and a bit tricky in places following the line of least resistance through the steepening wall. Start one metre right of the green-railed fence. Climb delicately up to a small bulge, reach over to a good handrail and clip a bolt runner on the right. Climb a short easy slab to a more menacing bulge (wire placement and two peg runners) then step left and pull over, crux, to ease into a small niche with a black borehole (good wires and optional big hex). Break out, up and right, into a comfy alcove (bomber gear) and step around a very sharp arête (take care with the ropes!). The shared double ring abseil station is just above.

Originally E1 5a. Re-cleaned, with an extra peg and bolt added in 2012.

1. E3 5b, 15m.

2. XS 4c, 10m.

An excellent pitch on superb rock. The start is a touch bold. Start on a belay ledge up and right from the larger belay ledge at the base of The Corpse. Step up to a smaller ledge on the right and from its left side boldly climb leftwards from a vertical borehole with a low peg at its base, to good holds. A stretch gains a jug and further good, but concealed holds that lead up and then leftwards to a junction with the ledge at the base of the upper corner of The Corpse. Now head rightwards up the pleasant narrow groove to easier ground and a big tree belay.

The original line and easiest variant in Steve Monks guide. Climb the first half of Troillus Left Hand and the second half of Troillus Direct.

This fine route finesses the gap between Maltravers and Maladjusted with its delicate climbing in the middle section and offers excellent rough rock in its upper wall. In style, length and position it is a worthy addition to Main Wall, and will improve in its upper part for use.

Follow Maladjusted until below to the (current) third peg. Move delicately right to a sloping brown ledge then balance up just left of Maltravers until moves left into a niche (peg on the left). Move up slightly right till near a high peg on the right, then step left into a niche and rejoin Maladjusted, following it to the peg in the groove above the overhang. Continue straight up through the botanical bay, then directly up the pleasant rough wall passing the overhang on its right to a very sound whitebeam belay.

An Avon rite of passage. Good climbing with a bold feel, although the gear improves as height is gained. Start at a peg and nut belay on a high ledge reached via the initial 9m of Pink Ginsane's first pitch. Take the easy-angled groove above the belay to a peg. Step up above the peg and pull out left onto the wall, good small nut. Move up and bridge right to a point below an overhang with pegs below it. Pull over the overhang, good nut in borehole, to a peg before moving down right and then up to an overhang, peg and another good nut. Traverse left below the overhang past a peg to a stance at a quarry spike and bolt. Finish up Think Pink or abseil off.

1. 5a, 27m.

2. 5b, 30m.

A bold, airy and super sustained voyage. Start at a small tree on a ledge down and right of Malbogies.

1. 5b, 23m. Move up the blunt rib on the left to gain the right end of an overlap (small cams in the break). Move up right past the right side of the overlap (peg), and then back left to a side-pull and wire. Head up to join and follow Malbogies to its first stance.

2. 5b, 28m. Down climb from the stance for 5m and traverse left on good holds before moving up to good small wires. Move left again and then down to a small overhung niche. Reach left to good holds and move up to a peg. Climb a groove (peg) to the overhang and traverse left for 6m to a peg and large cam belay.

3. 5b, 26m. Traverse back right for 3m to a gap in the overhangs and make a puzzling move up to get established above them. Climb the groove and wall on its left past various pegs to an overhang and move out left around the blunt arete. Finish up the easier wall.

1. 5b, 20m.

2. 5b, 35m.

1. 5b, 25m.

2. 5b, 20m.

3. 4a, 15m.

1. 5c, 25m.

2. 4c, 18m.

3. 5b, 15m.

1. 5b, 35m.

2. 5b, 30m.

1. 5c, 20m.

2. 5b, 20m.

3. Easy, 12m.

1. 5b, 40m.

2. Easy, 15m.

1. 5b, 40m.

2. Easy, 15m.

An unprotected one-move wonder.

1. 5b, 25m.

2. 5a/b, 30m.

Much harder since rock clearance work.

1. 4c, 20m.

2. 5b, 15m. Peg not in place.

The wall between the arete of 'Ali G minor' and pocketed features of 'A1 Funk'. Start about a metre left of the arete. Gain the break (medium cam), rock up onto it to reach a small wire using a flat edge above broken rock. Continue above to top out via a thread (2-bolt abseil station up and left).

1. 5a, 20m.

2. 5b, 18m.