Jamestown Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Josh Ryan chris Jerry Stewart Erica Leonardi

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Jamestown 65 in Crag
- 1.1. Game Wall 13 in Sector
- 1.2. Froot Loops Wall 8 in Sector
- 1.3. Amateur Wall 4 in Sector
- 1.4. Pagan Wall 9 in Sector
- 1.5. Bad Llama Wall 4 in Sector
- 1.6. The Cabinet Boulder 1 in Boulder
- 1.7. Gates of Hell Boulder 2 in Boulder
- 1.8. Psycho Wall 13 in Sector
- 1.9. Disaster Wall 7 in Sector
- 1.10. Root Wall 2 in Sector
- 1.11. Cactus Wall 2 in Sector
2. Index by grade

1. Jamestown 65 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sazonalidade

Escalada esportiva e Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 35.665467, -91.757308

sumário

Moderate sport climbing on good Arkansas sandstone.

questões de acesso

The Climbing area is on the Jamestown Wildlife Management Area. The last section of the road in is leased to a logging company. While you can pass through, be careful not to park beyond the orange gate beyond nightfall. It's not known when the gate may be locked or unlocked, so it's best to park before it (again watching for logging trucks and avoiding them).

acesso

From the intersection of Hwy 167 and Hwy 230, take Hwy 230 west for 5 miles. Take a left (south) on Jamestown Loop Rd. Continue on Jamestown Loop Rd for 3 and a bit miles and turn right on an unmarked dirt road just past a Jametown W.M.A sign. Follow the road for 2 miles to hit the cliffs (but be wary of the Access issues).

onde ficar

Motels in Batesville. Camping is allowed in the W.M.A. areas, but be sure to park outside the orange gate and off the road as logging trucks will use it at times.

1.1. Game Wall 13 routes in Sector

Summary:: Escalada trad e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 35.666641, -91.757956

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Checkmate FA: Mark Mobley	5.10b	Sport 50ft, 6
2	Chimney Route No Anchors. FA: Scott Shankle	5.5	Trad 45ft
3	★ Candy Land FA: Mark Mobley	5.7	Sport 40ft, 5
4	★ Chutes and Ladders FA: Mark Mobley	5.6	Sport 40ft, 5
5	Cry Me a River FA: Mark Mobley	5.9	Trad 40ft
6	Two Bloody Knuckles FA: Mark Mobley	5.8	Mixed trad 50ft, 2
7	Comatose FA: Mark Mobley	5.9	Trad 50ft
8	Three Amigos Located a couple minutes to the climber's right from Comatose. FA: Mark Mobley	5.10b	Sport 40ft, 4
9	★ Wet Dreams FA: Mark Mobley	5.12a	Sport 45ft, 5
10	Grunge Fest FA: Andrew Williamson	5.11c	Sport 45ft, 7
11	Funky Monkey FA: Jim Steele	5.6	Trad 40ft
12	Spank the Monkey FA: Mark Mobley	5.9	Trad 40ft
13	Comedy Crack FA: Michael Mobley	5.6	Trad 50ft

1.2. Froot Loops Wall 8 routes in Sector

Summary:: Mostly Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 35.666107, -91.757566

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Smarty Pants FA: Mark Mobley	5.8	Sport 60ft, 5
2	Crawford Village Idiot FA: Landon Kramer	5.6	Mixed trad 55ft, 2
3	★ Say No to Bush FA: Mark Mobley	5.10b	Sport 55ft, 5
4	Dodo Bird FA: Andrew Williamson	5.10c	Sport 40ft, 4
5	★ Froot Loops FA: Mark Mobley	5.10a	Sport 40ft, 4
6	★★★ Pee Green FA: Mark Mobley	5.9	Sport 45ft, 4
7	Dicken Around FA: Mike Dicken	5.10b	Sport 45ft, 5
8	Don't Push It FA: Mark Mobley	5.9	Sport 45ft, 6

1.3. Amateur Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:: Escalada trad e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 35.665979, -91.757428

	Route	Grade	Style
1	The Amateur FA: Mark Mobley, 2000	5.7	Sport 40ft, 5
2	★ New Tattoo FA: Jim Steele & Robert Holmes	5.8	Sport 35ft, 4
3	Sarah's Crack No Anchors.	5.5	Trad 35ft
4	Exodus Face climb. Top anchors are not equipped for lowering unless you leave gear. Common route to rap down from the road. FA: Mark Mobley	5.4	Trad 40ft

1.4. Pagan Wall 9 routes in Sector

Summary:: Escalada esportiva e Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 35.665486, -91.757157

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★ Pagan on Sunday FA: Mark Mobley	5.7	Sport 55ft, 6
2	Pagan on Monday FA: Mark Mobley	5.8	Mixed trad 45ft, 2
3	Hamster in Ham No Anchors. FA: Jim Steele	5.6	Trad 45ft
4	Hot for Teacher FA: Michael Dicken	5.8	Sport 55ft, 5
5	Midgy Me No Anchors. FA: Mark Mobley	5.10a	Trad 45ft
6	Wham Bam Thank You Ma'am FA: Mark Mobley	5.9	Sport 50ft, 5
7	This Ain't My First Rodeo FA: Andrew Williamson	5.10b	Sport 55ft, 7
8	Strawberry Shortcake FA: Joe Grossman	5.13a	Sport 75ft, 10
9	F.O.A. FA: Mark Mobley & Jim Steele	5.11b	Sport 75ft, 2, 10

1.5. Bad Llama Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:: Escalada esportiva e Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 35.664721, -91.756952

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Jammin Fingers FA: Mark Mobley	5.10d	Sport 30ft, 3
2	Bad Llama FA: Robert Sinclair	5.10a	Sport 45ft, 6
3	Flammin' Piss FA: Mark Mobley	5.10c	Sport 75ft, 8
4	Festering Crabs FA: Jim Steele	5.7	Trad 85ft

1.6. The Cabinet Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:: All Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 35.664150, -91.757146

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★ Bull In a China Cabinet Could be done as a highball boulder problem. FA: Matt Reedy	5.12c	Sport 20ft, 3

1.7. Gates of Hell Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:: All Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 35.663966, -91.756558

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		My Big Ten Inch FA: Mark Mobley	5.11a	Sport 30ft, 3
2		★ Mike Tyson's Ear Binge FA: Andrew Williamson	5.12a	Sport 25ft, 3

1.8. Psycho Wall 13 routes in Sector

Summary:: Escalada esportiva e Escalada trad

Lat / Long: 35.664242, -91.756741

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Original Recipe FA: Mark Mobley	5.8	Sport 35ft, 3
2	Shivers Me Timber FA: Mark Mobley, 2009	5.9	Trad 35ft
3	Hillbilly Justice FA: Jim Steele	5.9	Trad 35ft
4	Flying Puppies FA: Mark Mobley	5.10a	Sport 35ft, 4
5	Flying Dogs FA: Jim Steele	5.9	Sport 40ft, 4
6	Don't Stretch It FA: Mike Wintroath	5.11a	Sport 40ft, 4
7	One-Eyed Monster FA: Mark Mobley	5.11a	Sport 30ft, 3
8	Psycho FA: Andrew Williamson	5.11a	Sport 35ft, 4
9	Shower Power FA: Mark Mobley	5.10c	Sport 35ft, 4
10	Double Edged Sword Left Start with the left crack and head on up. FA: Mark Mobley	5.8	Mixed trad 40ft, 1
11	Double Edged Sword Right Start with the right crack and merge into the left crack halfway up. FA: Mark Mobley	5.8	Trad 40ft
12	Living on the Edge FA: Mark Mobley	5.10c	Sport 50ft, 6
13	Grim Reaper FA: Mark Mobley	5.10a	Sport 50ft, 6

1.9. Disaster Wall 7 routes in Sector

Summary:: Mostly Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 35.663866, -91.756361

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Flashflood FA: Robert Sinclair	5.8	Sport 35ft, 4
2	Landslide FA: Jim Steele	5.7	Trad 40ft
3	Heat Wave FA: Mark Mobley	5.8	Sport 35ft, 4
4	White Lightning FA: Mark Mobley	5.10a	Sport 35ft, 4
5	Atomic Twister FA: Michael Mobley	5.9	Sport 35ft, 4
6	Sampson's Revenge FA: Eric Williams	5.9	Sport 35ft, 4
7	Sampson's Finale FA: Chase Moore	5.7	Sport 35ft, 4

1.10. Root Wall 2 routes in Sector

Summary:: Escalada trad e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 35.663678, -91.756189

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		The Bald Man Games FA: Mark Mobley	5.10b	Sport 55ft, 5
2		Huggin the Roof FA: Mark Mobley	5.9	Trad 55ft

1.11. Cactus Wall 2 routes in Sector

Summary:: Escalada trad e Escalada esportiva

Lat / Long: 35.663796, -91.756491

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Mike Jr. No Anchors. FA: Michael Mobley	5.6	Trad 25ft
2		Cactus Joe FA: Joe Grossman	5.10b	Sport 25ft, 3

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style	Area
5.4		Exodus	Trad 40ft	1.3. Amateur Wall
5.5		Chimney Route	Trad 45ft	1.1. Game Wall
		Sarah's Crack	Trad 35ft	1.3. Amateur Wall
5.6	★	Chutes and Ladders	Sport 40ft, 5	1.1. Game Wall
		Comedy Crack	Trad 50ft	1.1. Game Wall
		Funky Monkey	Trad 40ft	1.1. Game Wall
		Crawford Village Idiot	Mixed trad 55ft, 2	1.2. Froot Loops Wall
		Hamster in Ham	Trad 45ft	1.4. Pagan Wall
		Mike Jr.	Trad 25ft	1.11. Cactus Wall
5.7	★	Candy Land	Sport 40ft, 5	1.1. Game Wall
		The Amateur	Sport 40ft, 5	1.3. Amateur Wall
	★★	Pagan on Sunday	Sport 55ft, 6	1.4. Pagan Wall
		Festering Crabs	Trad 85ft	1.5. Bad Llama Wall
		Landslide	Trad 40ft	1.9. Disaster Wall
		Sampson's Finale	Sport 35ft, 4	1.9. Disaster Wall
5.8		Two Bloody Knuckles	Mixed trad 50ft, 2	1.1. Game Wall
		Smarty Pants	Sport 60ft, 5	1.2. Froot Loops Wall
	★	New Tattoo	Sport 35ft, 4	1.3. Amateur Wall
		Hot for Teacher	Sport 55ft, 5	1.4. Pagan Wall
		Pagan on Monday	Mixed trad 45ft, 2	1.4. Pagan Wall
		Double Edged Sword Left	Mixed trad 40ft, 1	1.8. Psycho Wall
		Double Edged Sword Right	Trad 40ft	1.8. Psycho Wall
		Original Recipe	Sport 35ft, 3	1.8. Psycho Wall
		Flashflood	Sport 35ft, 4	1.9. Disaster Wall
		Heat Wave	Sport 35ft, 4	1.9. Disaster Wall
5.9		Comatose	Trad 50ft	1.1. Game Wall
		Cry Me a River	Trad 40ft	1.1. Game Wall
		Spank the Monkey	Trad 40ft	1.1. Game Wall
		Don't Push It	Sport 45ft, 6	1.2. Froot Loops Wall
	★★★	Pee Green	Sport 45ft, 4	1.2. Froot Loops Wall
		Wham Bam Thank You Ma'am	Sport 50ft, 5	1.4. Pagan Wall
		Flying Dogs	Sport 40ft, 4	1.8. Psycho Wall
		Hillbilly Justice	Trad 35ft	1.8. Psycho Wall
		Shivers Me Timber	Trad 35ft	1.8. Psycho Wall
		Atomic Twister	Sport 35ft, 4	1.9. Disaster Wall
		Sampson's Revenge	Sport 35ft, 4	1.9. Disaster Wall
		Huggin the Roof	Trad 55ft	1.10. Root Wall
5.10a	★	Froot Loops	Sport 40ft, 4	1.2. Froot Loops Wall
		Midgy Me	Trad 45ft	1.4. Pagan Wall
		Bad Llama	Sport 45ft, 6	1.5. Bad Llama Wall
		Flying Puppies	Sport 35ft, 4	1.8. Psycho Wall
		Grim Reaper	Sport 50ft, 6	1.8. Psycho Wall
		White Lightning	Sport 35ft, 4	1.9. Disaster Wall
5.10b		Checkmate	Sport 50ft, 6	1.1. Game Wall
		Three Amigos	Sport 40ft, 4	1.1. Game Wall
		Dicken Around	Sport 45ft, 5	1.2. Froot Loops Wall
	★	Say No to Bush	Sport 55ft, 5	1.2. Froot Loops Wall
		This Ain't My First Rodeo	Sport 55ft, 7	1.4. Pagan Wall
		The Bald Man Games	Sport 55ft, 5	1.10. Root Wall
		Cactus Joe	Sport 25ft, 3	1.11. Cactus Wall
5.10c		Dodo Bird	Sport 40ft, 4	1.2. Froot Loops Wall
		Flammin' Piss	Sport 75ft, 8	1.5. Bad Llama Wall
		Living on the Edge	Sport 50ft, 6	1.8. Psycho Wall
		Shower Power	Sport 35ft, 4	1.8. Psycho Wall
5.10d		Jammin Fingers	Sport 30ft, 3	1.5. Bad Llama Wall
5.11a		My Big Ten Inch	Sport 30ft, 3	1.7. Gates of Hell Boulder
		Don't Stretch It	Sport 40ft, 4	1.8. Psycho Wall
		One-Eyed Monster	Sport 30ft, 3	1.8. Psycho Wall
		Psycho	Sport 35ft, 4	1.8. Psycho Wall
5.11b		F.O.A.	Sport 75ft, 2, 10	1.4. Pagan Wall
5.11c		Grunge Fest	Sport 45ft, 7	1.1. Game Wall
5.12a	★	Wet Dreams	Sport 45ft, 5	1.1. Game Wall
	★	Mike Tyson's Ear Binge	Sport 25ft, 3	1.7. Gates of Hell Boulder
5.12c	★	Bull In a China Cabinet	Sport 20ft, 3	1.6. The Cabinet Boulder
5.13a		Strawberry Shortcake	Sport 75ft, 10	1.4. Pagan Wall