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Sierra Nevada
Northern Sierra Nevada
Lake Tahoe, California Side

These guides all document the history of Tahoe are climbs.

Climbing Guide to the Crystal Basin by Bob Branscomb. 1992.

(etc)

Northern Sierra Nevada Lake Tahoe, California Side
Bowman Valley

Mostly single-pitch sport climbing on granite faces. Directions, maps and FA info can be found in North Tahoe: A Rock Climber's Guide by Josh Horniak.

Northern Sierra Nevada Lake Tahoe, California Side Bowman Valley
Gas and Electric Crag

Small sport crag away from the main Bowman cliffs.

Northern Sierra Nevada Lake Tahoe, California Side Bowman Valley Gas and Electric Crag
5.8 Fossil Fuel

Go up the crack in the middle of the wall.

5.9 High Voltage

First bolted route to the right of Fossil Fuel.

5.9 Natural Gas

Farthest right bolted route.

5.10b/c Methane
5.11a The Tire Iron Affair
5.11a Shafted
Northern Sierra Nevada Lake Tahoe, California Side Bowman Valley
B Word
Northern Sierra Nevada Lake Tahoe, California Side Bowman Valley B Word
5.12a Nice Fuckin' Model
5.13a Bio-Exorcist
5.12c Handbook of the Recently Deceased
5.11d Juno Your Case Worker
5.12a We've Come For Your Daughter, Chuck
5.12b Beetlegeuse
5.11b Living with the Dead
5.11d Troubled by the Living
5.12d Hey Mait!
5.12d Maitland
5.12a/b Burlmaster
5.12c/d Altered Carbon
5.12a/b Word!
5.11c/d "the" Warm-Up!
Northern Sierra Nevada Lake Tahoe, California Side Bowman Valley
Candy Land
Northern Sierra Nevada Lake Tahoe, California Side Bowman Valley Candy Land
5.6 Nemo
5.7 unknown 5.7
5.8 Candy Land
5.9 unknown 5.9
5.10 unknown 5.10
5.9 Rock n Rolla
5.9 Cosmic Followers

Bolted route to the right of Rock n Rolla.

The Gumdrop

Large boulder just below the main Candy Land wall.

Northern Sierra Nevada Lake Tahoe, California Side Bowman Valley Candy Land The Gumdrop
5.8 Frank's Feet STill Stink

Obvious crack on the left side of the boulder.

5.10c Kung Fu Panda

First bolted route on the face to the left of the arete. Shares anchor with Gum Drop Arete.

5.10c Gum Drop Arete

Go up the arete on the right side of the boulder.

Northern Sierra Nevada Lake Tahoe, California Side Bowman Valley
The Fun House
Northern Sierra Nevada Lake Tahoe, California Side Bowman Valley The Fun House
5.6 Krusty the Clown
5.8 Pescadero

Second bolted route from the left between two water streaks.

5.6 The Fun House

Third bolted route from the left. Goes up the large black water streak.

5.7 Circus Tricks
5.10a unknown 1
5.8 unknown 2
5.8 unknown 3
unknown 4
5.9 Ronald

First bolted route on right side of wall where it starts to slope upward, to the left of the water streak by the tree.

5.8 Dope on a Rope

Right of Ronald, right of the water streak by the tree.

5.8 El Sasquatchito

Second bolted route to the right (uphill) of Ronald.

Northern Sierra Nevada Lake Tahoe, California Side Bowman Valley
Boy Scout Wall

Large south-facing clif to the west of the dam.

Northern Sierra Nevada Lake Tahoe, California Side Bowman Valley Boy Scout Wall
5.9 Pork Chop

Third bolted route from the left where the approach trail gains the ledge.

5.10b/c Merit Badge

First bolted route to the right of the large crack system in the middle of the wall. Take care with rope drag since anchors are set back on a ledge. Top belay recommended for second.

5.10b One-Run Game

Starts just right of Merit Badge.

5.10b Fix the Madness

To the left of Ham Salad (and shares and anchor with this route). 7th bolted route from the left. Begins in front of a large pine tree.

5.7 Ham Salad

To the right of Fix the Madness (with which it shares an anchor). Goes right, then left.

5.12a Sentient Turnip
5.11b Scout's Honor
5.10a Tecate
5.10b Bossy Pants
5.11a Lonestar
5.10b Be Prepared
5.11b Last Boy Scout
5.11d Road Kill
5.10c Flying The Coop
5.11b Mississippi Mud
Northern Sierra Nevada Lake Tahoe, California Side Bowman Valley
Rediscovery Dome Left

West Facing Slabby Wall. Excellent winter climbing if the road is open. Warm to hot in the summer so start early or wait til evening. Goes into the sun at 10 am.

Northern Sierra Nevada Lake Tahoe, California Side Bowman Valley Rediscovery Dome Left
5.7 Old Cranks

This is the far left crack climb. It is 5.7 or so. Easy and straight forward but good for working your trad skills. Standard rack with nuts and mid to smaller cams.

5.10b Inferno

Thin face at bottom crux leads to technical climbing in the middle. Another crux getting on a ramp. Do not go to anchor for "Unknown Trad Climb". Go straight up through easy climbing past two more bolts to anchor.

Climb is just to the right of Unknown Trad Climb. 1st bolt on this route and the first bolt on "Dancing with the Devil" are close together. Use first bolt on left.

5.11a PG13 Dancing With The Devil

Thin slab and face climb that's a little run out. Fun moves going from first to second bolt. Crux in the middle. You can set up a top rope from Inferno.

First bolt is only 4' right of the first bolt on Inferno.

5.10b Shangr-La

climb off-set seam up face above on positive edges. excellent face climbing. just left of thin air crack.

5.8 Thin Air

Face to thin crack then past roof block middle of wall.

Thin to med pro, somewhat run out. Belay at bolts with mussy, up right.

5.10c X Todd Vogel Route

This is an old Todd Vogel route done in 79' or 80' it features hard moves to a first bolt (spinner) then 5.10 past it. the next section is X and may have tiny wires or available pin placements up to another old rusty bolt. More sustained steep slab to a fixed KB in a seam, then up and right to the anchor for Cheers and Jeers.

Quite a bold lead, bitd, I talked to Todd about it recently and it can be left to rust but others should respect the style of the FA (while it lasts) and not squeeze routes in next to it at this time.

2 bolts, FP and tiny wires or pins. Don't start up this one unless you are willing to solo it.

5.10a/b Cheers and Jeers

steep moves lead to stellar slab climbing on small to medium edges.

5.8 Bataphobia

Easy face with fun moves at the top.Up the ramp on the right to the farthest climb.

Northern Sierra Nevada Lake Tahoe, California Side Bowman Valley
Rediscovery Dome Right

West Facing Slabby Wall. Excellent winter climbing if the road is open. Warm to hot in the summer so start early. Goes into the sun at 10 am.

Northern Sierra Nevada Lake Tahoe, California Side Bowman Valley Rediscovery Dome Right
5.10b/c Middle Earth

Easy moves to headwall then 20 feet of fun, technical climbing. Short but worthwhile.

5.11- Scares Bears

First climb on left side of face. Start 6 feet left of first bolt, climb up and right to first bolt.

5.10d PG13 Crooked Bowtie

Crux at start. Some of the clips are a little spicy.

5.11b/c Slipstream

Long fun climb. If you cheat the crux in the middle it's 11b. If you don't it's 11c.

5.7 Too Short

Brad: Short route. Don't know why we put this up. John: I know, because it's a great but short route.

5.10b Pushing Tin

Slabby face. Mussy's up top.

5.11c Don't Speak, Just Listen

right most route on Rediscovery dome right. climb through three increasingly difficult bulges.

Northern Sierra Nevada Lake Tahoe, California Side Bowman Valley
Bowman Bouldering
Northern Sierra Nevada Lake Tahoe, California Side Bowman Valley Bowman Bouldering
Rapid Boulder
Northern Sierra Nevada Lake Tahoe, California Side Bowman Valley Bowman Bouldering Rapid Boulder
V0- Rapid Crack
Northern Sierra Nevada Lake Tahoe, California Side Bowman Valley Bowman Bouldering
Sub-Area 1
Northern Sierra Nevada Lake Tahoe, California Side Bowman Valley Bowman Bouldering Sub-Area 1
V8 Riding Around And Lichen It!!
Northern Sierra Nevada Lake Tahoe, California Side Bowman Valley
The Cove
Northern Sierra Nevada Lake Tahoe, California Side Bowman Valley The Cove
5.8 PG13 Flumetastic Voyage
5.7 Flume With A View
5.7 Flumetastic
5.8 V0 Lol
5.9 V1 Bolting Ban
5.7 Pulp Friction
5.8 Bat Company
5.10c Long Shot
5.11 Open Project
5.11c Vision Quest
5.12a Predator

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