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Mount Saint Helena
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
The Bubble
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The Bubble |
5.8
★★ Sunset
Far left most route. Two bolt anchor with carabiners. One is a locker. |
5.8
Fistful of Hueco
Climb up and right to the middle of the face. Two bolt anchor with quick links. |
5.6
Dirty Harry
Lead Fistful of Hueco to the left and then setup a top rope by scrambling around the tree. Two bolt Anchor |
5.9
Face Left
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
5.8
★ Bubble Slab
Pocketed slab makes a great warm up for other routes on the Bubble. Crux is a reach around the 2nd bolt. Top anchor is on one good bolt and two old button heads. There are no rap-rings or chains, so your final descent will be a walk-off. |
5.7
★ Face Right
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
5.5
★ Chimney
No top anchor. Small to medium pro suffices. |
5.11a
★★ Solar Power
Reachy, pocketed face climbing to 2-bolt top anchor. |
5.10d
★ West Face
Easier pocketed face climbing leads to crux moves at a hollow-sounding flake atop the arête. Consider stick-clipping the first bolt. Mind the poison oak. Above the top anchor, a second higher set of chains is visible. These chains are appropriate for top-roping the west face; however, lead climbing to the higher anchors is poorly protected and less interesting, therefore also not recommended. |
5.10d
★★ The Ladder
Cruise up the well-protected overhanging parade of huecos to crux moves on sharp 1- and 2-finger pockets that will make you question the published grade. The rest ledge becomes menacing once you move into tenuous climbing on the upper face. Popular variations move right or left after the 4th bolt to finish on neighboring routes, avoiding the sharp pockets, crux moves, and potential ledge fall. |
5.10b
★★ The Old Ladder
Perhaps the funnest route at the Bubble, with massive jug-filled huecos yielding a variety of overhanging no-hands rests. Bolted April 2012. Chain top anchor. |
5.11b
★★ Bubble Boy
Overhanging huecos and pockets make this a memorable route. Gets it grade from height-dependent crux below the first bolt. |
5.10c PG13
★★★ Bubble Boy (var.)
This popular variation avoids the low crux the regular route. Unfortunately, if you're too short for the regular route, you might also be too short to clip the first bolt from the left. Consider a clip stick, or else be careful if you skip that first bolt. |
5.10d
★★ Unknown 5.10d
Start right of the 'Bubble Boy'[18575347] cave with crux moves up the small overhanging arête. Stay right of 'Bubble Boy'[18575347], pulling over bulges onto pocketed faces. Finish on the pair of cracks before moving left to the top anchor. |
5.10d
Unknown 5.10d crack
Highball start. Pro to 3.5" |
5.10a
On the Road
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5.11d PG13
★ Catchy
Pull the low bulge then move up on pocketed slab to the next bulge and the crux. Unless this route has been rebolted, slab sections are runout. |
5.10d
★ Right Climb
Mixed variation of 'Catchy'[18575467] that moves right into the chimney instead of over the bulge. Watch for loose rocks in the chimney. |
Crystal Pocket Area
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Crystal Pocket Area |
5.10a
★ Crystal Pockets
2-bolt top anchor. |
5.11a
★★ Bearclaw
2-bolt top anchor. |
5.10c
Pick Pocket
2-bolt top anchor. |
The Bear
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The Bear |
5.10b
★★ Kidnapped
First 2 bolts shared with 'Jekyll & Hyde'[18573613]. Continues left to chain top anchor. |
5.10a
★★ Bear Fingers
Diagonal crack leads up and left. Hand-jam through the crux. Rock quality improves halfway up. Chain top anchor shared with 'Kidnapped'[18573565]. The original route uses the first two bolts of 'Kidnapped'[18573565]/'Jekyll & Hyde'[18573613], but it can be led with only traditional protection by sticking to the crack. Pro to 1.5", with the option for larger gear near the bottom. |
5.10b
★★ Jekyll & Hyde
Runout can be mitigated with an optional 0.5"-0.75" cam. Cold shut top anchor. |
5.10b
★ Silverado Squatters
Start at the base of 'Bear Fingers'[220123827] and follow jugs over the steepest line up the face. Finish on the short finger crack to cold shut top anchors. A variation on this route moves right before the finger crack to the last bolt and top anchors of 'Rampage'[18573727]. |
5.10c
★★ Rampage
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
5.11c
★★ Beast of Burden
Face climbing variation of the Beast. Starts left of the hand crack. |
5.11c
★★ The Beast
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
5.12c
★★ Jason And The Argonauts
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5.12b
★★ Swallow My Pride
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
5.12a
★★ Kill Uncle
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
5.12b
★★★ Kill Uncle Direct Start
Direct start variation of 'Kill Uncle'[18574087], left of the original start. Stick-clip the first bolt and pull through the crux moves. |
5.10b
★★ Lower Arête
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
5.10a
★ Mark's Moderate
Runout on the second pitch can be mitigated with 0.75-2" cams. Watch for loose rock, especially at the top, and wear a helmet. To descend, either (a) walk off to Crystal Pockets area, or (b) rappel from 'Theodore Roosevelt'[18574363] to the first belay anchor, then rappel again to the ground. |
5.9
★ Theodore Roosevelt
Starts from a 2-bolt anchor left of top anchor for the 1st pitch of 'Mark's Moderate'[18574279]. Face climbing along pockets up the gray streak to a 2-bolt top anchor. Watch for loose rock at the top, and be mindful of those down below. |
5.10d
★★ Black Hole Sun
Start in a corner, then move up and right with a crux move getting over the bulge. |
5.11b
★ Old And In The Way
Thin face climbing. Crux comes early with a difficult crimps at the first bolt. |
5.12a
★ The Bear's Choice
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
5.11b
★ Napa Valley Party Service
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
5.12a
★★ Stone Free
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
5.10c
Kodiak
Climb along thin seams to chains at the base of 'Bear Arête'[18574927]. |
5.11d
★ Smash n' Grab
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5.10a
★ Bear Crack
Doubles of pro 1"-4" |
5.11c
★ Bear Arête
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5.12a
★★★ Body Snatcher
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
5.11c
Polar Bear Spire
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
5.7 PG13
Ursa Major
Pro to 5". |
5.9
★ Ursa Minor
Pro to 3.5" |
5.11b
★ Wayne's World
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
5.7
★ Bear Cub Crack
Belay second from tree. Walk off. Pro 2"-4" |
The Far Side
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The Far Side |
Lower Tier
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The Far Side Lower Tier |
5.10d
★ Better Eat Your Wheaties
Runout between 1st and 2nd bolt. New (2010) 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Feelin Your Oats'[18577015]. |
5.9
Chockaholic
Chimney left of 'Saviour Heart'[18576793]. Wide pro. |
5.10a R
Death to the Right
New (2010) 2-bolt top anchor with rap rings shared with 'Step to the Left'[18577141]. |
5.10a
★ Feelin' Your Oats
New (2010) 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Better Eat Your Wheaties'[18576937]. |
5.9
★ Jardinero
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
5.10a
★ Mystery Hole
Bolted line left of 'Saviour Heart'[18576793]. First bolt is high but can be protected with gear. (This is probably the unnamed 3-star 5.9 (#19) in 'Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area'.) |
5.8
★ New Tradition
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
5.9
★ Saviour Heart
Runout can be mitigated with some larger cams. |
5.6
Squeeze Chimney
Climb the chimney left of 'Shute-Mills'[18576619] and finish on the last 2 bolts of 'New Tradition'[220416858]. Highball start. Pro to 2". |
5.9
★★★ Shute-Mills Route
The first bolt is high and above the crux, which can be optionally protected with a small cam. 3-bolt top anchor. |
5.8
★ Something Good
Starts on blunt arête left of 'Step to the Left'[18577141]. One pin and 3 bolts. |
5.8 R
★ Step to the Left
New (2010) 2-bolt top anchor with rap rings shared with 'Death to the Right'[220430406]. |
5.9
★★ The Pile
Climb the pillar, then link up with 'New Tradition'[220416858] or 'Shute-Mills'[18576619]. Blocks on the pillar may not be very stable. Pro to 2". |
5.10a
★★ Seymour Frishberg
Runout between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Can be mitigated with 0.75"-1.5" cams. 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Boneless Chicken Ranch'[18575779]. |
5.11b
★★ Boneless Chicken Ranch
Runout near the top can be mitigated with pro. 2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Seymour Frishberg'[18575701]. |
5.9
★ Bushy Crack
Crack between 'Something Good'[220428813] and 'Step to the Left'[18577141]. Highball start. Pro to 2". |
5.10a
★ Cereal Killer
2-bolt top anchor on a ledge with rap rings. |
5.5
Initiation Rite
Starts as a second pitch above 'Shute-Mills'[18576619]. 3-bolt top anchor shared with 'The Chief'[18576565] and 'War Party'[18576505]. Pro: large cams for the crack. |
The Far Side |
Middle Tier
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
The Far Side Middle Tier |
5.10d
★★ At Last
2-bolt top anchor with rap rings. |
5.10c
★★ Atlas
Rap rings for top anchor. |
5.10a R
★ Atlas Shrugged
2-bolt top anchor with rap rings (replaced 2010). |
5.10c
★★ The Chief
3-bolt top anchor with 2 new (2012) rap rings. Top anchor shared with 'War Party'[18576505]. |
5.11b
War Party
3-bolt top anchor with 2 new (2012) rap rings. Top anchor shared with 'The Chief'[18576565]. |
5.8
★ Far
2 bolts down low lead to pocketed face climbing to a 2-bolt top anchor. |
5.10a
★ Far Out
2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Farther'[220437738]. |
5.8
Farther
2-bolt top anchor shared with 'Far Out'[220436832]. |
5.8
The Chickens are Breastless
2-bolt top anchor. |
5.8
★★ The Chickens are Restless
2-bolt top anchor. |
5.11c
★★ Synchronicity
2-bolt top anchor. |
5.7 PG13
★ Old Tradition
2-bolt top anchor. Pro up to 2". The slab (5.8) and arête (5.10a) to the right can be toporoped from this top anchor. These are the two unnamed 2-star top-rope routes in "Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area". |
5.8
★ Top-rope (Slab)
From the top anchors of 'Old Tradition'[220464162], top-rope the slab to the right. Further right you can top-rope the 'arête'[18576745]. (This is the unnamed 5.8 "Toprope route" (#12) in "Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area".) |
5.10a
★ Top-rope (Arête)
From the top anchors of 'Old Tradition'[220464162], top-rope the arête to the right, past the 'slab'[220494351]. (This is the unnamed 5.10 "Toprope route" (#13) in "Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area".) |
5.6 PG13
Planet of the Grapes
Pro to 2.5". No top anchor. |
The Far Side |
Upper Tier
For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition. |
The Far Side Upper Tier |
5.9 PG13
★ Separation Anxiety
Cold shuts top anchor shared with 'Kola'[18576091]. |
5.9
★★ Kola
Cold shuts top anchor shared with 'Separation Anxiety'[16446595]. |
5.7
Hummingbird Spire (North Crack)
Top anchor is a single bolt with a quicklink and a crack for natural pro. |
5.9
Hummingbird Spire (South Crack)
Top anchor is a single bolt. |
5.9/10a PG13
★ Two-Bolt Slab
An additional third bolt can be used to belay the second before a 4th class scramble and 3rd class walk off. (This route may be the unnamed 2-star 5.10a (#5) in 'Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area'.) |
5.6
Left Behind
Climb the crack to the right of 'Two-Bolt Slab'[18575983]. Natural top anchor and 4th class walk off. Pro up to 1.5". |
5.11d
★ Unknown 2
Clip-stick the first bolt. 2-bolt top anchor with no rings (walk off). (This is the 2-star unnamed 5.11d (#6) in 'Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area'.) |
5.10a
★★ Sport Roof Right
2-bolt top anchor with no rings (walk off). (This is the 2-star unnamed 5.10a (#5) in 'Rock Climbing the San Francisco Bay Area'.) |
The Far Side |
Far Side Gallery
Newly developed area of the Far Side. All three routes share a 2-bolt top anchor. |