Vias em The Meadows

Direct start to Bad Seed

The far left end of the wall.

Scramble up an easy ramp to the first bolt. Move up through to the crux and top out.

After a few bolts up "Thou Shalt Not Covet", breaks left to the "Student Loan" anchors. Often top-roped, or can be lead with gear.

Partial retrobolt of 'The Coveted'. Break right at the top.

Hard start off the ground, then rest is easier.

Look for a fairly obvious low ledge. Climb onto this, then up the bolt line above.

Tackling bulge below anchors on the left would be closer to 5.9+.

Starts at the edge of the blocky ground on the right.

Go up the slab.

This line goes up and rightwards up a less than vertical face parallelling the edge of the wall as it drops off into a bit of a gully.

Be careful top-roping this route -- a fall can easily swing off the route into the gully, and even following has some risk.

Dunno which route in the 2009 guide book is "New Route" -- the ascents with dates were in 2004, so likely this has got a name, now.

Start in the low-angle corner and climb the easy face just to the corner's left, finishing with a stem across below the anchors. (A bit run-out at the top for a 5.4 leader.)

This route no longer really exists -- it was originally a mixed bolt & trad route that has been re-bolted and straightened out by Jim Shimberg, and is now the route "Hippos on Parade".

Ward Smith's guide book (2009), which looks to be the book to use at Rumney (as of spring 2012), has no mention of a route with this name anywhere at Rumney, and nothing at this or close grade in the Meadows with a name at all similar.

Route starts by traversing in from the right towards the first bolt, rather than pulling directly from below. (Direct start is in the 5.10-5.11 range depending on how direct.)

Start up some un-protected but easy slab to the left-leaning flake and follow the flake to bolted anchors. Generally well-protected except the start.

A wandering route that is not climbed anymore.

Now a sport route

The obvious dihedral with crack in the back. Want gear up to a #4 friend. Lower-offs.

Actually 2nd pitch, continuing above anchors for "Holderness Arete" on 2 bolts and gear.

Beginning is rather easy and uneventful, but last 25' is fun, pumpy, sustained, & slightly overhanging with lots of jugs...watch out for the wasp nest near start of overhanging area to the left on a great hold.

9 Bolts to LO. Start behind a double-trunked oak, and climb the nice face past Rumney-style pockets.