Ascensões em World como sport por Sasha

That high left foot at the end of the crux popped but juuust after I hit the landing hold and so could somehow hold on. That LH crimp in the middle of the crux is maybe one of the smallest things I’ve ever held

Sort of hate that start mantle thing, but enjoyed the relatively easy middle. Didn’t manage to figure out how to stick the LH crimp from the flat jug at second to last bolt. The low feet are too low and the high ones are too high 😅 was very tired by then though. One to try again

Got 1.5 tie-ins before the sun hit and it became impossible. Still pretty much going bolt to bolt but found a better beta for the very end of the traverse

Really nice and consistent, easy on the fingers. Just pleasant climbing

3rd shot, 1st RP go after figuring out lip pull beta.

The beta: RF heel hooks pyramid while walking hands up on left sidepull until RH is on a crimp on top, toe LF to back of pyramid to make cut more controlled, cut feet and place RF on big edge on lip, throw RH to sloperjug. Then walk hands up and hold it together until the rest.

Really brawny somewhat inelegant crux beta, but it’s the first rock climb I’ve ever sent with an actual toehook, so that’s pretty cool!

End of day attempt. Got my lower body too deep in the cave to reach the ear shaped jug on the face. Once that’s done it’s not too bad

Route has a similar flavour to Supercal: not too hard introductory climbing, an ante-crux that ensures you’re not entering the crux fresh, then gnarly crux on crimps followed by a droppable exit then kneebar. Then pumpy climbing to top with potential heartbreaker right at the anchors. Definitely skip crux clip, like on Supercal too

Easier than Supercal though and probably less connie-dependent since the crux crimps are smaller but less polished. Will eat your skin real quick for the same reason, though.

Linked start of crux to touching the anchor and falling out of pump rather than clip 😅 was way too hot for this though.

Found a way to clip the crux draw that totally won’t be desperate on link or anything like that. Not much progress otherwise.

A sixpack and my firstborn for crux beta for this. (Fingerlock?)

Super classy hardish move at second bolt. Crux is the whole traverse, but especially going RH to glued on crimp rail thingy and then matching it (and then clipping somehow? lol). Another heartbreaker move right before the cave under the anchor. So much harder than it looks from the ground. My brain will never learn that big chalk =/= big hold.

Believe the hype. Possibly best 24 ever? Though I could see how it would be physically impossible for someone with less than my 170cm span.

🥳🥳🥳 12-13 sessions overall between last year and this.

Went up to try to link ground through crux. Did it and surprised myself by climbing to 5th bolt and taking before the big move before the sideways jugs rest, a really encouraging high point. 😃 connies were also 👌 today.

Baby steps. Ground up high point hitting the LH slot thing between bolts 2 and 3 badly and not being able to move from it. Linking that move from ground feels like the hardest thing. Also linked from break to anchor (in the sun 🥵) something to feel good about 🎉

Forgot what I did on the first half and spent half the session re-learning it. Refined top half beta. Everything is static, guess I’m not a shortarse?

First time back on it this year, relearning the moves and changing a few with some new beta from others. Feeling pretty good on it today.

Me on the slab “god I must suck at slab”. Me 3 meters later “god I must suck at steep”. 😀

Still so good. Low crux felt easier. High crux felt harder. Start roof boulder felt the same (nails 😅)

Could not do start boulder 2 years ago. Could do it now 😀

Yay! Almost blew it by clipping the last bolt before anchor rather than skipping it: instant pump x1000.

Second shot. So cool and techy. Anchor clip beta: meatwrap hold on flake with RH, high left foot and flag right or find a far right footer. Super stable, no jug needed

Crux is big bump from pocket to jug between 1st and 2nd bolt. Then pumpy until the anchor. Easy to fall looking for anchor clipping jug (there isn’t one!) and peeling off greasy mossy slopers instead.

Like a reverse boulder problem: start with sketchy slabby mantle topout, then climb a steep one mover.

One lap to equip and try and fail to do what I think I did last time at the crux. Wasted tons of energy then did something else at the crux. Then two RP attempts passing the crux and peeling off halfway through the crimp ladder second half. Needs + endurance and brains, - heat.

Easy until suddenly it isn’t.

This is indeed a cute slab.

With a name like this, it was fitting for me to eventually climb this route. Need good headgame for getting to the second bolt calmly. Then a nice techy crux higher up

Had definitely tried this years ago but day-flashed it (is day-flash still a thing or have the ethics police come for that term?). At the time I thought the crux was hard for the grade… it probably is.

Cruxy slab. Either crimp hard or find a way to stand up

Really hard move at the third bolt (get bunchy then stand up and lunge with RH). The rest is sustained but nothing too hard. Will come back for it

I can’t heel hook for shit so had to do some alternate beta.

So stoked I can finally stop queuing up for this thing. Even more stoked that the shoulder isn’t complaining much (having an intact labrum is aid 😎)

Refined microbeta for going to LH crimp that works even when I’m cooked. Too bad it was too hot for me to ever get the chance to try it on link!

Fell on the move to LH crimp 3 times. One move a session. I guess if this keeps up I’ll send 3 sessions from now?

Tickled the RH crux slot 3/4 times 😭

Forearms in actual pain at the anchor.

Session 4. Not feeling strong today but worked it the best I could. New crux beta with very high, very right and pretty marginal RF (tried to use Gabriele G’s foot here and found myself 20cm short of the landing hold on the deadpoint 🥲 so needed to decide a smeary thing above it would be my RF here). Probably have all the sequences dialled, but it’s two steps forward and one step back because Gabriele G sent and so have to place my own draws from now on 😭