Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Qualidade | |||
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Sun 4th Aug 2019 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Franchard Cuisinière Crête Sud Off circuit boulders | ||||||
7A+ | ★★ Wu-Tang | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Should have onsighted/flashed, but heel rolled off the dirt going for the top. Bugger. Falling with my back/bum onto the rock below hurt Fun route - wish more in Bleau was like this: powerful moves with good holds and excellent friction. #soft
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Sat 3rd Aug 2019 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Franchard Long Boyau | ||||||
7A+ | ★★★ Cellulose (direct) | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Spent quite some time cleaningbthe entire top from at least one season of needles. Worth the effort since this is one of the finest routes I've done in Bleau. Hard start, foot first into kneebar, easy middle and fun mantle. Fell of the mantle 3 times in the slippery heat. Quite a bit of walking, searching, and schlepping the pads... It's clean now!
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Sat 3rd Aug 2019 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Franchard Mont Aigu Off circuit boulders | ||||||
7A 6C+ | ★★★ Montée Divine | |||||
Nice route, very esthetic. Back to 7A again.
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Sun 24th Mar 2019 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Trois Pignons West Roche aux Oiseaux | ||||||
7A | L'Épervier (assis) (L'Epervier (assis)) | |||||
Unusual climbing for Font on concretions. Worth the detour with Migration around the corner. Fairly easy, with one harder move. Should have flashed.
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7A | Migration Lente (assis) | |||||
Tricky and balancy arete. Found it difficult getting into position for the deadpoint to the beautiful ‘blob’. Easy end. Fun one!
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7A | ★★ Ça Tend à Droite (Ca tend à droite) | |||||
Kneebar into flat ‘jug’. Easiest ‘7a’ in Font
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Sat 23rd Mar 2019 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
South Fontainebleau Rocher d'Avon Off circuit boulders | ||||||
7B | ★★★ Le Danseur | |||||
Very easy jump once you figure out the correct position for the right hand and right foot. And again, and again, and again,... Overcast conditions surely help.
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Fri 22nd Mar 2019 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Coquibus Coquibus Auvergne | ||||||
7A | À Six c'est Assez (A six c'est assez) | |||||
Easy start / hard finish on small footholds. Not to bad.
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7A | La Traversée d'Aurélien | |||||
Variation to a variation? Nice route anyway.
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Sat 16th Feb 2019 - Odenwald | ||||||
Steinau Rimdidim Gagernstein | ||||||
6B+ | Zwillingsriss | 7m | ||||
Sat 16th Feb 2019 - Odenwald | ||||||
Steinau Rimdidim Winkelblock | ||||||
6B+ 6C | ★★ Zangenfänger | 3m | ||||
Sat 16th Feb 2019 - Odenwald | ||||||
Steinau Rimdidim Gagernstein | ||||||
7A | ★★★ Classic | 7m | ||||
Bloody hard second move. Trusting the shitty foothold prooved difficult. Once passed, no trouble. As aspected. All jugs at the top for the tall. Nice!
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Fri 15th Feb 2019 - Odenwald | ||||||
Felsenmeer Sektor B Pyramide | ||||||
7A+ | Reineke Fuchs left (Reinecke Fuchs left) | 5m | ||||
Hardest is starting and avoiding the lower block to the left. Moved round the edge quite low with left foot on starting hold. Not sure this is ‘the way’.
Ultrasoft. 6b+ Font.
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Tue 24th Jul 2018 - Ailefroide | ||||||
Les Blocs Philémon Bloc F | ||||||
7A | ★ Probar (sit start) (Probar) | |||||
Hard start. Not shure how eliminate the climbing is. Stayed to the right.
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Tue 24th Jul 2018 - Ailefroide | ||||||
Les Blocs Philémon Bloc Pic-Nic | ||||||
7B | ★★ Petrolland | |||||
Did not feel like 7b the way I did it. Did start lying down with both hands on lowest rail. But also with toehook way right. Must be harder fot the short who have to squeeze themselves in the scoop with shitty footholds.
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7A | ★★ Maroual Chamak | |||||
Relatively easy to climb by heelhooking.
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Sat 5th May 2018 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Trois Pignons East Rocher du Télégraphe Off circuit boulders | ||||||
7A | Coup de Tonnerre | |||||
Nice holes. Fun and 6A/B-ish.
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Fri 4th May 2018 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Trois Pignons East Rocher du Télégraphe Off circuit boulders | ||||||
7A | Coup d'Épaule (Coup d'Epaule) | |||||
Fun, but not worth a star IMO.
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Wed 2nd May 2018 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Franchard Franchard Hautes-Plaines Off circuit boulders | ||||||
7A | Le Mur Lombard (Mur lombard) | |||||
Nice wall. Cool move. Very, very easy (6b-ish - really) with the right trick (have fun finding it).
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Wed 2nd May 2018 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Franchard Franchard Cuisinière Off circuit boulders | ||||||
7B | ★★ La Déferlante (La Deferlante) | |||||
Fun dyno with brilliant catch. Back in the jumping game. 3 times in a row
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Tue 1st May 2018 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Larchant Maunoury Off circuit boulders | ||||||
7A | Zygos | |||||
Big span/Cool move. Fun. Bit dirty though.
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7A+ | Décision (Decision) | |||||
"Modern 7A's are sometimes easier than old school 5+" (J.P. Bouvier). Yup. Wet and dirty as well.
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Sun 15th Oct 2017 - Westpfalz | ||||||
Leimener Gebiet Jurassic Park Eddy Energy | ||||||
7A | ★ Brontosaurus | |||||
Sun 15th Oct 2017 - Westpfalz | ||||||
Leimener Gebiet Jurassic Park T-Rex | ||||||
6B | ★ Damoklesschwert | |||||
Lying/low start.
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6A | ★★ Toureneinstieg | |||||
Sun 15th Oct 2017 - Westpfalz | ||||||
Leimener Gebiet Jurassic Park Eddy Energy | ||||||
6C | ★★ Archaeopteryx | |||||
Sun 1st Oct 2017 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Avalonia Buchenschluchten Dach | ||||||
7A | ★★★ Dabstep | 2m | ||||
Nice dyno with double-handed catch to avoid ruining the skin on the right hand. Fun!
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Wed 16th Aug 2017 - Kjugekull | ||||||
B2 - Kluvna stenen | ||||||
6C | ★★ Glasögonorm | |||||
Not much fun in summer.
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6B | ★★ Mr Magnet | |||||
Tue 15th Aug 2017 - Bonkers | ||||||
7A | ★ Rigor Mortis (Rigor Mortis SDS) | |||||
Sitstart on the big sidepull. 6C-ish?
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7A | Regenerate | |||||
One (micro) move wonder. Did a lying start on 2 pretty small holds next to each other. Later saw it done with arms spread out in video, but this works as well. Bumscraper!
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Mon 14th Aug 2017 - Marstrand | ||||||
7A+ | ★★ Sourze | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun big moves on good holds. My anti-style, but good to be finally painfree and able to make the shouldery moves.
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6C+ | ★★ Soltecken | |||||
One move wonder, but a good one and esthetic. 6B/C?
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Sun 13th Aug 2017 - Rödaväggen | ||||||
6C | ★ JW:s Arete | |||||
Slightly creaking hold(s) in upper part. 6A in new guidebook which seems the right grade.
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6C | ★★ My Way | |||||
The big flake is loose. The hold left just before the top is loose as well. Might be in need of some Sika/cementing agent.
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Fri 11th Aug 2017 - Rödaväggen | ||||||
7B | ★★ Full Contact | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Crouching start from the two marked holds. Beautiful! Not 7B+, more like 7A(+). 7A in the 2017 guidebook.
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6B+ | ★ High Way SDS | ★ Good | ||||
Very nice boulder-problem! 2017 guidebook shows exit right, but left is probably meant. Far more rewarding also and on perfect rounded holds and a fun mantle. Going right is jugs al the way.
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6C | Cramo | |||||
Slightly creaking hold(s) in upper part. 6A in the new 2017 guidebook which seems right.
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Fri 11th Aug 2017 - Svartaväggen | ||||||
7A | ★★ Hissen | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very good! Fun topout - not easy when tired! If the block had been higher and more dramatic this would be a king line (for its grade). Start with 2 hands at the leftmost hold in the crack and left foot with heelhook. Good holds, bad feet all the way. Each footmove required both feet off, 7 times in a row. Not usual at this grade. #hard
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Fri 11th Aug 2017 - Rödaväggen | ||||||
6C | ★ Red slab | |||||
Good rock, nice warming up. Sds left, traverse right and up. 6C in the 2017 guidebook but more like 5 in Font It's all about the feet!
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7A | The Way | |||||
One move wonder made easier with clever foot placement. Got that one right ;-). Down to 6C+ in the 2017 guidebook.
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Thu 10th Aug 2017 - Vo Västervik | ||||||
6C+ | Crack | |||||
Hard move at the start, followed by nice and surprisingly not that easy body-tension moves. More difficult than the 7a(+) to the right. Good moves! 6B+ in the 2017 guidebook, but 6C feels right.
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7A | Max | |||||
Surprisingly good and fun moves on the dirty backside of the block. Font-style topout when not using the big footholds of neighbouring problem to the left. Grade in the 2017 guidebook = 6b+, which is kinda hard going straight up the sloping holds. Conditions were a bit hot though.
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7A+ | Tree bloc (Tree block) | |||||
Hard move at the start going from the low undercling on the left (same start as Crack). Easy moves from crack up to sloping topout with heelhook right. Ends at jug. Gets 7a+ in the pdf guide and on 27 Crags. Probably more like 6C. Or harder if you don' like cracks/slopers?
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Mon 7th Aug 2017 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Brodalen Häller Häller - Boulder | ||||||
6C | Namnlös Arête | |||||
Landing is akward without a spotter. Harder/scarier when shorter.
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Sun 6th Aug 2017 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Brodalen Häller Häller - Boulder | ||||||
6A | ★★★ Horse with no name | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
One of the best boulderproblems I've done. Fantastic climbing on an esthetic line. Better than Font for sure. Quite high and committing. Fun!
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6B | ★★ Groovesprickan | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Good conditions make the difference. Fun moves on slick rock. Sitstart has good moves as well but (to) though.
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Tue 1st Aug 2017 - Bohuslän | ||||||
Brodalen Häller Häller - Boulder | ||||||
6C | ★ Alf | |||||
Hard in humid conditions. Surprisingly difficult finish.
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Mon 17th Apr 2017 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Franchard Mont Aigu Off circuit boulders | ||||||
7A | La Chimère | |||||
Tot einde moeilijkh. ivm natte top.
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Sun 16th Apr 2017 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Apremont Gorges d'Apremont Off circuit boulders | ||||||
7A | ★★ Égoïste (Egoïste) | |||||
Rep
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Sun 16th Apr 2017 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Apremont Gorges d'Apremont Sky blue circuit ED- (Nº11) | ||||||
7A | ★★ Le Mur des Lamentations | |||||
At last! Felt easy when it all came together, but hard/impossible before. Typical Font.
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Sun 16th Apr 2017 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Trois Pignons East Reine Crête Nord | ||||||
6C+ | Soleil Noir | |||||
Sun 8th Jan 2017 - Sintra | ||||||
Albarrasintra Meca | ||||||
6B+ | ★★ Ninho de Cucos (Ninho de Cucus) | |||||
Fri 6th Jan 2017 - Sintra | ||||||
Albarrasintra Meca | ||||||
7A | ★★★ Incha-lá | |||||
Fri 30th Dec 2016 - Odenwald | ||||||
Steinau Rimdidim Winkelblock | ||||||
6A | ★★ Wegsuche | 3m | ||||
Fri 30th Dec 2016 - Odenwald | ||||||
Steinau Rimdidim Karussell | ||||||
6A | ★★ Pyramide | 3m | ||||
4+ in Font
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Fri 30th Dec 2016 - Odenwald | ||||||
Felsenmeer Sektor E Secret | ||||||
6A | ★★ Flash | 3m | ||||
Same difficulty as the boulder to the left. To short, but nice.
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Fri 30th Dec 2016 - Odenwald | ||||||
Felsenmeer Sektor E Rissstein | ||||||
6A | ★ Mittelweg | 3m | ||||
Nice moves and finally a boulder that is a little bit higher then the rest.
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Fri 30th Dec 2016 - Odenwald | ||||||
Felsenmeer Sektor E Secret | ||||||
6B+ | ★★ Spot | 3m | ||||
Mantle on a slab. Short but nice. #soft
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Thu 29th Dec 2016 - Odenwald | ||||||
Felsenmeer Sektor A Wegelagerer | ||||||
6A | ★★ Wegelagerer | 3m | ||||
Thu 29th Dec 2016 - Odenwald | ||||||
Felsenmeer Sektor A Pilz | ||||||
6C | Hutmantle | 3m | ||||
100 % pure mantle. Fun!
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Thu 29th Dec 2016 - Odenwald | ||||||
Felsenmeer Sektor A MD Gedächtnisblock | ||||||
6C+ | ★★ Winterkante | 3m | ||||
Nice one. #soft
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Thu 29th Dec 2016 - Odenwald | ||||||
Felsenmeer Sektor A Pilz | ||||||
6C | ★★ Pilz | 3m | ||||
Heelhook rechts.
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Thu 29th Dec 2016 - Odenwald | ||||||
Felsenmeer Sektor A MD Gedächtnisblock | ||||||
7A+ | ★★ Winterweg | 3m | ||||
Schön!
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Wed 28th Dec 2016 - Odenwald | ||||||
Felsenmeer Sektor B Rampe | ||||||
6A+ | ★★ Blessur | 3m | ||||
Fun.
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Wed 28th Dec 2016 - Odenwald | ||||||
Felsenmeer Sektor B Diskus | ||||||
6A+ 6B | ★★★ Diskus | 3m | ||||
Wed 28th Dec 2016 - Odenwald | ||||||
Felsenmeer Sektor A Amras | ||||||
6A 6A/A+ | ★★★ Locker | 3m | ||||
4 maximum. #soft
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Wed 28th Dec 2016 - Odenwald | ||||||
Felsenmeer Sektor B Buckel | ||||||
6A+ | ★★ Glöckner | 3m | ||||
Font 4+ #soft
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Wed 28th Dec 2016 - Odenwald | ||||||
Felsenmeer Sektor B Rampe | ||||||
6C | ★★ Rampentraverse | 3m | ||||
First move is crux. Fun mantle.
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6A+ | ★★ Blessur | 3m | ||||
Fun.
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Sun 26th Jul 2015 - Valle Orco | ||||||
Sergent Area Kosterlitz | ||||||
6B | ★★★ Fessura Kosterlitz (Kosterlitz) | 7m | ||||
Easy.
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Thu 5th Mar 2015 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Avalonia Avalonia Cave | ||||||
7A+ | ★★★ Anasazi | |||||
Combination of Mesa Verda and Pueblo. Nice press into Pueblo. Good climbing. Like this type of bouldering more than Font...
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Sat 14th Feb 2015 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Avalonia Avalonia Cave | ||||||
7A | ★★★ Pueblo | |||||
7A+ | Invasion der Steinmänner | |||||
Sitstart down and to the right of thee normal Mesa Vera start. Dunno wether I did Invasion or if the sitter is a variation to Mesa Verde. Fun athletic climbing anyhow.
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Sat 14th Feb 2015 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Avalonia Cyrano | ||||||
7A | Cyrano | |||||
Wed 31st Dec 2014 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Apremont Gorges d'Apremont Off circuit boulders | ||||||
7A | ★★★ Légitime Adhérence (assis) | |||||
Tue 30th Dec 2014 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Cuvier Cuvier Est | ||||||
7A | Les Cupules | |||||
7A | Zouk Machine | |||||
Sun 14th Dec 2014 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Avalonia Galerie Limbo | ||||||
7A | ★★ Limbo | |||||
Keeping your arse off the ground isn't easy. Softy. 6c-ish?
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Sun 16th Feb 2014 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Avalonia Avalonia Cave | ||||||
7A | ★★★ Mesa Verde | 4m | ||||
Brilliant climbing! Nicer line (and better moves) IMO by only using the holds on/left of the prow - not the holds to the right in the roof.
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Sun 16th Feb 2014 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Avalonia Spielwiese | ||||||
6C | ★★ Inuit | 5m | ||||
Fun!
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Sun 16th Feb 2014 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Avalonia Katla Cave Katla Cave | ||||||
7B+ 7C | ★★ Zerissene Welten (Zerrissene Welten) | ★ Good | ||||
Hardest move again going for the Shelob jug, and getting the left foot to stick - why o why? Actual jamming move not to hard. Fun! Exit right felt little bit easier than exit through Shelob. 7a+? Time won't tell unfortunately. NOT POSSIBLE ANYMORE. The Katla Cave collapsed mid july 2014. So sad :-(
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Sun 16th Feb 2014 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Avalonia Spielwiese | ||||||
6B | Indian Creek | 5m | ||||
Ha, 5+ max. Leider zu kurz.
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Mon 3rd Feb 2014 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Cuvier Bas Cuvier Off circuit boulders | ||||||
7A | ★★★ L'Hélicoptère | 8m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Falling off is so much fun - even more so 15 years ago without pads! To weak to hold the swing so did it statically with heel hook on the left. 15 year project finally solved
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7A | ★★★ Langouste Royale | 4m | ||||
Perfect friction today. No need to hook!
|
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7A | ★★ Vaudou-Système | |||||
Conditions dependent. Nice mantle topout - where's the foothold...
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Sun 2nd Feb 2014 - Fontainebleau | ||||||
Malesherbes Buthiers Tennis Off circuit boulders | ||||||
7A 6B | ★★ Nemesis | ★ Good | ||||
Chipped holds (?) and 6b according to bleau.info. Didn't see any chipped holds. One hold low down on the right felt sandy, and might have been chipped (and/or eroded) But this does not effect the climbing nor the grade. Felt like proper 7a to me.
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Fri 31st Jan 2014 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Avalonia Katla Cave Katla Cave | ||||||
7B 7C | ★ Schattenläufer | ★ Good | ||||
Could not do the Shelob move on 'Black', and went for the 'easier' option. 7a+? Time will tell. Update: NOT POSSIBLE ANYMORE. The Katla Cave collapsed mid july 2014. So sad :-(
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Fri 31st Jan 2014 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Avalonia Momos Amphitheater | ||||||
6C | Suspendanium (Suppedaneum) | |||||
Easy.6a+? Morpho.
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Fri 31st Jan 2014 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Avalonia Katla Cave Katla Cave | ||||||
7B+ 7C | ★★ Blumen aus Südafrika | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tricky trusting the fistjam and the jammed feet going for the finishing jug. Fun moves! 7a+? Time will tell. Update: NOT POSSIBLE ANYMORE. The Katla Cave collapsed mid july 2014. So sad :-( #2go
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Fri 31st Jan 2014 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Avalonia Cloé | ||||||
7A | ★★ Cloé | 2m | ★ Good | |||
Low traverse, not appealing at first sight, but climbs really well. Needed lots of tries - being fresh helped.
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Fri 31st Jan 2014 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Avalonia Momos Amphitheater | ||||||
7A 7A/A+ | ★ Graf Zahl | 4m | ★ Good | |||
Dyno.
|
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Tue 28th Jan 2014 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Avalonia Katla Cave Katla Cave | ||||||
7A+ | ★★ Shelob | 2m | ★ Good | |||
Nice boulder - especially the finish. Not as easy as I had hoped it would be as I couldn't/can't get the foot to stick for the move to the jug. Had to find my own (weird) method. Fun finish with bomber foot-jam. Update: NOT POSSIBLE ANYMORE. The Katla Cave collapsed mid july 2014. So sad :-(
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7B 7A | ★★★ Drachenrachen | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Great boulder with fantastic moves! But... it makes a hell of a difference being able to jam (handjam and fistjam). Easier than Shelob for me. 7a? Time will tell. Update: NOT POSSIBLE ANYMORE. The Katla Cave collapsed mid july 2014. So sad :-( #soft
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Sun 12th Jan 2014 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Avalonia Galerie Orange Mécanique | ||||||
6B+ | ★★ Metamorphose | |||||
6B+ | ★★ Moulin Rouge | |||||
Sun 12th Jan 2014 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Avalonia Galerie Fuchurs Höhle | ||||||
7A | Marks Roof | |||||
Start bei gute Griffe. Weiter mit den beiden Rissen, keine weiteren Tritte rechts und links. Fun roof climb. 6b+? Time will tell. #2go
|
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Sun 12th Jan 2014 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Avalonia Cloé | ||||||
6C+ | Grafitaux | |||||
Sun 12th Jan 2014 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Avalonia Galerie Fuchurs Höhle | ||||||
7A | ★★ Elfenbeinturm | ★ Good | ||||
Fun!
|
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Sun 5th Jan 2014 - Ruhrtal | ||||||
Avalonia Galerie Orange Mécanique | ||||||
6B | ★★★ Orange Mecanique | 5m | ★★ Very Good |