Vias em World para uma graduação selecionada

One of the hardest problem's in Queensland. This is the amazing line in the middle of the wall.

Crazy roof right on the waters edge of the ocean. Start from two good crimps at the back of the cave, followed by 8 hard moves in a roof to a cool headwall and top out to the right.

First boulder of the grade sent by an Australian woman - Amy Fenton in 2017. Amy suggested a downgrade, saying "The consensus probably sits at a slash grade (V12/13) but I am definitely no authority. Before Deep Blue Sea my hardest tick was V10 so the idea of skipping two grades and going straight to V13 didn’t sit right with me."

Aurel Gelot | Travis Bettison | Mattias Braach-Maksvytis | Amy Fenton | Sam Farrar

A very good piece of climbing. Apparently the trick is to control the swing.

Chris Webb Parsons

Travis B

#sd

#sd

Start as for Jug to Jug to the LH slot but then head left across Turbo Guns via two difficult cross overs to finish left of that problem.

#expo

The scene of some very impressive ascents. 3rd shot by a 14 year old Ondra at 8c+ then, after a hold broke, Megos made the first ever 9a onsight (if you don't count some 9a's previously onsighted but downgraded by Ondra).

#sd #lr

#sd

Starts on the right side of the cave, enters it and exits in the center.

• Tomáš Mrázek (May 2002)
• Christian Bindhammer (Autmn 2002)
• Vadim Vinokur
• Kilian Fischhuber (May 2005)
• Cédric Lachat (2007)
• Lukasz Dudek (April 2009)
• Jakob Schubert (March 2010)
• Gabriele Moroni (September 2014)
• Domen Škofic (September 2014)
• Alexander Feichter (March 2015)
• Heli Kotter (2015)
• Leto Cavé (2020)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gP9ZOuJB7X0

Depending on the climber the grading varies between 8c+ and 9a. It was initially graded 8c+ by Manfred Stuffer, but in 2000, Yuji Hirayama suggested 8c+/9a. In 2002, Tomas Mrazek and Christian Bindhammer suggested 9a. Alex Megos suggested a downgrade in 2020 after he flashed it back to 8c+ or 8c+/9a.

Originally put up as 'Ummagumma' (also at V13) starting in the 3-finger pocket - Klem added the first (hard) move a week later. Previously V14 until Nicole repeated it in a single day.

The world's first UIAA 11 (8c+/ 9a) and today considered a benchmark for 9a.

The original route bolted by Milan Sykora traversed in from the right, but Güllich bolted a more direct start that consisted of crux dynamic move to a two-finger pocket.

The route is named after a French far-left terrorist group which was active between 1979 and 1987, murdering 12 people and injuring 26. Apparently the inspiration for the name came during training for the route (including mono campusing) as it appeared to Wolfgang that the intense training required was an act of terror against his fingers. It was also a fitting name for the direct start Wolfgang had bolted.

It took 11 days of efforts for Wolfgang to free the short (5 bolts / 15m) but powerful route, which he did using a 16-move sequence on September 14 1991. The route has seen about 20 repeats after the first ascent by Wolfgang Güllich †.

The fastest redpoint to date was by Alex Megos who sent the route in just 2 hours. He has repeated the route 4 more times since.

Ascents

• Alexander Adler on 9 September 1995
• Iker Pou on 7 June 2000
• Dave Graham on 21 May 2001
• Christian Bindhammer on 14 May 2003
• Rich Simpson on 13 October 2005 (ascent has been questioned by UKC, and many other climbing sites.
• Dai Koyamada on 15 October 2005
• Markus Bock on 22 October 2005
• Kilian Fischhuber on 25 September 2006
• Adam Ondra on 19 May 2008
• Patxi Usobiaga on 24 October 2008
• Gabriele Moroni on 17 April 2010
• Jan Hojer on 22 May 2010
• Adam Pustelnik on 10 October 2010
• Felix Knaub on 22 October 2011
• Rustam Gelmanov on 26 March 2012
• Alexander Megos on 3 May 2014
• Felix Neumärker on 16 May 2015
• Julius Westphal on 25 June 2015
• Stefano Carnati, 2016
• David Firnenburg, 2016
• Stephan Vogt, 2017
• Simon Lorenzi, 2017
• Said Belhaj, 2018 (ascent is being questioned, belayer unknown)
• Stefan Scarperi, 2018
• Adrian Chmiała, 2019
• Melissa Le Nevé, 2020 First female ascent
• Philipp Gaßner, 2021
• Buster Martin, 2022
• Marco Zanone, 2022
• Vojtěch Trojan on May 2023
• Moritz Welt on 13 October 2023
• Stefano Ghisolfi on 4 November 2023

#sd

#SD

Start as Pendragon but from the good incut in the roof dyno out to the lip.

Video

Oriane Bertone

A hold broke in summer 2015 and it is now more likely a 9a.

Start on the large jug in the darkest depths of the cave - (the finish of X-Treme Cool) and head out to the jug at the start of Cave Man

This was previously ‘Kiss My Witness’ V6. Holds broke and alas was a project for some time before a “post break repeat” grade confirmation.

Start with both hands on low incut rail. Follow obvious break straight up and finish as for ‘Silent Witness'

#sd

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Climb Black Spider but halfway along the traverse climb up leftwards up using a small pocket

Video

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Start under small roof with small sidepulls, move up to crimp and dyno up. "Obvious line with great moves on small holds"

Video

Finish on the big hold.

Above Digital System.

#sd

Standing 8a

The first V12 in OZ! Very powerful.

Climb the obvious fridge feature. deep from in the cave. Slap side to side and try and work out the wacky puzzle at the lip. Don't get swallowed up by the giant monster!!

#lrl

Shares anchor with "Nordic Plumber".

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Climb the leftward tending line. "Shosholoza is an awe-inspiring boulder problem and one of the best lines I've ever climbed – Bernd Zangerl"

Video

Video

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Sit-start with the rail, climb out to the lip and traverse left through the roof and finish up as for Colin the Librarian. "Compression"

Video

Max Bertone

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Sit-start at the back of the large roof, climb to the slopey lip and finish up left. "Supergeil"

Video

Sit start as for Anger Management, following the right side of holds leading to a big move to a crimpy blob/shield like feature and then a good jug rest. Connect back into "Anger Management" following its sloppy crack line, turning about a meter before the crack opening. Then head directly out towards the front of the cave via a large jug and some sharp underlings. Top out as for "Anger Management".

Byron Glover

R. Hofmann

Trotter and Sharma's testpiece and probably the most iconic 9A in the Americas. A V8 slab gains a very steep system of slopper rails to V10/11 exit. Ultra classic!

Joe Blau into Marroncita Extension

Repeated by Stefano Ghisolfi (6/4/2018).

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Sit-start #SD with large sidepull, move to gaston and climb straight up.

Video

Oriane Bertone

#sitstart #topout #crimps

#sd #rl

Climb up right from a good hold on the left. "Named after a famous book about South Africa during the 1940's"

Video

Video

Sit start.

Crouch-start with crimp rail, throw out to crimp and climb out through the overhang.

Video

Sit start as for 'Mistik Jouney Mann sit start' then head left about halfway up.

Start off big flake, out to undercling and huge move to pocket. Finish as for When We Were Kings.

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Climb up on the left, throw out right and top-out. mORPHO

Video

Video

Variant of "Reini's Vibos".

9 July 2013 - Onsighted by Adam Ondra.

Very solid; as shown by Fred Nicole in the classic EOS2 video (or more recently by James Litz in Dosage 3).

#sd #expo #morpho

#sd

#sd

Starts in 'Strelovod', ends in 'Konec mira'

Sit-start and climb the overhanging prow finishing out left (the use of a kneepad drastically changes the grade.

Video

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Sit-start and climb the face on slopers finishing right.

Start as Trio Ternura. Full route.

Sit start on small edge at back of cave. Head up and right to dream block before climbing a few more easier moves to finish below lip of cave.

A route with a long history of grade changes. Ramon Julian initially graded it at 8c/+. Then Patxi Usobiaga proposed 8c+. In 2015 Alex Megos broke a hold before sending it proposing 9a. Jakob Schubert flashed it and downgraded it to 8c+/9a which was later confirmed by Jorge Díaz-Rullo and seems to be the current consensus.

Angie Scarth-Johnson's Sep 2021 ascent of this route was the first Australian female ascent of a grade 9a/35.

An awesome testpiece from Saxon. Has seen very few repeats. Very small and painful holds and a tricky tricky exit.

Tom O'Halloran

Connor Lucas

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Start with good rail and climb out through the roof. "Amazing moment, one of my best FA's yet! 5 stars – Daniel Woods"

Video

Sit-start and do a dyno and exit left."I've been looking for a pure triple-dyno on rock for 10 years and I finally found it!"

Video

Given 8c+ by Huber, but received only 4 more ascents in 16 years and was upgraded 2 grades. Grade 9a confirmed by Chris Sharma in 2022.

Sit-start with crimp rail and climb leftwards out the cave.

Video

#sd

#sitstart #topout #crimps

#sitstart #topout #slopers

The centre of the cave from back left.

Rainshadow is the stunning extension to Raindogs.