Voies bloc dans Te Whanga-nui-a-Tara / Wellington

Low traverse of the whole wall. Usually done left to right.

Shag Rock is the large pinnacle between Lava Torri Wall and the sea. Baby Shag Rock is the triangular rock below Shag Rock and opposite the First Ugly Sister.

The classic Baring Head problem. Straight up the middle of Split Apple. Can be done as a dyno raising the difficulty to V3. From the central jug, high feet, then dyno to the top.

Traverse.

The easiest way to the top. Climb the obvious groove. The best way down after completing boulders on the sides of Seaward Boulder.

The small overhanging face. At the top veer left. Variations exist with eliminate options.

Excellent boulder with some scoopy jugs. High for a boulder with a fall onto the sand. Optional sit start adds a grade. Big move to a triangular knob left of the arete.

The best route on the slabs. The landing is better than it used to be, but you still wouldn't want to fall off. After a few thin moves at one-third height, perfect holds appear just as you need them. Top out straight up.

An easy start leads to thought-provoking moves through the ledge and bulge. Finish on the rib bordering the chimney. Unlike the left-hand route on this slab, people have fallen off this route and survived.

Classic. An excellent sequence uses a vague diagonal crack to gain a good flake about 3m up. Good, sometimes well-spaced holds follow.

Sustained climbing on thin edges.

A pleasant number. Climb just right of the arete using a series of horizontal breaks. Stay close to the arete – easier climbing lies further right but so does a bad landing. Mantle the ledge near the top: a secret hold around to the left makes this feel secure

An excellent route up the arete, with long moves between good holds.

A beautiful series of edges in the crack.

Sit start in the middle of the small overhang. At the break, head left and match on the diagonal edge. Lock down for the crimper then deadpoint for the flat white jug.

Sit start in the middle of the overhang. Pull onto the break, sidepull/undercut the huge 'love handle' and crank for a two finger chip. Finish directly up the wall above.

Sit start, gain the narrow 'letterbox' hold then surmount the bulge using slopers and a difficult highstep.

Sit start on a large hold and traverse left on the (wave-like) band of slopers, keeping below the large break. Finish up the easy groove at the far end.

Start matched in the small roof below the Wavelength Traverse start on a very thin, flaring undercling. A big crossover move will prevent the dab. Continue with Wavelength Traverse and finish with Beaster.

Avoids the good edge out left and uses small chips on the blunt arete.

Pull on using the big undercling and reach for the mossy topout.

Start with a sloping sidepull for the left hand, pull up and past the vague rib to another mossy topout.

A hard pull gets you to some okay holds, then an off-balance snatch puts you in sight of the mossy topout.

Climb to the rounded laybacks and then . . . you guessed it, a mossy topout. Great moves, nice holds. Almost worth the trip out.

Dyno or make a static move to the mossy topout.

Sit start under the horizontal prow with hands on the obvious start holds. Use two opposing heel hook manoeuvres or just a slap and a pull.

Start as for Big Waves, traverse left and go for a good edge under the lip and finish straight up on slopey crimps.

Climb up the mossy face on some surprisingly nice ledges and jugs.

Climb the mossy arete, there are a few loose blocks, so be careful.

Climb up the face on the left side on small crimps. It's quite mossy

Low traverse on the first decent sized boulder when approaching the entrance. Some sneaky holds, great problem.

Found on the wall directly behind RYF. For V6 stick to holds in the yellow band and avoid using heel hooks.

Opposite stepping out on the lean to boulder. Gain two small slots in the obvious horizontal break and step high to reach a good side pull. Top out over the bulge via small holds.

Just to the right of Lost Boys, climb the blank face via feisty crimps and a positive two finger edge. Eases off for the top out.

Starts just right of Neils Arete. A variety of good holds lead up to an unusual two finger pocket, crank off this to the jug and exit direct.

Simple boulder up the south side corner. Please try not to leave marks or clean them off after as this is a statue art piece.

The cave to the right of the other routes has some bouldering potential. Charlie Creese may have climbed the problem coming out of the middle of the cave in the early 1980s.

Crab like, roof traverse of the cave roof. Sit start left hand side, pull up to roof then, hand slaps and heel hooks until you reach the other side, cut loose and swing round to seaward face, use big handholds and pull up on top of roof (need a good spotter here). Descent left hand side.

climb the left hand arete.