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Practice Area

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 9
14

Seasonality

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Description

Although containing some interesting climbs, this area was originally used for training of scout climbers due to it's manageable size, easy climbs and proximity to the camping area at the end of Bangalow Rd. The rock in this area tends to be grainier than most other cliffs at Monkey Face.

Access issues inherited from Monkey Face

Access to the crag is an easy 10min walk. The lower road, Bangalow Rd, has reopened in 2023 after several years of closure. However the climbers access track is closed after fires in late 2023. Therefore only access is from top again ( see paragraph below about access via Monkeyface Rd) . Park at Bangalow Campground/ day use area and walk up the hill, meeting the routes of So and Feeling the Pinch at Lower Crag. Go left from here to Turkey Walls, Big Banana Buttress and Smear Slabs. go right to access middle crag.

Alternatively the crag can be accessed from above via Monkeyface Rd. From the first top car park head south around large boulders before descending steeply to the top of Big Banana. Go climbers left to descend Central Gully. Rain in 2023 has dislodged several large blocks at the base of the gully and there may be a rickety wooden ladder. Fire has destroyed a lot of ground vegetation increasing rock fall and erosion risk, so be careful.

The walkway wooden retainers and steps have been burnt, although the track is still negotiable. Check the NPWS website for closures as contractors will be working in the area and it will be closed at times during 2024.

In case of emergency, reception is poor at the base of the cliff, but reliable on top of big banana buttress.

Ethic inherited from Monkey Face

Trad and mixed routes abound here with the occasional sport route. A number of routes are readily accessed to set up top ropes. As an older crag, the grades may feel quite stiff, so take this into account. The crag is within a national park, so no dogs, no smoking and use the toilets if you need to go.

Routes

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Grade Route

The dirty corner at the far left end of the cliff.

FA: Matthew Arnott, Doug Beverage, David Gray, Lewis Carey & Brad Munro, 1980

The track passes a steep buttress and an overhung corner, before 80m of blank wall lead to a large tree and 'Deamon'.

The knobbly flake, 80m right of Dougal's Crack.

FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1982

Wall / slab past a letterbox slot and bolt a metre or so right of Deamon.

FA: David Gray, Paul Smith & Bruce Donaldson, 1983

The slabby corner.

FA: David Gray & Michael Gray, 1982

Wall and crack leading to a diagonal line of holds right to a groove.

FA: Paul Smith, Bruce Donaldson & Dennis Baker, 1983

Continue directly up wall after Photogenic's bolt

FA: David Gray, Lindsay Irvine & Paul Doran, 1984

Hanging corner to an arete, carefully up the corner (peg missing) to the grainy arete.

FA: 10M1, David Gray, Greg Allen & Peter Graham, 1980

FFA: David Gray, 1982

Slabby corner and left leading ramp, used as access.

FA: Alan Gray, 1979

Corner / flake above Solo One.

FA: Rob Wallace & David Gray, 1981

Wall and overlap 15m right of Snake. Climb diagonally rightwards to gain the cave, then over the bulge past bolt

FA: David Gray, 1979

Unprotected wall to join Oxymoron at it’s cave.

FA: David Gray & Paul Smith, 1981

Up wall 5m right of Oxymoron Direct passing 2 bolts and a small overlap

FA: James Cowmeadow & Jim Gilbert, 1986

"It's 16 going on 17". The wall at the right hand end of the overlaps, 3m right of Menstration Day.

FA: David Gray & Dave Worthington, 1989

Up wall past a slot & 2 bolts, 5m right of 'Von-Trap'.

FA: James Cowmeadow & Ian Adair

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Tim Haasnoot

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780975129319

An area that has steep sport routes, trad cracks, deep-water-soling, sea cliff climbing and bouldering all within a short drive to some beautiful beaches and national parks is surely worth a look in. The Newcastle and Hunter Rock Climbing guide by Tim Haasnoot is feature packed and includes all the areas worth a day trip from Newcastle. This guide features over 950 routes, 170 boulder problems and 100 DWS with full topo maps and navigation info.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 10 May
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