A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Kieran Loughran Brendan Heywood Campbell Gome Pelangi Miguel Madero Luen Warneke Dave Scarlett Phil Laukens Paul Badenoch Adrian Ridgley
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
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Table of contents
- 1. The Watchtower 11 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. The Watchtower 11 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
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Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -36.751890, 141.837614
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
description
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, The Watchtower Faces Area
access issues
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).
ethic
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
Business as Usual
One move wonder, but not a bad way to fill time if you're queueing for Arachnus (lower off a trad anchor after 25m then retrieve it on your way up Arachnus). May be easier for tall people. Start as for Arachnus, but take thin, left-leaning crack over crux bulge. FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Bowman, 1972 | 18 | 110m | |||||
2 |
★★★ Mr Chicken
Slither like a ferret behind the giant Watchtower flake, starting from Watchtower Crack (top pitch start) and ending up in the Watchtower Chimney. Getting properly stuck in this is a very serious situation. As it says in "Life On A Line" : "We die if we stand still for too long." Don't go alone. FA: Davey Jones, 1996 | -- | 20m | |||||
3 |
★★★ Arachnus Chimeny Chimney
Not a new route; just one of many existing variants to Arachnus. See FA notes for details. FA: | 10 | 99m, 4 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Arachnus
A truly great climb up the middle of the Watchtower. Many variants are possible, especially in the middle section; yes they have already been climbed. Start up the right-hand of the two deep cracks at the base of The Watchtower. This is just left of the undercut section (Pumping), and 9m R of Watchtower Chimney.
FA: Ian Speedie & Rob McQuilkin, 1964 | 9 | 110m, 4 | |||||
5 |
★★★ Arachnus Variant (Minerva) / Minerva
A very popular variant on Arachnus, but more serious because of the poorly protected section on pitch three.
FA: Ivan Dainis & Gwenn Ward, 1965 | 9 R | 110m, 4 | |||||
6 |
★★ A Rack of Phobias
The right arete of Arachnus. Quite fun and there are numerous possible variations. | 12 | 110m, 4 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
Unknown
The tough-looking bulge just left of Pumping, to lower-offs. Name TBC. FA: Ingvar Lidman | 28/29 | 12m, 5 | |||||
8 |
★ Pumping
The thin undercut seam above the cave left of the start of Watchtower Crack gets a star despite the fiddly gear to start and the pathetic rap sling. The very bold second pitch is rarely done and is written up separately (Pumping Part II), in the Right Watchtower Face section. FA: Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead, 1979 | 25 | 12m | |||||
9 |
★ Golden Handshake
Climbs the wall immediately R of Pumping. Two cruxy sections. The first few metres as for Watchtower Crack. Then step up and across onto the left wall to the obvious 'letterbox' slot (cam), tricky past bolt then up easy diagonal crack for a couple of body-lengths. Step L and finish directly up grey face past another bolt to a small ledge near the arete. Double rings. FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, Aug 2023 | 23 | 2 | |||||
10 |
Stumpy Tail
Ascends the appealing 8m-wide wall which is left of Watchtower Crack and at right angles to the main slabs. P2&3 are both good. If you want a tougher outing, and/or a line which stays entirely on this slim face, start up Pumping and finish up Xenomorph for pitches of 24, 20, 23 and 26. The recent addition of Golden Handshake offers an even more consistent way to start, by continuing past the anchor of that route up the thin diagonal crack just R of the arete, to join Stumpy Tail part way up pitch 2.
FA: Will Monks & Kevin Lindorff, 2005 | 23 | 110m, 4 | |||||
11 |
★ Xenomorph
Might be a tad undergraded... Start at the 3rd belay of Watchtower Crack then take the steep bulge 3m L of p4 of WC. Approach up any one of Watchtower Crack, Stumpy Tail or Arachnus, or rap in from the top. FA: Ingvar Lidman | 26 | 30m, 3 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
9 | ★★★ | Arachnus | 110m, 4 | ||
9 R | ★★★ | Arachnus Variant (Minerva) | 110m, 4 | ||
10 | ★★★ | Arachnus Chimeny Chimney | 99m, 4 | ||
12 | ★★ | A Rack of Phobias | 110m, 4 | ||
18 | Business as Usual | 110m | |||
23 | ★ | Golden Handshake | 2 | ||
Stumpy Tail | 110m, 4 | ||||
25 | ★ | Pumping | 12m | ||
26 | ★ | Xenomorph | 30m, 3 | ||
28/29 | Unknown | 12m, 5 | |||
-- | ★★★ | Mr Chicken | 20m |