Ascensions comme Onsight sportive par Roman

All in all a nice outing. Yes there are some potentially dodgy hand/foot holds but you just need to be sensible about what you use. Didnt have any problem with holds breaking. Linked P1 & P2 which i really enjoyed and saved time. And P5 & P6 which makes sense. Found the description of linking p8,9,10 in to 2 pitche a little confusing and tried to link 9+10 which was, obviously, not smart cos of rope drag! Live and learn.. As always, careful of brown snakes, my partner almost got bitten on p6. The traverse is awseome, pumpy and scary and makes the whole climb worth it. I led pitches: 1+2, 4,7,9+10.

Mega classic. Bar to Bar in 1.5 hours..so sick and unique. (for efficiency: link p2+3, and when doing last pitch the leader clips 2 draws in anchor and gets lowered to rap station below (about level with P3 anchors?) - few metres to the right on ledge - facing out. Second then climbs last pitch, re threads rings and gets lowered to leader. Then 2 more raps to ground. Minimum 70m rope for this.

P1 only. Another classic! Was pumped silly after the little traverse left..so manufactured a good rest on the lower part of the stalectite.. But that might have dropped the grade a little

Mega classic! It just doesnt get any better than this 😍 equipping.

Mega classic! Absolute top 7a!! This and 7b luminuso ext. were my fav. ones of the trip.

Excelent! P1 only. Draws were up

led pitch 1 & 3. P1 easy but little thin in the mid section, P2 use sling to extend 4/5 draw to prevent rope drag. P3 short and sweet!

Crazy good!! Equipping

Slabby and little balance p1, excellent juggy flowing p2. Rapped back down with not to much rope drag pulling the rope.

Excellent!! And adventure.. I'd go with 6c+.

Done in 1 pitch with 70m rope. 3 little overhangs with big jugs to play on.. So good! *

Endurance day - Plan was to tick 20 routes around grade 20. Called it a day at 15 ..content with that but still keen to get back here for my 20x20's in 2020

trick to not having to use the rope is to use the right foot pocket in the block on the right where the rope section is. made it super easy for me

link maddest hatter for a 3 star experience

excellent line

draws were in. Intimidation.. Easier than it looks..j ug fest

Sustained tough 22 pitch! Probably harder if your not on the taller side. Great climbing and at my current limit.. Love it!

Such an awesome second pitch! And was so happy to be clipping some bolts again after a few days at Ben lomond.

Did first and 3rd pitch. It was less chossy than i expected, most of it quite dry. Tricky start as first move.. i ended up pulling myself up on to that first ledge. At end of first pitch there is a perfect and comfortable belay ledge with 2 RBs. There is potential for a bad swing when starting the second pitch just before you place the 3rd draw (i think it was 3rd or maybe 2nd) as it seemed a bit run out. (or if you seconding it, after you unclip the 1st/2nd draw) Rest of the climb is quite easy and generally nice holds all the way up... grade around 17/18 untill the top part of 3rd pitch which is around 20, but for shorter people maybe up to a 21 possibly. i cruised through it but my partner struggled a little. There is just one RB anchor point at the top of the climb for some resson. I used my 7m accessory cord to add an anchor point at the bottom of the fence post which worked perfectly to give me 2 equalised points to top belay from (1.20m sling or so would probably also work). Walk off top is better than rapping down as your rope will probably end up half in the sea when you pull through. All in all a beautiful climb and defnately worth it

Draws up.. That pinch?!

Pretty juggy Easy 18

Draws were in.

One of, if not the best route from memory done at the grade. we finished up just as the sun was setting. Location location location 10 draws to top.

Excelent technical face climbing! 7 bolt plates, dbl rack .5 - #2 friends, 2 smal- medium nuts. Lower off from chains. 60m rope just gets you down.

Great route!!

The crux flowed nicely with a sequence of big bouldery moves.. my style of climb..Long and juggy. Felt soft for the grade and the draws were up

Super

Draws were up

3 starts from me

excellent long warm up

Classic! One of the best 19 iv ever done. all the climbing here is just so amazing!

3 starts in guide and agree. It's not a give away either at the grade

Excellent route!

first overhang a few clips up is the crux and quite tricky, i used a right heel hook and threw up to edge with left hand. rest is quite easy. i think there is one carrot just under anchors.awesome climb

great jug-hauling

Excelent! one of the most enjoyable 19s iv done

mindless jug hauling.. super fun