Slab Walls Principalement Escalade sportive 27 voies en paroi

Start at the very low point of the crag.

1. (16) 8 bolts - Start easily up the slab to arete and crack. Shared double bolt belay with Here Be Dragons.

2. (17) 8 bolts - Shares firsts 4 bolts of Here Be Dragons. Up short wall behind anchors. Traverse right 3 meters to base of giant gully. Follow the left line of bolts around the edge of the slab. Double bolt belay on ledge to left of the next big tree.

3. (17) 8 bolts - Start up water runnel then keep left to run strait up the arete. Double bolt belay at ledge.

4. (15) 6 bolts - Start to the right of belay then tend left and up through blocks. Up two more slabs to final double bolt belay.

Start at the very low point of the crag. Meanders up through the old descent gully on really cool features.

1. (15) - Grit stone-esk slab. Follow 5 bolts to large ledge and tree. Double bolt belay.

2. (17) - Up short wall behind anchors(Tree often used as a footer.) Traverse right 3 metres to base of giant gully. 7 bolts up blunt arete, through less than perfect rock to another large ledge and tree. Double bolt belay.

3. (17) - 8 bolts up face to large ledge. Belay from double ring bolts on the right.

4. (18)- Trend left over easy broken ground to the bottom of the giant blocks. Pull up through blocks, taking care on the final boulder problem. Addition protection from an old bolting Friend in the crack if you are feeling a little exposed. (Hard move but sympathetically bolted.) Pointless but so much fun.

Offwidth corner crack about 50m right of Access Route, 20m R of big choss gully, and 50m left of base of Descent Ramp.

1. 20m Up crack past bush to poor belay.

2. 30m Up slaby seam with poor protection to poor belay under boulder. Scary solo off, or stay roped up!

3 nice pitches. Start at RRD initials, about 10m L of Gripping Yarn. P1 30m 17 Start up first few moves of RRP and left up nose to 2nd belay Very Easy Route (rings). P2 30m 17 Up friction slab above belay (stay out of the crack) then up left to Gripping Yarn second belay, left end of overlap. P3 10m 17 Up arete to hidden pockets on slab

About 20m right of Suicidal Dreams, groove 8m left of gripping Yarn. Marked with faint yellow paint.

1. 30m Up crack past blackberries to ring belay as for The Very Easy Route

2. 30m Step left and up cracks then left to belay as for Gripping Yarn P2.

Nice slabbing with a few easy run outs. Easiest to walk down the descent ramp, the route starts up a thin crack some 35m L of the Descent Ramp. Or else 30m R of the big choss gully on the R side of the Main Wall is a fine thin crack up the face of short flake.

1. 15m (16) Up past 3 bolts then on to DBB. If this pitch is wet do P1 of 'The Very Easy Route' and traverse in.

2. 50m (16) Straight up past 8 bolts and then traverse left below overlap to DBB.

3. 30m (14) Head left up easy slab (BR) and mantel (BR) past cracks and up over 2 bulges, walk back to tree.

(P1 claimed as Mark Farrels Crack in 1997, but regularly climbed in the 70s)

1. 50m (16) From the Maur i Rompa belay bolt at the left end of the ledge, follow the seam leftwards, 2m past Gripping Yarn and up past a carrot. Then diag L to jug and around arete to good crack (RRP). Follow this to Break then follow easy seam with no gear for 10m and leftwards to GY Belay#2.

2. 30m (14) finish up GY

It's possible to wander all over the wall with many variations. This captures the best easy climbing, the pitches are short so you can watch seconds. You can easily combine P1+2, and P4+5 if you use a few slings. All rings. Follow the rings. There is one ring to rule them all.

1. 10m Follow layback crack about 15m R of gripping Yarn to ledge.

2. 25m Walk left, crossing Gripping Yarn (you can step up and clip a fixed hanger here, use a sling to cut drag), and then up short wall and easy slab, move L to belay on block. (ignore the bolts with hangers going straight up the blank slab above, Nintendo 64)

3. 30m step left across corner then left 5m further and up slab and bulge, then leftwards to belay in hole.

4. 20m diagonally left to overlap. Left and up short corner and wall to belay.

5. 25m Up right to bolt and slab and crack as for Gripping Yarn.

Nice climbing up an old fashion slab with good but sparse gear, Climb up chimney about 6m R of Gripping Yarn (sling tree), step R and onto slab and easily straight up black streak to diagonal at 15m, good wires. Easy runout up black streak to flake, step left (good baby cams now that the paper flakes have been removed) finishing up a flared seam. There are 3 good small wire placements , take a nut tool as the crack catches bit of dirt (and reading glasses if you're old) Finishes at the top of the green rope in the Access Ramp. Technically about 16, and would have been graded 17 if it was in Booroomba

Start up The Very Easy Route to the first belay or walk in along ledge. Up rightwards past 3 bolts to the smooth scoop (18) then left to the corner (optional medium cam), step left and up arete past 2 bolts. Up delicately to the belay (2 bolts, descent rope tied to one)).The first half of the pitch was originally done as Maur i Rompa

Start on the ledge directly below the descent rope. Follow the cool little ripple up the ledge to double belay anchors. Great beginners slab route, easy to protect, easy to bail. Follow the handline to the belay bolt.

Three good easy pitches going leftwards up the spine of the buttress

1. 20m (11) 5 x FH to DFH belay. Beginner fun on easy slab.

2. 20m (13) 5 x FH to DFH belay. More beginner fun on easy slab.

3. 20 (10) 5 x FH. Head up diagonally left, over step, and left up seam DFH belay, walk off carefully left (or stay belayed)

1. 15m (17) 3 x FH to vertical hand/feet crack. Cams #1-3 then to DFH belay. The money pitch. Fun feature climbing up to the crack where your cams come into play. What's your crack plan? Lay back or jam?

Either abseil down from above or descend the fixed rope in the descent gulley or from bottom by following cliff around until a fixed rope is found to access start alcove. Top wall tends to be wet after rain and will seep.

1. 12m (17) Start below water runnels under a small crack. Five bolts to double ring belay.

2. 23m (18) Step up slab to easy ground. Trend left and pull over two vertical walls to double ring belay. A 70m rope will get you to the green rope descent, not to the ground.

Pitch 1 is the nicest moderate pitch on the mountain.

Start on the same ledge as 'Far from the Madding Crowd' and 'Road Less Travelled'. Follows the cool looking water runnel up to the mini arête and slab above.

1. 20m (17) Step into the water runnel, past 4 bolts, using the arête where possible. Step over the vegetated ledge and trend slightly right until appearing on the large ledge. Belay at the double rings shared with 'Road Less Travelled'.

2. 25m (14) Step right and romp with ease up the slab and boulder above to shared double lower offs.

Starts at same ledge as 'Far from the Madding Crowd' and 'The Devils Tears', about 5m further right.

1. (19) Steep with a hard pull over steep wall, follow the black slab past 5 bolts. Continue past the double ring bolts on the first ledge (possible belay if you want short pitches) and continue up the slab until reaching the large party ledge. Double belay bolts shared with 'The Devils Tears'.

2. (19) Step left up blank bookend corner at a difficult 21 for the short, on great rock past one ring bolt to double anchors.

Right hand side of the slab. Start on the conveniently positioned old tree trunk. Pull up slab into curving crack, lay back with style and surmount the head wall with care.

Start, walk about 40m R of The Road less travelled etc at a body high flake you can just squeeze thru (or walk around).

1. (16) Start on top of the flake at the bottom of the buttress, high first bolt. Pull with interest onto the wall, 6 bolts to large ledge, lower off here if you're doing the first pitch only, or continue to double rings set back on ledge.

2. 10m (17) Cross over Orchid Alley to right line of bolts to next large ledge.

3. 14m (17) Right of top pitch of Orchid Alley, 4 BRs contributed by James Bulititude and then a further 2 bolts through the final head wall. Belay from double rings.

Great climbing,more smearing and balance than crimping, up a clean water streak. Start, walk about 40m R of The Road less travelled etc to a body high flake you can just squeeze thru (or walk around) (Mad Dogs and Englishmen). Clean black streak 6m right of squeeze. Now easier as it has cleaned up.

1. 35m (19) Up slab, right at start then go direct past 3rd bolt (out left is mossy). Scramble up to wall 10m above top of slab to belay on 2BB on the left. I lowered down to top of slab to watch second on hard start.

2. 20m (17) Take left line of bolts, up line and left to 2BB near gully (there is another line of bolts + trad gear on the right).

3. 35m (14) Up arete and slab to roof, stand on block and step left and pull through bulge and up easy slab to tree.