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Saison
Résumé
The climbing in Dilijan National Park is on limestone, which naturally can yield a vast diversity of movement. In the Shady Water Gully, climbs tend to be characterised by hard, bouldery cruxes on crimps, pinches and pockets, separated by less difficult terrain. At the Empress Slabs, there is also a diversity of hold types and movements, but the difficulties tend to become more pronounced where the features are more sparse.
Description
The cliffs are located above 2000m elevation, and as the most prominent formations in the region, loom over the lush green forest of Dilijan National. This means the weather can be pretty serious! Snow can fall from November up to as late as April. The summers are hot with July and August temperatures reaching the 30s, calling for early mornings and late evenings in the cool mountain breeze. The border months of June and September can be highly variable ranging from melting temperatures (meaning glorious midday naps!) to relentless multi-day lightning storms with burly winds offering little more than ten metre visibility. However, due to the typically high summer temperatures and exposed nature of the cliffs, the rock dries quickly!
Approche
In good weather, the cliffs can be accessed in about three hours from the centre of the town of Dilijan. Heading North-West out of town on the road towards Ijevan will take you towards the village of Teghut. From Teghut, head North into the mountains along jeep tracks. Our advice is not to drive these tracks yourself, but hire one of the local drivers (first choice would be Grigor) who know the locations of the climbing routes. You can get in touch with Grigor by contacting Hike Armenia
Où dormir
A self-supported wild camp in the surrounding fields is the way to access the cliffs for overnight trips. There is no shortage of drinking water from streams and piped springs which can be located on OpenStreetMap or the Cartisan hiking map for Dilijan which is available from the Dilijan Tourism Information Centre. Accommodation is available in the town of Dilijan. Details can be found online or the Bradt guidebook for Armenia. Nina’s B&B is a good go-to as it’s in the centre of town and you can rent a private house for 6-8 people at about 5000AMD/person/night. Similarly, there are supermarkets in Dilijan to resupply on food. The cliffs are dotted with small settlements formed of a few wooden huts which local shepherds spend the summer months living in. Most people are extremely welcoming and hospitable; you will undoubtedly be invited in for food, coffee and ungodly amounts of homemade vodka. To say climbing is a young sport in Armenia would be an understatement. The climbing is in view of the 4x4 tracks used by locals as access routes to their fields, so you will be honked and stared at. Generally they are well-intentioned and you may be able to hitch a ride back to your basecamp if you’re lucky. Unfortunately, women travelling alone should be aware of additional risks.
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