A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Douglas Hockly Campbell Gome Brendan Heywood Kieran Loughran Dylan Tubaro Mattia Fornari Ashlee Hendy Matt Langley Brendan Coulter Chris Snell
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Certains contenus ont été fournis sous licence de : © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU) © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Denim Wall 9 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Denim Wall 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
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La plupart Escalade traditionnelle
Lat / Long: -36.757403, 141.844920
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
description
In the cave behind John's Pinnacle. Stays cool in the summer.
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Bluffs Area
Limitations de l'accès
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).
éthique
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
Vixen
Start at the L end of Denim Wall.
FA: Andrew Thomson & Greg Child, 1976 | 22 | 45m, 2 | |||||
2 |
★★ Concise Exercise
Sustained. Start 12m up L from the start of Denim, part way up Vixen but access via ledge. Traverse the wall to finish up See You Round. FA: Scott Camps & Paul Johnston, 1988 | 26 | 35m, 5 | |||||
3 |
★★★ Denim
"It will laugh at attempts to free it" - Keith Lockwood, Arapiles guidebook 1978. Freed by Kim in 1979 it didn't laugh for long but it still has plenty of chuckles at aspirants. Louise Shepherd made a particularly impressive ascent in 1984 - she fell off the initial roof, lowered off then did it second shot, onsighting most of the route and placing the gear. Possibly the first female ascent at this grade in AU (she'd previously onsighted 26 (!) in Yosemite in 1981). Start on the L side of the wall.
FA: Chris Baxter, John Moore & Clive Parker (aid), 1968 FFA: Kim Carrigan & Eddy Ozols, 1979 | 26 | 45m, 2, 2 | |||||
4 |
★★ London Calling
Start 1.5m R of Denim. Up thin seam to traverse line, R and up to RB, diagonally R to 2nd RB, then trend L to 3rd RB (despite the unfortunate chipped hold, this is still the crux). Berlin Calling (29*) is a linkup of Balance of Power into London Calling (Nathan Hoette Nov '04). FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 27 | 23m, 3 | |||||
5 |
Berlin Calling
FFA: Nathan Hoette, 2004 | 29 | 20m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★ Balance of Power
Bolts are mostly rusty (still the case as at Apr 2023) and should not be trusted. Start 6-8m R of LC. Very bouldery past the first FH then continuous past 4 more FHs, then finish off to the right where Concise Exercise finishes. Lower off. FA: "Fat Nick" Sutter, 1993 | 29 | 18m, 5 | |||||
7 |
★★ Balance of Power Direct Finish
Given 31, but it's not that much harder then the original. FA: Nathan Hoette | 31 | 30m, 7 | |||||
8 |
★ See You Round
A very tough crux down low. Start just L of the south entrance to Ali Baba's Cave. Bulge then crack. FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981 | 26 | 20m | |||||
9 |
★ L7s
Avoids the desperate crux of See You Round by starting to the right at the hole. Bridge up 5m and clip the bolt on the L. Swing L around the arete (wire and tiny cams) to a mega jug and then up and R, move back L to crack through bulge, and then R again to finish at chains. Big holds and very steep. Not really sure of the grade, just a guess. The rock and the moss on this are not of the best quality, be cautious on it! FA: Douglas Hockly, 13 Déc 2015 | 23 | 15m, 1 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
22 | Vixen | 45m, 2 | |||
23 | ★ | L7s | 15m, 1 | ||
26 | ★★ | Concise Exercise | 35m, 5 | ||
★★★ | Denim | 45m, 2, 2 | |||
★ | See You Round | 20m | |||
27 | ★★ | London Calling | 23m, 3 | ||
29 | ★ | Balance of Power | 18m, 5 | ||
Berlin Calling | 20m | ||||
31 | ★★ | Balance of Power Direct Finish | 30m, 7 |