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Noeuds dans Denim Wall

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Affichant les 10 noeuds total.

Noeud
Denim Wall

In the cave behind John's Pinnacle. Stays cool in the summer.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Bluffs Area

22 Vixen

Start at the L end of Denim Wall.

  1. 15m (-) Up the unpleasant chimney roof, bridging at the lip.

  2. 30m (22) Up, then traverse R under roof, up Denim for 3m, then diagonally R to arete (beware loose block).

26 Concise Exercise

Sustained. Start 12m up L from the start of Denim, part way up Vixen but access via ledge. Traverse the wall to finish up See You Round.

26 Denim

"It will laugh at attempts to free it" - Keith Lockwood, Arapiles guidebook 1978. Freed by Kim in 1979 it didn't laugh for long but it still has plenty of chuckles at aspirants.

Louise Shepherd made a particularly impressive ascent in 1984 - she fell off the initial roof, lowered off then did it second shot, onsighting most of the route and placing the gear. Possibly the first female ascent at this grade in AU (she'd previously onsighted 26 (!) in Yosemite in 1981).

Start on the L side of the wall.

  1. 18m (26) Steep thin cracks and roof to ledge.

  2. 27m (22) A fantastic fingers corner crack. Despite what you might read elsewhere this pitch is not well protected at all.

27 London Calling

Start 1.5m R of Denim. Up thin seam to traverse line, R and up to RB, diagonally R to 2nd RB, then trend L to 3rd RB (despite the unfortunate chipped hold, this is still the crux).

Berlin Calling (29*) is a linkup of Balance of Power into London Calling (Nathan Hoette Nov '04).

29 Berlin Calling

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

29 Balance of Power

Bolts are mostly rusty (still the case as at Apr 2023) and should not be trusted. Start 6-8m R of LC. Very bouldery past the first FH then continuous past 4 more FHs, then finish off to the right where Concise Exercise finishes. Lower off.

31 Balance of Power Direct Finish

Given 31, but it's not that much harder then the original.

26 See You Round

A very tough crux down low. Start just L of the south entrance to Ali Baba's Cave. Bulge then crack.

23 L7s

Avoids the desperate crux of See You Round by starting to the right at the hole. Bridge up 5m and clip the bolt on the L. Swing L around the arete (wire and tiny cams) to a mega jug and then up and R, move back L to crack through bulge, and then R again to finish at chains. Big holds and very steep. Not really sure of the grade, just a guess. The rock and the moss on this are not of the best quality, be cautious on it!

Affichant les 10 noeuds total.

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