Noeuds dans Castle Crag

Emergency Location information:Mount Arapiles, Castle Crag Area Reason for closure, Numerous important cultural heritage sites are evidence of the significance of Dyurrite for Wotjobaluk Peoples and the use of the area for thousands of years.

Sensational jug hauling traverse

Start: Start as for 'Trapeze' & 'Swinging'

As for 'Trapeze' until the end of the traverse, then head diagonally up and L to ledge on arete. Keep moving L (above the roof) into Procul.

As for 'The Low Down' until 1st bolt, then go up R to another bolt and into 'A Cut Above'. Step R into mossy seam and head up to ledge with rap anchors.

Latch onto the hanging flake just L of Trapeze's start, then finish up the wall R of 'Trapeze'.

Up the steep pillar to a bolt, then traverse left (crux), and finish up the easier climbing above.

Start: At the pillar on the right side of the north face.

Fun! Climb Swinging to second bolt then step left and follow weakness to top. Good wires protect the crux.

As for 'Trapeze' to the bolt (where 'Trapeze' breaks left), and continue up the arete past another bolt to a new lower-off.

Start: As for 'Trapeze'.

An interesting, albeit short route managing to squeeze in hand jamming, finger locking, an undercling, sidepulls, a mantle (of sorts) and a delicate traverse in its first 6 metres.

Clip the first bolt and traverse off L to Swinging, then up.

Start: Up the pillar 2m R of Swinging.

Crimp straight up from where Siva Direct spans left. A better finish.

As for Siva, then move slightly right and up past carrot bolt, then fixed hanger. A span to holds on the arete allows passage into the top of Swinging thereafter. Originally graded 24 in Carrigan's '83 guide. Incorrectly drawn up in the Mentz/Tempest Select Guide as a LH finish to The Overtaker.

Originally climbed at 31, but subsequent ascents have used the larger holds just L of the old crux.

Start: Boulder start through underclings left of The Undertaker to jug, then out to crimps out left and up, briefly into Siva Direct. Trend right up to a hard boulder problem finish (direct via the pinch). A left hand sequence is also possible.

Up Undertaker to about 6m, then left and up past bolts. Dave has bolted and been working on an independent start.

The first grade 25 in the country.

As for 'The Butterfly', but continue traversing across 'The Undertaker' and finish up 'Swinging'.

Follow 'Elusive Butterfly' to 2nd piton, then traverse L, almost into 'The Undertaker', then climb up R into groove.

Possibly the best of this trio of hard routes just R of The Undertaker. Start 2m R of The Undertaker and head up past a piton and a bolt to finish on the R.

The first route up 'Castle Crag' looks like a doodle, but is not quite that simple.

Tries to free an ugly bolt ladder, but bails when the going gets too hard.

Up the the seam past a fixed peg.

Start: Below the wall with 'Red Baron' is a tiny seam. If you can't find it you might need a microscope.

Climb the face just R of the arete.

Start: Traverse in the the base from under Procul Harem (easy but exposed). Start at the far L of ledge.

Probably one of the first routes at the grade in the country? These days it rarely gets repeated.

Start: To the R of 'Blow Up' is a poorly protected groove.

Reachy moves up the R side of the wall facing the campsite, past a piton and not much else for gear.

Start: Traverse in from the start of Procul Harem (easy but exposed - you might want to rope up).

Originally freed with the aid of a fixed peg placed on abseil. It's gone now thanks to the Law of Ethical Entropy, but small cams will do fine.

Trickier than it looks (take some big gear for the start).

Start: The wide crack at the left end of the east face.

Climb the slimey, curving crack, past a few old pitons, to the ledge.

Start: At far L end of lower wall (below 'Iron Cross' and Mickey Finn).

1m left of Dynamic.

Originally done with a fixed wire, this is now a popular top rope problem.

Start: About 10m R of Kor is a thin seam.

Right-slanting dog-leg crack just right of 'Dynamic'

Climb the wall R of 'Mickey Finn' past the unnerving rattly block.

Up the wall 1m R of SP (contrived at the beginning), until able to move R past tricky moves to jugs.

In the centre of the E face is a thin seam. Climb the thin, attractive seam past a desperate crux. Louise Shepherd's 1981ish onsight was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

After a few metres, break diagonally R and then power up past bolts to the lower-off L of Procol.

Start: As for 'Warmonger'.

The country's first 26.

Start: At the back L corner of the cave a line leads up to the prominent roof crack.

Power through the roof to the lip. The section after the roof was originally done by deviating R into the Low Down, then doing it's crux before continuing straight up. Has since been straightened out.

Start: R of Procol is a line of bolts through the ceiling.

As for 'Nati Dread', but power straight up after the lip past a new crux to rejoin the original route (finishing as for that).