Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mar 16 Avr 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
15 | ★★ The Pharaoh | 33m | ★★ Excellent | |||
good enough.
|
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Mar 27 Fév 2024 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
21 | ★★★ The Kraken - avec JD | 20m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
p1, cleaning after JDs awesome lead, heady laybacking crux. Finger didn't seem to mind
|
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Mer 8 Nov. 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls | ||||||
14 |
★★★ Sweet Dreams
- avec
5*
1
14
20m
2
10
20m
3
13
28m
4
13
25m
5
14
40m
| 130m, 20 | ★★★ Super classique | |||
last pitch middle bolted into gear finish.
|
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Ven 3 Nov. 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Abseil Gully | ||||||
14 | ★★ Set, Piece, Battle - avec 5 star | 50m, 8 | ||||
15 ~17 | ★★ Another Man's Juliet - avec 5 star | 48m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
Feels much more placid on the blunt end in approachies. Definately recommend the ~#1 cam slot out left rather than the nut behind marginal flake at the steepness.
|
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Lun 30 Oct. 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Abseil Gully | ||||||
14 | ★★ Set, Piece, Battle - avec 5star crew, Lliam gabe | 50m, 8 | ||||
P1 - usual slabbing with spaced bolts/gear essentially P1 of Juliet, to right of the two DBB on the slab.
P2 - out left and up following spaced bolts supplemented by gear through steepness, followed by some more lower angle climbing with less gear than would be ideal. Felt easier than AMJ, but was seconding so hard to say. grAId calls this 16/17. |
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12 Facile | ★★ The Eyrie - avec 5star crew, Lliam gabe | 45m, 3 | ||||
The usual mix of average to middling gear in the horizontal wander of the first pitch to the cave (many carrot inc. stainless GIMB with fixed hanger belay anchor) - probably worth keeping seconds low to ease rope mx.
Short second pitch out left of cave past dragons head, modern glue in bolt protected crux and up to top. Note - accessed via abseil gully - anchor massive non-stainless industrial eye bolt and some non-stainless carrots. |
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Ven 20 Oct. 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
11 | ★ Angular Crack | 25m | ||||
Loose block/flake at 2/3 could prolly go a trundle
|
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Jeu 19 Oct. 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
14 ~16 | ★★ S.S.C.C.1 | 25m | ||||
Bolt protected crux
|
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15 | ★★ The Carthaginian | 33m | ||||
Mar 17 Oct. 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Atomic Punk Area | ||||||
14 | ★★ The Obituary - avec 5-star crew | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Finally actually climbed the route, by which I mean on TR.
|
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Mar 11 Juil 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
11 |
★ Prologue P1
- avec
bridie
1
11
8m
| 8m | ||||
15 | ★★ Hope - avec bridie | 15m | ||||
Decided to change it up and not wear approachies and fall off. Used as access to P2 flake
|
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Dim 15 Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
18 | ★★★ The Eternity - avec pat | 22m | ★★★ Classique | |||
yoyo I guess ?? Cleaning up pats 3/4 lead
|
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Mer 14 Sept 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
21 | ★★★ The Janicepts - avec Michael Moore, Sarah | 27m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Piddo day - star chasing
|
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Sam 16 Juil 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Black Bart's Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Black Bart | 25m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Dim 13 Fév 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Psychopath | 28m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
So much funsies
|
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18 | ★★★ The Eternity | 22m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Woop woop, climbs even better then it looks.
|
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Dim 13 Fév 2022 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
8 | ★ Faith - avec Nathan Eager | 52m | ||||
13 | ★ Charity - avec Nathan Eager | 14m | ||||
Would welcome an explanation of how these climbs managed to score an anchor of about 15 bolts past and present...and it still looks jank. Two well placed stainless glue ins and some cammo chopped bolts anyone ???
|
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17 | ★★★ Flake Crack - avec Nathan Eager | 53m | ||||
First pitch only
|
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Ven 15 Jan 2021 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Windjammer - avec infamous_snapgate | 30m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Approachies send
|
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Jeu 14 Jan 2021 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Jaws - avec snapgate | 32m | ★★ Excellent | |||
16 | ★★ Man Overboard - avec snapgate | 26m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Approachies
|
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Sam 19 Déc 2020 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Red Riding Hood Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ When the Levee Breaks - avec Match | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Sam 3 Oct. 2020 - Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||||||
Gibraltar Peak Summit Boulders | ||||||
12 | ★ Get Your Motors Running | 20m, 2 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Mer 2 Sept 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
14 | ★★ Joseph - avec mikey mike | 46m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Warm ups
|
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17 | ★★★ Psychopath - avec mikey mike | 28m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Second in approachies, was a bit relucant to get back on it but feels like a must for each trip
|
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Jeu 16 Juil 2020 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Juggernaut - avec snapgate, Sean Kelly | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Resigned myself to a mixed face and crack approach with good results. Will have to lead next time- few large cams, with a 5 and 2 sixes.
|
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Mer 15 Juil 2020 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Devils Dihedral | 45m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Following the hectic 2 pitch, 2 day siege self-yoyo approach by snapgate. Mega classic with a lovely finish !
|
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Mer 15 Juil 2020 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★ Erg - avec snapgate | 25m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Snapgate tells me the tree anchor is a bit stuffed, recommends CIT bolted anchors.
Aided up a meter or two to check the gear for snapgates ascents given the routes history, all seemed fine. Beautiful route, awesome climbing. Paper book gives no stars, it can go get stuffed. |
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Mar 14 Juil 2020 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★★ Sorcerer's Apprentice | 30m | ||||
18 | ★★ Elastic RURP | 20m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Jam school with sean, felt a bit loose in approachies.
|
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Lun 13 Juil 2020 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★ The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine | 33m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
good to have big gear for the opening moves
|
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19 | ★★ Hollywood Rattlesnake | 18m | ||||
Sam 11 Juil 2020 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★ Warlock | 26m | ||||
That move right is wild on lead and seccond.
|
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Mar 7 Juil 2020 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Icebird | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Quick second before the rain.
|
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Sam 20 Juin 2020 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Superliner Area | ||||||
19 | ★★ Superliner | 35m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Recent rebolt - from upper stance fresh looking U bolts, single rack of cams +120 cm sling for thread.
|
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Dim 23 Fév 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Walk-Down Gully | ||||||
14 | ★★ Gently Mine | 50m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
No stuck cams today
|
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Ven 21 Fév 2020 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Mt Boyce Walk-Down Gully | ||||||
16 |
★★★ The Gates of Janus P1
1
16
20m
| 20m | ||||
Dim 1 Déc 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Lower Curtain Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Entertainer | 20m | ||||
So wild
|
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Dim 24 Nov. 2019 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Thunder Crack | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Jeu 1 Août 2019 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Rickety Kate | 15m | ||||
Jeu 1 Août 2019 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★★ Sorcerer's Apprentice | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
So good, thin ?fradgile corner leads to glory hands
|
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19 | ★★ Hollywood Rattlesnake | 18m | ||||
Needed to lower after hanging to clean gear. The top crack is sooo good
|
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Mer 31 Juil 2019 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Iron Mandible | 24m | ★ Bon | |||
Three star crack, minus 2 for the poorly protected face climbing start.
One of the three Stuck cams has been cleaned. |
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Jeu 18 Juil 2019 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
17 |
★★★ Smoked Banana
1
| 40m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
A no4 at the first chockstone and a no5 for the last move keeps it pg. Superclassic, don't walk past it.
|
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Mar 16 Juil 2019 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Iron Mandible | 24m | ||||
still don't like that low face climbing section, lovely upper.
|
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17 | ★★ Neon Philharmonic | 35m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Lun 19 Nov. 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites | ||||||
18 | ★★ Huey | 16m | ★★ Excellent | |||
What a line. Stiff start.
|
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Lun 19 Nov. 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★ Cheops | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
First moves seemed stiff for a book 18, started at tree - seemed a bit stiff.
|
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Sam 17 Nov. 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ Kinkaid | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Jeu 12 Juil 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
15 | ★ Bad Company | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Such quality rock at lower grade. Tree with Mallion lower off.
|
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17 | ★★ Micron | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Mar 10 Juil 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
16 | ★★ Materialistic Prostitution | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Doesn't work with a sprained ankle.
|
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Dim 8 Juil 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★ The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine | 33m | ||||
Soo good. Can use small gear out left to avoid large gear.
|
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Sam 7 Juil 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★ Chocolate Watch Band | 17m | ★★ Excellent | |||
19 | ★★ Sorcerers Apprentice | 30m | ||||
19 | ★★ Hollywood Rattlesnake | 18m | ||||
Lun 2 Juil 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★★ Hollywood Rattlesnake | 18m | ||||
20 | ★★★ Short Order | 30m | ||||
20 | ★★ The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine | 33m | ||||
Dim 1 Juil 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Cock Crack | 38m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Feels at least a grade easier then jugganaught, lovely hands and fist leasing to the wide, with great rests and features to keep things reasonable. As the crack widens Craig used ball nuts and a no3 c4 before launching up the arete and over the smokestack to the chains. Three stars for sure.
|
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Mer 27 Juin 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Devils Dihedral | 45m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Mega classic. Excellent gear, excellent climbing. Can rap with a 65m rope from the bolts above.
|
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Mar 26 Juin 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Plume | 25m | ||||
A bit thin and commuting in parts.
|
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Sam 23 Juin 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
14 | ★ Orchid Alley | 20m | ||||
Sam 16 Juin 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
16 | ★ Horse-drawn Zeppelin - avec kat, terry | 12m | ||||
Felt a little sketchy in approach shoes. Had a crack at getting the stuck small black cam out. It's moving, just needs a bit more attention to liberate.
|
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16 | ★ Mainliner - avec kat, terry | 20m | ||||
Difficult to protect early wide sections leads to pleasant jamming on the face, all over too soon.
|
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Jeu 14 Juin 2018 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Resurrection Corner | 25m | ||||
Stiff, insecure start leading to beautify cormer with a crack system on each. Kal regretted not bringing more 3/4 Camelot's.
|
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16 | ★ Forked Tongue | 15m | ||||
Favourite of the day, fun vari d climbing with good gear. Extra star if getting off was easier.
|
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19 | ★★ Southern Comfort | 15m | ||||
What a line. Gear looked good. What's the go with the lower off ? Two bolt hangers connected to chain with snaplink allow biners ? Works I guess.
|
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Ven 8 Juin 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
11 | ★★ Pedro - avec Ben | 36m | ||||
Ben chose the right hand start to keep it spicy . Just as enjoyabe the second time around, fitting last climb for the trip, sullied only by Ben shunning the bountiful cowbell placements.
|
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Mer 23 Mai 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
15 | ★★ Necrophilliac | 25m | ||||
Mer 23 Mai 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
12 | ★★★ Bard | 120m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Mer 23 Mai 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
16 | ★★ Libretto | 50m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Jeu 26 Avr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | ||||||
18 | ★★ King Rat | 20m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Lovely little climb
|
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Jeu 26 Avr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities | 30m | ||||
Mer 25 Avr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
18 | ★★★ Eurydice - avec timbo | 65m, 2 | ||||
Mer 25 Avr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Discord Direct - avec timbo | 25m, 2 | ★ Bon | |||
Dim 22 Avr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★★ Devoid | 35m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Thin moves down low lead to very reasonable climbing.
|
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Sam 21 Avr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
11 | ★★★ Agamemnon | 40m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Followed Jacob up the chimney for the first time. Gear not totally unreasonable but excellent climbing
|
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Sam 21 Avr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Kaiser - Resignation | 99m | ||||
Traverse a bit goey for a 15. Probably accidentally went high and found only limited gear.
|
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Ven 20 Avr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
14 | ★★ Megalomaniac | 28m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Jeu 19 Avr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ Crucifixion | 12m | ||||
Mer 18 Avr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
14 | ★★ D Minor | 35m | ★ Bon | |||
Mer 18 Avr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Dirge | 85m | ||||
P1 only
|
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18 | ★★ Jens roof | 30m, 1 | ||||
Mar 17 Avr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
9 | ★★ Conifer Crack | 80m | ||||
P1 only, rap off digareedoo
|
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Lun 16 Avr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
11 | ★★ Piccolo | 33m | ||||
Lun 16 Avr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
11 | ★★★ Agamemnon - avec adam | 40m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Dim 15 Avr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Yesterday Gully Lower Gully | ||||||
18 | ★ Turquoise | 25m | ||||
Ended up on mix green shit and turquoise
|
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Ven 13 Avr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Right Fork | ||||||
18 | ★★ King Rat | 20m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Lumpy on jugs and good jams. Great 3d moves. Gear looked good.
|
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Ven 13 Avr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area King Rat Gully Left Fork | ||||||
18 | ★★ I'm A Little Dinosaur - avec timbo | 25m | ||||
18 | ★★ I'm A Little Asteroid - avec timbo | 25m | ||||
Jeu 12 Avr 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Rosy Shy | 35m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Ven 30 Mars 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
12 | ★★★ Bard | 120m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Lead P1,3, mark P2, 4-5 with arete p5
|
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Mer 28 Mars 2018 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | ||||||
13 | ★★ Stalagmite | 36m | ||||
Second
|
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Sam 9 Déc 2017 - Mt Stuart | ||||||
The Playground | ||||||
17 | ★ Eye of the Tiger | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
19 | ★★ Simple Pleasures | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Dim 14 Fév 2016 - Mt Stuart | ||||||
The Playground | ||||||
17 | ★★ Cannonball | 22m | ★ Bon |