★★ The Block 22

Mostly trad multi up a series of splitter cracks. Rack - doubles from #0.3 to #3 Camalots and single set of wires. A few extra cams in the tight hand size could be handy as well a single #4 camalot. Belays are on small ledges. Rap in as for Sarlac.

1. 20m (17) Corner crack 2m right of the bolted slab of Sarlac pitch 1. At top of corner trend left to finish via last bolt of Sarlac. Belay off U bolts on big ledge.

2. 20m (20) Move belay 10m left to crack (trad belay). Layback or jam offset crack to "The Block" - don't worry its attached to the cliff with some creative engineering. Whimper around it then stem up amazing wave funnel plugging cams in the right crack. Belay on big ledge (U bolts).

3. 25m (22) The money pitch. Jam up stunning orange crack (wide down low then mostly tight hands/finger size). When crack evaporates at 15m traverse right onto bolted wall. Up this (crux) then trend left to small ledge stance in corner (U bolts). It is possible to break this pitch into two with trad belay above crack.

4. 30m (21) Stem up ugly rock to flake then traverse right under rooflet to ledge. Dawdle up easy ground to top and tree belay. 6 bolts - no trad on this pitch.

If bolting new routes please avoid squeeze jobs, linkups or variant starts/finishes. There is enough rock for heaps of independent lines. Go for a walk! If your proposed line comes within 3m of an established route, please ask the person whose route it is so as not to devalue their original vision. Avoid damaging any vegetation in this area.