Aide

Baldur Head

  • Contexte de la cotation : AU
2
AU

Résumé

Due south of Odins Head - Baldur was the Son of Odin.

Limit. de l'accès hérité de Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Approche

Access as for Odin's Head - Drive 1.6km along Victoria Falls Road. Park at a little turn off on the right.The route follows an old fire trail which can clearly be seen in the ariel photo. Fallen logs have been placed along the entire length of the fire trail. From the carpark follow fire trail east, at first turnoff take the right hand branch (currently large cairn marking this trail). Continue down slight slope to swampy clearing with views north to the Grose valley, up slight slope. At the next intersection take the left branch and after just over a kilometre from the car park continue straight (East) at the 3rd intersection, GR 482 803 (Using Mt Wilson topo third edition) and follow to its end at GR 486 802 . Now head north and then North East and pass through two discrete saddles to the top of 3/4 Crack at GR 487 803. Rap from tree atop of 3/4 Crack to base otherwise you can walk to the base of the cliff via gully at GR 485 804

Éthique hérité de Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

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Voies

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Cotation Voie

Short corner, only done as a warm up for 3/4 crack. Climb gingerly through shale - consider placing cam with a long stick to protect move, up nice but short corner to tree belay.

FA: Marty Doolan, Hugh Ward & Alex Forwell, 16 Fév 2018

Up steep layback corner for 10m, traverse left out to arête and up to stand on large block. Up reachy wall past 2 BR to roof, 1 BR then steep moves through roof and up fine crack. Double rack of cams with extra hand size pieces - 4x 2 camalots used on FA.

FA: Hugh Ward, Marty Doolan & Alex Forwell, 16 Fév 2018

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Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Auteur·e·s: Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

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Sam 27 Mai
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