Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | Grimpeur | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sam 27 Avr 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head Tower of Asgard | |||||||
21 | ★★ Where the Roodads Sing | 60m, 2 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Super fun crack. Hard thrutchy start gets you warmed for the rest. Great gear the whole way.
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Lun 11 Mars 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Joe Blake - avec Ian ORourke | 60m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Excellent crack with a kick in the tail. Mostly 1 & 2 cams down low and a couple of small cams for the top
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17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice - avec Ian ORourke | 45m, 5 | ★ Bon | ||||
Good hand crack to start and interesting moves on to arete. Rope got stuck on abseil down front face so make sure your knot is over the edge before descending
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Sam 3 Fév 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Joe Blake P1
- avec
rickau
1
19
| 60m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Sick-as line of (mostly) hands! Great pro throughout. Gets pretty tight in parts, so good for those with smaller mitts.
Slabby balancy finger section at the top was spooky for me. Definitely my anti style. There was probably better pro than a uncammed black totem and a shallow #4 nut Only climbed P1. Heard P2 was rubbish. |
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22 | ★★★ Sharp Shooter - avec rickau | 40m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Not one, but two hand jam roofs?! Sweet as!
Super cool crack line, but probably a touch soft for 22. I really shouldn't be onsighting at that grade. Other thoughts... hated the chimney below the second roof jam. Middle of the route is incredibly sandy and chossy for a 3 star climb, but fortunately the rest of the climbing makes up for it. |
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17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice - avec rickau | 45m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Warm up repeat. Actually climbed the route correctly this time (see prev ascent shenanigans). Discovered it was full of carrot bolts. Did not bring bolt plates. Used nuts instead.
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Dim 28 Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice | 45m, 5 | ★ Bon | ||||
The opening section was cool, but the long ramble to the top really didn't add anything.
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19 | ★★ El Dorado | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Engaging and interesting, if a bit dirty. Did it as two pitches, which may not be ideal, and the top pitch with only one #4 is indeed exciting
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Sam 13 Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice | 45m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams | 40m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
A quite varied climb! The overhang start and the off width/chimney section are pretty engaging even on top rope.
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Dim 10 Déc 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 | ★★ El Dorado | 35m | |||||
Dim 19 Nov. 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice | 45m, 5 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
22 | ★★★ Sharp Shooter | 40m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams | 40m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Dim 29 Oct. 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice | 45m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Dim 8 Oct. 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
22 ~20 | ★★★ Sharp Shooter - avec Luke Hef | 40m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams - avec Luke Hef | 40m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
19 | ★★ El Dorado - avec Luke Hef | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
23 | ★★★ Odin's Love Glove - avec Luke Hef | 20m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Worked moves, now to find placing gear beta
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Sam 16 Sept 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice - avec Aaron Wong | 45m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams - avec Aaron Wong | 40m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams - avec Henry Orton | 40m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
It goes! It's a very good climb. Did it with 1 less #1 than last time.
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Dim 10 Sept 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Joe Blake P1
- avec
Aurora Pandora
1
19
| 60m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice - avec Aurora Pandora | 45m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
19 |
★★ El Dorado
- avec
Aurora Pandora
1
19
2
17
| 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Sam 9 Sept 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Joe Blake - avec What.I.get.up.to | 60m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Good to come back to send it, glad I had loads of gear. My hardest trad send yewwww
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17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice | 45m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
19 |
★★ El Dorado
1
19
2
17
| 35m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Dim 13 Août 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams - avec Nat | 40m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice - avec Nat | 45m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Managed to forget about the traverse to fixed gear and decided to head into the corner and accidentally discover a new line.
Sling the large tree. Run out the chimney. Find a #3 placement at just the right time. Run out the off-width. Find a purple placement in a horizontal break. Scramble up some dirt and sandy rock way too run out above the past gear. Sling a shrub and pretend it'll hold a fall and scramble to the belay tree. Not my best big brain hour. |
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Sam 12 Août 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Joe Blake P1
- avec
Aurora Pandora
1
19
| 60m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Crag classic for sure! Amazing line with fantastic climbing and jamming that goes from hands to fingers. P2 didn't look too appealing.
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17 Facile | ★★ Master and the apprentice - avec Aurora Pandora | 45m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
19 |
★★ El Dorado
- avec
Aurora Pandora
| 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Great finger crack on P1 and solid lead by Aurora! P2 has a few fun roof moves. Used 2 #4.
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19 | ★★★ Joe Blake - avec Peter Melouney | 60m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Absolutely epic. Very secure hand jams and then thins out, need to come back and lead this. Didn't do p2 as didn't look great unless you have loads of small gear.
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17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice - avec Peter Melouney | 45m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Good hand jams to an actually fun and easy traverse and then quite exposed. Missed a couple of Carrots and ran it out but the top is easy enough.
|
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19 |
★★ El Dorado
- avec
Peter Melouney
1
19
2
17
| 35m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
The finger crack at the start is pretty thin and hard to get good finger locks although excellent gear. Got pretty pumped towards the top but fought the fight and miraculously sent it. At first i thought the chimney was quite intimidating but actually climbed pretty easy.
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Lun 10 Juil 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice | 45m, 5 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Why is Odin not that popular?? Cracks here are all time!
Forgot boltplates so used nuts on all the carrots. |
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19 | ★★★ Joe Blake | 60m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Beautiful crack ranging from perfect hands, to tight hands, to fingers. Consistently 1s for a fair portion. Felt hard for 19.
Top pitch has a fairly hard undercut start to get established in the corner then east ground with barely any gear until the top out. Probably not 18 and probably only 15m. Next time I would rap from P1. |
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Dim 9 Juil 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Joe Blake - avec Mathew Hutchins-Read | 60m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice - avec Mathew Hutchins-Read | 45m, 5 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Dim 25 Juin 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Joe Blake | 60m | |||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams | 40m | |||||
Sam 17 Juin 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams | 40m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
19 | ★★ El Dorado | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Ven 5 Mai 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 |
★★ El Dorado
- avec
Sean Peters, Oliver
1
19
2
17
| 35m | |||||
Linked as 1 pitch. Lots of .3s needed for the "finger" crack (which is the crux - it's not actually big enough for finger jams). I also used the corner and stepped on some vegetation since I couldn't find anything on the face to step on.
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20 | ★★★ True dreams - avec Sean Peters, Oliver | 40m | |||||
the undercut after the chimney felt nails through some combination of rope drag, lack of fitness and bad beta. try better rope management and more of the big right pocket next time?
|
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Sam 8 Avr 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice | 45m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams | 40m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
19 | ★★ El Dorado | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
climbed as 1 pitch
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Sam 18 Mars 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 | ★★ El Dorado - avec Brendan Coulter | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Quite a nice finger crack with face footers into hands and wild chimney, deece will be back, did in one pitch
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19 | ★★ El Dorado - avec Dylan Glavas | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Got entirely lost on the walk-in, leaving us with time for only one route. There some sick climbs here, but could really do with some more traffic to pound in that trail.
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Mer 28 Déc 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Joe Blake - avec Ash 'Newton' Brennan | 60m | |||||
Ash took P1 and nailed it! Bazangin climb that packs quite the punch. Odin really feels like a mini Ikara, which I guess it actually is, with Ikara just down the valley and the Odin walls being a little smaller. Style vvv similar as well, but also, obvi. How's that for a controversial opinion?
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20 | ★★★ True dreams - avec Ash 'Don't be a dumbass' Brennan | 40m | |||||
after some faff, I down climbed the cruxy start, unclipping all gear, but leaving one piece in that i later re-clipped. but my time climbing with ash has taught me to have a bit more fun and not be such a narc, ergo flash. no hands rests (actually primo sit down rests) are da bomb.
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19 |
★★ El Dorado
- avec
Ash 'I will never read Goosebumps as I swore a blood oath' Brennan, Jake Delaney
1
19
grimpé en tête par
Jake Delaney
bit of yoyo action - bring it back! fell on first piece (big ups black totem) and came back to earth and then fired it to the belay.
2
17
grimpé en tête par
Ash 'I will never read Goosebumps as I swore a blood oath' Brennan
| 35m | |||||
Mar 6 Déc 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams | 40m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Not alot of dreams came true finding the wall but they sure did on this climb! Good to link with rickety rick again and patrol the highlands of odin head hunting wild cracks
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Lun 5 Déc 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
22 | ★★★ Sharp Shooter | 40m | |||||
19 | ★★ El Dorado - avec Jack Seawright | 35m | |||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams | 40m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Great climb, lots of cool moves. No, the top of the chimney isn’t the end of the climb.
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17 ~18 | Hunger Games | 40m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
It’s a climb
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Dim 4 Déc 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 | ★★ El Dorado | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Mar 29 Nov. 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice | 45m, 5 | ★ Bon | ||||
Nice climb. Spicy start and traverse halfway up. Nothing else to note
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22 | ★★★ Sharp Shooter | 40m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Great crack line with some exposure, hand jamming, chimney all in one! Sent clean as a seconder
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Mar 1 Nov. 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams | 40m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Fun and varied, glad i didn't have to lead the tight chimney
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17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice | 45m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
19 | ★★★ Joe Blake | 60m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Sam 29 Oct. 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice — 2 essais - avec cédric | 45m, 5 | ★ Bon | ||||
Led the crack but was simply not vibing with the traverse, noped my way down. Had no regrets after watching Cédric just barely vibing with the carrot positions afterwards.
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19 |
★★ El Dorado
- avec
cédric
1
19
some great moves but some snappy bits
2
17
not sure what I would have done without 2 #4s! fun little chimney/roof thing, then it's an easy corner but full of dried mud, with take-home jugs on the walls, so having gear in for the finish is good! | 35m | ★ Bon | ||||
Ven 28 Oct. 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams | 40m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Felt like I was working very hard on lead. Was disheartened by how fast my second appeared. I've got bruises on my shoulders from the chimney. Lovely Jambs.
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17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice | 45m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
19 | ★★★ Joe Blake | 35m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Very cool pitch, felt tired and wasnt keen enough for tyhe second pitch.
|
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Sam 4 Juin 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Joe Blake | 60m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
19 | ★★ El Dorado | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
19 | ★★ El Dorado | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
19 | ★★ El Dorado | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Mar 1 Fév 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice | 45m, 5 | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Trad part was fun but sport was choss city!
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20 | ★★★ True dreams | 40m | ★ Bon | ||||
Learning to jam. Bit above my pay grade. Will be fun when I come back in a year or 2
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Sam 16 Oct. 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
16 | Tower of song - avec Bernard_P | 30m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Lighter colour rock on left is a bad as it looks. Stay right 😀. You need some big cams (size 5 and 6) I would suggest at least two in this size or the top of the flake will be a bit run out.
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17 | Hunger Games - avec Bernard_P | 40m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
See Bernard's comments below. Seriously requires at least three preferably four really big cams (size 5 and 6). The crux and top half of the climb only takes big cams. Also hard for the grade... not a great combination 😕
If you're good at off-width climbing and have big gear this may be your route if not I would suggest look elsewhere.
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17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice | 45m, 5 | |||||
A fun bolted slab - like Tom Thumb meets the Wolgan! Bring loong extenders (even double em up) as I feel the bolting requires them.
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20 | ★★★ True dreams - avec Dmitry Linkov | 40m | |||||
Tradddyyy. A bit of a grunt down low but a fun, fun, fun splitter is your reward! An abundance of no-hands rests gives it the grade.
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16 | Tower of song - avec Gavin Rech | 30m | |||||
The corner is sandy and every hold needs to checked or simply avoided, but the slab has a few good placements and good rock. More good gear in the middle part of the route and the bottom of the flake. The flake is awesome but quite intimidating. Yes, big cams needed for the middle/top of the flake, but there is a thread about 4-5m from the top. The flake lay-back moves are really cool - good footers on the left wall make a big difference. 16? Felt a bit harder than that, but it's somewhere around there.
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17 | Hunger Games - avec Gavin Rech | 40m | |||||
17? Really?? Hard to grade, given that I don't have good off-width technique, but 17 seems like a sandbag. Made it to the bottom of the #5 sized, slightly overhanging, crux crack (after the committing move off a small ledge as described in the route info). Couldn't see how to do it - my knee was too large to jam that in, fists and feet a bit too narrow. Backed off. Suggest 3 x #5 cams minimum for the top (we had only one). We had 2 x #4s and a #6 as well - used them all. Probably only a single rack of the other sizes for the rest. After my buddy managed to finish it by reaching to a hold up past the off width, using a bit of lay-back, and then diving left on to the slab (run out for 8-10m?), we got the top (avoiding the upper part of the off-width) and found a loose slope with loose blocks waiting to go down. The tree was burnt but regrowing nicely and made a good anchor (#0.5 cam in back wall added), but we decided to continue up to avoid the abseil and pulling a rope across the loose ledge. The top was another maybe 12m up some easy but not great rock, eventually to some good gear after a couple of sketchy moves. An adventure I don't plan on repeating anytime soon.
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17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice - avec Zi Hui Lie | 45m, 5 | |||||
Got sketched out at the traverse, felt like I had run out of gear (could do with more #.75s and #2s). So I lowered off and we yoyo-ed the lead.
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17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice - avec Zi Hui Lie | 45m, 5 | |||||
While I was belaying, Zi Hui Lie sent a huge rock down that had me diving for the cave, felt like a stampede came down upon me. After checking that I was still alive, I managed to send it nicely while seconding.
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Dim 3 Oct. 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Joe Blake | 60m | |||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice | 45m, 5 | |||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams | 40m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
A wild adventure, I can’t believe the variety of jams! I think I aged years. Felt like I was reborn after the squeeze chimney - “what’s happening to me?” I was humbly schooled by the cheese grater thin hands (not hand crack) above the giant lunch ledge. The spicy choss top teaches you how to ringlock properly
|
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19 | ★★ El Dorado | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
I said “falling” and Hunter Cole said “no you’re not”, next thing I knew I was at the top of my first 19 trad! The roof crux looked intimidating but it turned out to be a sweet little move. Learnt lots about finger cracks
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17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice - avec Jeremy | 45m, 5 | |||||
Classic - wanders, bring extenders
|
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19 |
★★★ Joe Blake
- avec
Jeremy
1
19
60m
2
18
| 60m | |||||
Rock quality not great in places - hold broke off and pulled on cam. Big jug at ledge before bolts not attached to much and v scary, careful.
Great climbing
|
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19 | ★★ El Dorado | 35m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams | 40m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
What a journey! If you have extra #1's definitely take them. Feels good to have the skin broken into again!
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Jeu 19 Août 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice | 45m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
A fantastic adventure in wild trad land! Becomes a classic when you bush bash through lawyer vine and return via Victoria Falls
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Sam 22 Mai 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 | ★★★ Joe Blake - avec Tim M-S | 60m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Up there with the best crack at the grade in the mountains. A little harder for someone with big feet and hands!
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17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice - avec Tim M-S | 45m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Very dirty after recent rain and like climbing in a refrigerator as it gets no sun. Hard start but the higher you get the easier it gets.
|
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Sam 15 Mai 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
21 | ★★ Dude where's my cam? | 45m, 4 | |||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams | 40m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Back to some blue collar crack bashing. My hands look worse after one pitch in the Blueys than after 14 days at Arapiles.
Definitely need a well rounded bag of crack tricks for this one. It's probably 20 if you can climb 20 in about 3 different crack styles at once but would feel miles harder if not.
An awesome awesome pitch, one of the best.
|
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Dim 9 Mai 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
20 | ★★★ True dreams - avec Roxy | 40m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Finally a send! There was many parts to this journey
Having freshly climbed 24 sport, and with the odd 21 under my belt on Trad, 20 was going on be no problems at all. "I'll just throw a warm-up lap on this before jumping on shaprshooter", I thought... But alas, Odin had different plans for me after a whip at the first crux and freaking out in the squeeze chimney I was relieved to bail down the rap line that was set. A few weeks later, now knowing what I was in for, "of course I'll get it this time". Once again destiny did not agree with ambition. After placing gear at 30cm spacings from the bottom I managed to get through the chimney with a 3 microcams remaining. Not a great position to be in as you stare up the third crux, a thin hand crack. Yet another bail. Third time lucky right? WRONG! After diligently spacing my gear I got to the chimney and hyperventilated trying to get out. That, in combination with the 30⁰+ day made me wobbly and nauseous heading into one of the hardest moves on the climb, straight off at fairly substantial ledge was decidedly suboptimal. Yet another bail. In my fourth attempt, 3 months later, after whipping at the first crux twice, I managed to get past the chimney with breath and gear remaining. Soaking up almost 2 hrs on the large rests and drinking a litre of water enroute, it was game time. Only 2 footholds broke on me, as did my crack gloves (whose thumbloop I accidentally clipped to a piece). But I got to the final crux and pushed through. 20 cams 3 hexes and many body wedges later I summited. What a mission! I loved it but won't be back on it for a while. Not a 20 in my opinion. Full value Trad! |
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Dim 2 Mai 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
17 | ★★ Master and the apprentice - avec Heath Black | 45m, 5 | ★ Bon | ||||
Hand crack is nice, put in new anchor sling and maillot above route. Thunderstorm coming
|
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19 | ★★★ Joe Blake - avec Heath Black | 60m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Pretty dirty after fires and floods but nice climbing
|