Aide

The Den

  • Contexte de la cotation : AU
  • Ascensions : 56

Saison

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Description

Steep sport climbing on good rock and even some nice dry bouldering. The 27 and 28 are among the best at the grade in the mountains. Great sporty bolting. There is currently the remains of an old mattress, fireplace and pots and pans in this cave.

Limit. de l'accès hérité de Little Italy

The area is not only a popular swimming spot for tourists, it also has special significance for women in the local Aboriginal community. Avoid developing new routes anywhere near the waterfall itself for obvious reasons. Caves that could be old Aboriginal occupation sites should be treated with care (The Den for example).

Approche

15- 30mins walk

Éthique hérité de Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Voies

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Cotation Voie

First route at left hand end of the cave, past motorpussy

Équip.: Cameron

Steep, Hard, bloody awesome 4 metres right of Who'd be a cop project. Very hard climbing thru steep territory, many a strong lad had a crack before Chris got the tick.

Équip.: Dave Gliddon

FFA: Chris Webb, 2006

Rad rock, hard moves then the crux!! pull from a tiny crimp and its in the bag! Up Motor Pussy to 3rd bolt (??) then head right.

FFA: Garth Miller, 2007

A half bolted line that looks so very impossible.

5 meters right of Motor Pussy. Project by Garth traversing the roof in the main cave, exit cave right and up.

Équip.: Garth / Macca

Starts 3m right of Project (TakeYa Time) Straight up thru roofs across TT and thru top roof.

Équip.: Garth / Macca

2 metres left of SimDiddy Super hard project by Zac thru the short roof at the right hand end of the cave.

Équip.: Zac

On right hand edge of cave, 3 metres left of MacDaddy. Awesome steep bouldery climbing with a great mix of holds. A few good rests split the climbing but you really have to hang on tight to the top.

FFA: Simon Wilson

'The route of the crag' The obvious line viewed from across the creek on the walk in. Great climbing, awesome fun. Bolted by Macca.

The obvious line up the 'blunt' arete. Up to corner, left along lip then up.

Équip.: Macca

FFA: Elmars mate / Macca

Start up Mac Daddy, finishing at Big Trouble in Little Italy chains Start up Mac Daddy heading diagonally right and up at the 3rd bolt thru some very thin holds and up Big Trouble to finish.

FFA: Garth Miller, 2006

The first sport route done at the crag. The corner and arete 3 meters right of Mac Daddy. Up slab, hard move off pocket then jugs to glory.

FFA: Dave Gliddon

The obvious corner system. First route of the cliff, enabling top access. Ground up. Right of BTiLI. Up corner system to top then left. Don't go right.

FA: Macca / Julian Bell

6 metres left of One on One, the left hand line thru the 'second' cave. Bolted by Macca. Start at small roof, up to main roof and out to middle of roof. Possible hard boulder to to reach lip.

Équip.: Macca

The right hand line in the 'second' cave. Awesome climbing thru a great roof to an extremely hard boulder at the lip. Good 27'ish to the lip, * . Bolted on lead by Macca and Dave. 2 metres leftt of Activation on buttress directly above where the track meets the crag Up wall to the roof, out roof, up headwall and right then thru top roof to point then jump. Excellent climbing through roof.

Équip.: Macca & Dave

FFA: Garth / Macca

Activate Baby. The first route you come to when arriving at the crag (hint: look straight up). Bolted ground up on lead by Macca and Vinnie. Directly above where the track hits the crag. 2 meters right of One on One Up obvious slab to the overhanging corner. Left to arete, up and right to top, then jump.

Équip.: Macca & Vinnie

FFA: Zac Vertrees, 2006

These next 3 climbs are on the major wall, 60m right. The rock and climbing is much better then it looks.

Short but punchy number, the holds look good from down low but aren't.

First ascent details unknown.

An easy and enjoyable wall leads to a reachy thin move just before the roof. A long and pumpy jug traverse left on ironstone bricks top this pumper.

First ascent details unknown.

A good juggy warm up arete. A couple of tricky moves here and there but good value.

FA: Unknown

Le saviez-vous ?

Saviez-vous que vous pouvez créer un compte pour enregistrer, suivre et partager vos ascensions ? Des milliers de grimpeurs le font déjà.

Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Auteur·e·s: Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Logements à proximité plus Cacher

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