Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | Grimpeur | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mar 23 Avr 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
25 |
★★ Roger's Smegma Chute
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
23 |
★★ Mal's Mega Route
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
22 |
★★ Samnivel
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Sam 30 Mars 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Nice wide crack. Anchor options at the top are limited given the good trees burnt down in the last bushfire.
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Mer 28 Fév 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
18 Difficile |
★ Ooops
![]() | 15m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Lun 26 Fév 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
18 Difficile |
★ Ooops
![]() | 15m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
20 Difficile |
★★ Metabo Man
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Sam 27 Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | ★ Bon | ||||
A few fun moves, pushing a #6. Then a long average ramble to the top
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12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Really fun route. Used #5 at the start which was the crux of the route. Very cruisy after about 5 metres. Crack seemed to like #4 and #3s most of the way. Used a large boulder for an anchor and then walked back down. Would have loved some lower offs at the top
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Sam 20 Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
25 |
★★ Roger's Smegma Chute
![]() | 20m | ★ Bon | ||||
Dangerous crux(ledge)
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23 |
★★ Mal's Mega Route
![]() | 20m | |||||
Sick
|
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17 |
★★ Technical Stuff
![]() | 20m, 6 | |||||
19 |
★★ Technical Stuff (direct start)
![]() | 20m | |||||
Lun 1 Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Twilight sends with no wide gear, jsut beans and the slung pocket. Token beer chug with my Alex Honnold moment, looking out at the setting sun!
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Dim 17 Déc 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | |||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | |||||
Dim 10 Déc 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | |||||
Dim 3 Déc 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | |||||
Onsight to the anchor at halfway. Got to second the top too. First half is classic, second half less so. Having 2 #4's was a nice luxury.
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Mer 1 Nov. 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | |||||
Lun 2 Oct. 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | |||||
12 ~14 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | |||||
Traverse to anchors on the right felt a little sketchy and hard to protect. Very enjoyable
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Sam 30 Sept 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
23 |
★★ Mal's Mega Route
![]() | 20m | |||||
Classic - if only it was a bit longer!
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22 |
★★ Samnivel
![]() | 20m | |||||
Unfortunate sun aspect meant that the micro holds on this route were completely hidden
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18 |
★ Ooops
![]() | 15m | |||||
23 |
★★ Mal's Mega Route
![]() | 20m | |||||
reopened my tip and spurted blood all over the crux crimps again.
Crux sequence from the good rail: RF heel hook, traverse hands out left until both are on the crimpy rail, bump RF heel hook up and get LF heel too, can clip off this and almost-statically get RH to bad horizontal crimp left of rusty carrot. work to more bad crimps on diagonal and then keep moving left until jugs and clip. Top beta: crimp out right is deeper than it looks and much improves percentages on the throw. try not to grab a jugful of guano. |
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18 |
★ Ooops
![]() | 15m | |||||
typical blueys crimps and throws, but with an atypical lack of chalk
|
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23 Facile |
★★ Mal's Mega Route
![]() | 20m | ★ Bon | ||||
Really nice. Softy, but the grade might hold for the onsight, the crux is pretty blind and there's zero chalk on it.
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18 ~19 |
★ Ooops
![]() | 15m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Desperate.
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Dim 17 Sept 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
25 |
★★ Roger's Smegma Chute
![]() | 20m | |||||
Very nice! Any bolting fairies want to chuck an extra bolt in the crux so this thing can get the attention it deserves?
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23 |
★★ Mal's Mega Route
![]() | 20m | |||||
21 |
★ Panasonic Princess
![]() | 20m | |||||
25 |
★★ Roger's Smegma Chute
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Dave with that high quality beta 😘 Only the vertically challenged would need to dyno at the end.
Certainly deserves more attention, awesome rock and sweet moves, but getting a draw on the 5th bolt (4th ring) looked intimidating. It could be clipped with a 60cm draw from a reasonable position below. An extra bolt in the crux would reduce the risk of ledge falls and undoubtedly make this more popular. |
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23 Facile |
★★ Mal's Mega Route
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Reeally nice rock
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21 |
★ Panasonic Princess
![]() | 20m | ★ Bon | ||||
Bit gross at the bottom with good climbing and nice rock at the top with easy climbing.
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Jeu 27 Avr 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | |||||
Ben took the lead on this one. Decent route that's thrutchy at the start and then eases off in difficulty quickly
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Mar 18 Avr 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
15 |
★★ Fohn
![]() | 20m, 1 | |||||
22 |
★★ Samnivel
![]() | 20m | |||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | |||||
18 ~21 |
★ Ooops
![]() | 15m | |||||
Maybe an 18 for a tall person. I had to dyno. Much steeper than it looks.
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Dim 16 Avr 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Dim 12 Mars 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
12 ~15 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
12 ~15 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | |||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | |||||
Dim 26 Fév 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | |||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Fun easy climb. I thought there were anchors to the top so left all stuff down amd abseiled back down from a nearby tree and re-climbed it.
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Sam 18 Fév 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
23 |
★★ Mal's Mega Route
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
21 |
★ Panasonic Princess
![]() | 20m | ★ Bon | ||||
22 |
★★ Samnivel
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Dim 12 Fév 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
My brain didn't take note of the word wide when I read the guide. But it climbed much easier than it looks. Was nice to have a #5 and a #6. Top belay tree wasn't great but there's options to back it up.
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12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | |||||
Mer 11 Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
23 ~22 |
★★ Mal's Mega Route
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Too short to be classic but it does cram the good stuff in. Better than I remembered. 20 years gets me deja-flash, but geez we musta got strong fingers faffing with carrots. 22 for old times sake.
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Lun 26 Sept 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Lun 12 Sept 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | |||||
seconding on burnt tree belay of an unknown quality... It'll grow bigger I think
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12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Hopefully the tree belay keeps growing back.
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Dim 29 Mai 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
23 |
★★ Mal's Mega Route
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Went second go after working out a crux sequence.
A proud arete, with an interesting and sustained crux. The rest of the route isn't nearly as good, but its worth it for the crux.
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Lun 18 Avr 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
17 |
★★ Technical Stuff
![]() | 20m, 6 | |||||
Surprisingly hard arete climb with a few big moves
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Mar 5 Avr 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
23 |
★★ Mal's Mega Route
![]() | 20m | |||||
Had to pull on the quickdraw to get through the crux at the bulge, everything else was clean.
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Sam 1 Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
15 |
★★ Fohn
![]() | 20m, 1 | |||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | |||||
21 |
★ Panasonic Princess
![]() | 20m | |||||
15 |
★★ Fohn
![]() | 20m, 1 | |||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | |||||
21 |
★ Panasonic Princess
![]() | 20m | |||||
Mar 21 Déc 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
18 17 |
★★ Technical Stuff
![]() | 20m, 6 | ★ Bon | ||||
Climbing without cams made this a little hairy, there are some long gaps between the carrots. The crux on this is at the nose of the arête, moving from the right side of the arête to the left about two thirds of the way up, and it is difficult. Being above empty space, with no substantial feet, this felt like a solid boulder problem. I'd put this crux at a 19/20, and it really threw us. The rest of the climb is a 17 particularly, when cams are used. My climbing partner even on top rope, had a very hard time navigating the crux.
This was the second grade 17 out of three for the day and we weren't stoked with the grading.
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Mar 2 Nov. 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
21 |
★ Panasonic Princess
![]() | 20m | ★ Bon | ||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
crux at the start then easy ground. bring big gear.
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Mer 6 Oct. 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
23 |
★★ Mal's Mega Route
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Got it second shot, couple of tricky crimps over the bulge then just a bit pumpy. Can't give it three stars because of the average first 12m of climbing on Lichen.
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Mar 5 Oct. 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
17 |
★★ Technical Stuff
![]() | 20m, 6 | ★ Bon | ||||
Decent, took the easier variant on the left, just climbed less contrived. Used a Red and a Blue cam from memory.
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18 |
★ Ooops
![]() | 15m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Super stiff couple of moves for 18. Actually slipped off the left hand crimp above the second draw on the first shot. Very disappointing hahah.
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12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Such a fun climb, awesome crack. Wish the climb on the right put the anchors up higher, would be nice to share that overkill anchor. Instead of topping out and/ or rapping off the gum tree/bush.
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Ven 3 Sept 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
17 |
★★ Technical Stuff
![]() | 20m, 6 | ★ Bon | ||||
Pretty fun really, though should just have one more bolt at the start and be a sport route. Wandered back and forth between arete sides as it seemed contrived to stick to just one.
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23 |
★★ Mal's Mega Route
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Pretty fun but not three stars. The start detracts and then it's all over too fast. Brilliant short section on great rock though.
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25 |
★★ Hermaphrodite Hamster
![]() | 20m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Realllly quite hard but actually pretty awesome pure slabbing. Figured it all out and I think I could do it without too much effort, but oh boy is it insecure, and reachy. I also contrived myself quite hard to make sure I was having a full value slab experience. There is a spot or two (especially at the top) where the climbing becomes more escapable. Tried it twice on TR.
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12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Actually completely brilliant. Has to be up there with Honey Dip for best easy things in the mountains, and such a line too!! I really loved it.
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18 |
★ Ooops
![]() | 15m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Nails for the grade!
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Dim 4 Avr 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
23 |
★★ Mal's Mega Route
![]() | 20m | |||||
Dim 15 Déc 2019 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
23 |
★★ Mal's Mega Route
![]() | 20m | |||||
Mer 6 Nov. 2019 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
23 |
★★ Mal's Mega Route
![]() | 20m | |||||
26 |
★ Calamity Jane
![]() | 20m | ★ Bon | ||||
One hard move. Going back to nature. Needs a clean and like a lot of routes around here malon and rings missing at the top
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Dim 6 Oct. 2019 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
15 |
★★ Fohn
![]() | 20m, 1 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
17 |
★★ Technical Stuff
![]() | 20m, 6 | |||||
23 |
★★ Mal's Mega Route
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
23 |
★★ Mal's Mega Route
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
23 |
★★ Mal's Mega Route
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Punted today by half a cm on one crimp!
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23 |
★★ Mal's Mega Route
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Punted today by half a cm on one crimp!
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15 |
★★ Fohn
![]() | 20m, 1 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Sam 20 Juil 2019 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
23 |
★★ Mal's Mega Route
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Wow. Stunning piece of rock with a distinct crux and some feisty but doable crimping. Well bolted, except for the very high 1st bolt. Climb to the first major ledge and using long stick clip worked, as would a cam in a slot 4m up. Easy ground though. Crux fall was fun!
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18 |
★ Ooops
![]() | 15m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Excellent climb, but a bouldery couple of moves at 2nd bolt to a deadpoint (dyno to good shelf if you're under 174cm) feels a little rough for 18. Great moves though and the remainder is in grade.
Lower offs at roughly 15m, one hanger up further I assume to top out if you want to the easy ramble above..?
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Dim 30 Juin 2019 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
23 |
★★ Mal's Mega Route
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Spent the day working this and fell off on my last burn after pulling the crux desperately. Got my beta solid the next try so reckon it will go next time.
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Jeu 30 Mai 2019 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
12 |
★★ Dragon's Tooth
![]() | 30m | |||||
19 |
★★ Technical Stuff (direct start)
![]() | 20m | |||||
21 |
★ Panasonic Princess
![]() | 20m | |||||
Dim 17 Fév 2019 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Dragon's Tooth Area | |||||||
21 |
★ Panasonic Princess
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Guidebook says 20 and I would agree. But spicy climbing to be had.
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15 |
★★ Fohn
![]() | 20m, 1 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
If you ever feel like you have climbed up the grade ladder and are too proud of it. Try Fohn.
Fohn helps restore humility and compassion by kicking ass and expanding the mind. |
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19 |
★★ Technical Stuff (direct start)
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
O boy! Did I not freak out at that mini roof. Clip on the right side, traverse to the left of the arete, comprehend the bulge, pull up on the right hand, fanatically look for a left hand hold, trust some shit pinch, legs dangling everywhere, just use the F-ing knee to get up, feel your balls slide back down
your throat (male only content) and then breathe, the worst is over with.
Why did I watch that video of a guy snapping his rope on an arete traverse. Knowledge is painful. |