Voies dans SSCC4 Area

30m L of Pyro.

1. Groove, L to ledge and tree belay.

2. Wall then flake (sling tree) to small tree.

3. Bulge, slight left and up to tree.

Take some gear. Batman to carrot on lip (!), 1m L of the arete 3m left of Pyro. Follow carrots.

Arête next to Pyro. Start up corner then veer left onto arête, up to first Anchors. Very technical climbing with several cruxes. Put your thinking cap on.... (there's 2 crimps in the first Boulder that are quite often moist. be careful not to blow a tendon. once chalked up they stay dry.)

The mega extension to Utopia. very Athletic, über pumper to the end.... a full 80m rope gets you down to the ground, or rethread at first anchors.

This is the corner at the left hand end of the SSCC4 slab.

1. Corner and little roof to belay.

2. Crack to top.

slab 5 m right of Pyro. Technical slab climbing. You'll either love it or hate it!!!! Depending on your skills could be anything between 25-27!!

Carrots to the left of SSCC4. Also requires gear, but don't fall on it. Needs rebolting!

Sustained slab. Look for the painted initials 4m up, beside the big block split away from the slab.

1. 25m (23) Tough first move, but then keep it together. Absorbing climbing on rings and historic fixed hangers.

2. 25m (24) The reputation pitch!

Very good. Has 2 totally different pitches. Start 3-4m L of Excalibur at the ring bolts. At the end of pitch one consider building the first bolt of pitch two into the anchor to allow for the stance to be much higher and more comfortable, the current anchor forces a painfully bunched belay.

1. 27m (22) Very trad, for a sport pitch. Corner to faint arete. A hold at the start came off so this pitch is a little harder now, but really worth the effort.

2. 20m (25) Some consider that this is one of the best aretes in the mountains!

Crack and groove. Overgrown. A version (?) of this route has been freed by Lee Cossey in 2004. All gear except anchor. Can climb and rap on 60m rope.

1. 30m (20) The crack 6-7m L of Excalibur, chossy start. Can also start as for Bareback and head right on better rock, but unprotected. Belay on Bareback anchor.

2. 25m (22) The groove above?

1. 30m Start up CL for half a dozen bolts or so before drifting left into Excelsior at about 3/4 height. Some small cams for the crack or very runout to DRBB.

2. 23m (27) Bronco style up arete and through roof to join Bareback.

Starts right of Excelsior, 3-4m L of Excalibur. up chossy arete to awesome face on fixed hangers (red). Excellent climbing! Has a bit of reinforcement at the top. Runout.

The major chimney with crack above.

1. 35m Climb crack through poor rock into chimney. Up chimney then out onto wedged block and up to a ledge 3m above. Traverse along ledge and climb flake. Up blocks into small cave chimney. Up and out over small roof and belay on ledge below overhang.

2. 40m Up groove above then 2 skyhooks and 2 aid bolts below overhang to BR at lip. Climb crack above, fight past bushes into a small niche. Up groove above past loose looking boulder into crack which leads to the top.

A piece of aid on the second pitch was eliminated on a subsequent ascent.

Bring 4 bolt plates, and 0.4, 0.75 and #3 cams for P2.

1. 20m (20) As for Lucifer's Hammer.

2. 40m (25) As for Lucifer's Hammer for 2 FHs, then head up a scary arete (carrots). Barndoor all the way! Old anchor.

1. 20m (20) Very choss, but worth it for pitch 2. Start 1m R of Excalibur. UB then FHs up choss into corner. Through the steep bit to a semi-hanging belay at small foot ledge (DRB).

2. 40m (25) Left and up arete and wall for about 6m to break, then R and up the middle of the beautiful face to lower-off. This pitch is all new RBs (approx 15 bolts) except for the old anchor. You need to lower off the last RB if your rope is less than 70m.

Start 2m R of Lucifer's Hammer. Sandy start with a high 1st FH; stick-clip may be prudent. Follow the R line of FHs thru choss for 15m, heading for the exposed right arete. After pulling through the roof, you are rewarded with a delightfully sculpted 10m arete. Chain lower-off.

Start on large detached block 5m right of Excelsior.

1. 20m Traverse right to groove. Up it for 5m then move right to small belay stance. Peg anchor.

2. 40m Up groove above belay to horizontal break, up steep wall right to small bulge. Over this on right to rest. Lassoe a small flake then use it to climb to the flake. Move rightwards and up to good belay ledge. Bolt and peg anchor.

3. 30m Up wall above for 15m to smooth section. Up its left hand side then continue up corner to top.

Start as for of Bewt Root.

1. 20m As for 1st pitch of Bewt Root.

2. 35m Up groove above belay to horizontal break. Up steep wall on right to a small bulge with a crackline on left. Bewt Root traverses right here. Up crack above, through small overhang to a horizontal break. Move right and up onto small ledge - DBB.

3. 30m Diagonally left for 7 metres, up wall above to top and tree anchors.