Ascensions dans Cheap Dive Wall and Beyond

Wander up to first BR then start slab climbing for 5m

LED with Ant 1980

led

overhung hands to chimbly then surfboard, absolute gold!

@nded Nick Kaz after he got himself unstucked from chimney

deserves a star. bettter than it looks.

Scarey face grating slab

Blocky climbing with poor pro after 1st belay

with cate

Do 1st pitch only to new lower offs. look for giant bolt at chimney then step left. Probably 16 at least.

Great! No stars in the current guidebook? Brilliant trad climbing on great rock and with awesome movement and gear. Climbs much easier than it looks and its easy to rap off the anchors for Cheap Dive and clean that way. What more could you want?

Intimidating! Monstrously steep. Clean to the crux move (turning the lip) and then I got scared! A few rests to figure out the crux move, then clean to the top. The lower section is scary rock and gear, but as the climb improves so does the gear. Delicate technical climbing under the roof and arete to the waco, then exposed strenuous crux. The vegetation isn't as bad as it looks. You can thank me for the chalk on the hard-to-spot crucual hold to gain the crux. I WILL be back for the send!

Great crack climbing if you force the crack (and avoid using the face). Should have led it.

Second pitch 2. Pretty easy.

Alright, so maybe it was a bit ambitious to try and tick this in the afternoon after ticking Grasshopper. With 3 hours daylight left I launched up this. Fell off at the main crux (and chucked a spaz after a particularly painful, gear-ripping fall which damaged my glasses). Found my sequence and went to the top. The roof of this is WAY more vegetated than when I tried this last 4 years ago (and I pulled out mountains of shrubbery back then too!), and I managed to rip out a tonne of vegetation on lead (got pretty pumped too!) mid-roof. This is a great, intimidating route with a hard and committing crux, but the first 6m of death shale is bloody horrible.

Yeeeew! 1st shot today placing all gear on lead, 3rd shot total over 3.5 years. As I've said before, this is classic EXCEPT for the poxy shale-start. Once you get in the crack proper, it's great trad climbing that just gets harder and more committing all the way. The crux for this is absolutely crazy (and really hard for me, I'm cranking solid 24 through that crux sequence... might be easier if you're short, or have beefy fingers?) and intimidating now that the fixed wire is a long-forgotten memory... Hanging upside down on the lip of a roof-arete via a heel-toe-cam to place a cam in the crack below is ridiculously cool. Very acrobatic and strenuous.

Great fun and well worth a lap! Only went to the top of the chimney then rappelled off the sling tree.

Fun corner climbing into chimney (but not really any chimney thrutching needed).

Rock early seemed a little fragile.

BETA SPOILERS AHEAD -> You've seen the photos, you've heard the stories: this line looks amazing. The moment you see that corner leading into an exposed roof traversing into the abyss you are left with mixed feelings of intimidation and excitement. The next moment, when you are tied in at the bottom staring at the first 3m of choss, that has no doubt changed forms since the first ascent, it leaves you with second thoughts, and third thoughts. Once I built up the courage (read: stupidity) to swim through to the first solid hold, the corner and roof are pleasant, besides the jungle feel of reaching around ferns to place gear and to dig out holds. It just adds to the climb's uniqueness, I suppose. I reach the end of the roof (gr 21-22 till here, minus the choss start), place two bomber pieces, and reach round for what I was always hoping to be a jug. To my surprise it was huge. But, a jug to no where. Without the crucial pieces to protect the next section (#0.5 BD) and the prospect of my rope running over the arete and slicing in two (https://tinyurl.com/ycues8g3), I embraced defeat...I lowered down, to then jumar back up and aid past the crux to free (read: flail) to the top in approach shoes with entries catching on the shale ledges. I suppose if you worked out the crux, heightened your risk tolerance to welcome choss piles of death and don't mind jungle fever, then give it a go!

Nice corner

can link first two pitches into one nice pitch. the following chimney looks rubbish, avoid it.

way steeper than than expected. this crack is quite unique as you can jam pinch and layback up the vertical ironstone band. then into a tight bottomless chimney. than thrutch your way to success! if you rack your cams on your left it would be way easier.

Had been saving this one for far too long , and Vinnie was psyched for it so I joined in, somebody had to clean it after all ...

Enjoyable climbing up to the roof that lulls you into a false sense of difficulty before suddenly turning up a notch at the lip ... bit of flash/cleaning pump and bad hand placement caught me out on the first shot but then climbed through ...

Great route, will be back for the full tick soon ..

Another ripper. Great day out

Average rock, nice climbing

First lead trad route.

adding to my list

Really bloody nice. Sick start crux, sit down rest, mega pocketed sequence to stellar deadpoint and cruisy climbing to top. Kneebar rest before top lip lets some juice drain. A few attempts and went 😃. Short but sweet.

Short but interesting moves. Got scared going for 4 th bolt on the onsight and though the sequence was good and I did have the clipping hold it felt very unsafe. Much better second go with a longish draw in situ. Cool move at last bolt.