Ascensions dans Cheap Dive Wall and Beyond

Thought this was a solid 23. Sustained. Great route.

1st shot after cheap dive

23 in the guide and solid for that grade. Nice to onsight this one. Powerful moves getting to the arete then okay. Really cool

Only really worked the first 5 bolts - all the moves went there and the final roof is easy too. Crux looked hard, didn't really try it. A windy, shivering day, but not as cold as when it was bolted!

70m rope lowers from 2nd-last bolt, but there's still a 5 meter exit ramp after that.

stuck the low crux but broke a hold. Don't worry, there are plenty of better holds around at that point.

Sport route with optional cams. Some delicate arete moves. Start is more pleasant than it looks. Probably still soggy at 18. Nose-butting sharp edges not recommended, chunky gusher.

Seconded this but didn't feel like more gear was needed than just the bolts. Cruxy start and a reachy arete midway but the rest is very straightforward

Super route. Well bolted, got stumped after the huecos briefly. Found the static finish and an alternative throw finish

adding to my list

Great fun.

Great route. Those scoops at the start! Had to downclimb a section above the break but stuck it. The arete had me smiling

First lead trad route.

Really bloody nice. Sick start crux, sit down rest, mega pocketed sequence to stellar deadpoint and cruisy climbing to top. Kneebar rest before top lip lets some juice drain. A few attempts and went 😃. Short but sweet.

Fun!

Average rock, nice climbing

Another ripper. Great day out

Had been saving this one for far too long , and Vinnie was psyched for it so I joined in, somebody had to clean it after all ...

Enjoyable climbing up to the roof that lulls you into a false sense of difficulty before suddenly turning up a notch at the lip ... bit of flash/cleaning pump and bad hand placement caught me out on the first shot but then climbed through ...

Great route, will be back for the full tick soon ..

way steeper than than expected. this crack is quite unique as you can jam pinch and layback up the vertical ironstone band. then into a tight bottomless chimney. than thrutch your way to success! if you rack your cams on your left it would be way easier.

Nice moves, definitely no harder than the route to the left

can link first two pitches into one nice pitch. the following chimney looks rubbish, avoid it.

Nice corner

BETA SPOILERS AHEAD -> You've seen the photos, you've heard the stories: this line looks amazing. The moment you see that corner leading into an exposed roof traversing into the abyss you are left with mixed feelings of intimidation and excitement. The next moment, when you are tied in at the bottom staring at the first 3m of choss, that has no doubt changed forms since the first ascent, it leaves you with second thoughts, and third thoughts. Once I built up the courage (read: stupidity) to swim through to the first solid hold, the corner and roof are pleasant, besides the jungle feel of reaching around ferns to place gear and to dig out holds. It just adds to the climb's uniqueness, I suppose. I reach the end of the roof (gr 21-22 till here, minus the choss start), place two bomber pieces, and reach round for what I was always hoping to be a jug. To my surprise it was huge. But, a jug to no where. Without the crucial pieces to protect the next section (#0.5 BD) and the prospect of my rope running over the arete and slicing in two (https://tinyurl.com/ycues8g3), I embraced defeat...I lowered down, to then jumar back up and aid past the crux to free (read: flail) to the top in approach shoes with entries catching on the shale ledges. I suppose if you worked out the crux, heightened your risk tolerance to welcome choss piles of death and don't mind jungle fever, then give it a go!

Great fun and well worth a lap! Only went to the top of the chimney then rappelled off the sling tree.

Fun corner climbing into chimney (but not really any chimney thrutching needed).

Rock early seemed a little fragile.

Enjoyable climb. Starts with cool in-cut scoops that leads to the crux before the traverse (at least for the onsight). Then pretty easy sailing to the top with several ledges to take good rests on if needed.

2nd shot easily. Stuffed up the 'crux' sequence around the 3rd bolt. Once I had my beta it was no harder then the rest of the climb.

Yeeeew! 1st shot today placing all gear on lead, 3rd shot total over 3.5 years. As I've said before, this is classic EXCEPT for the poxy shale-start. Once you get in the crack proper, it's great trad climbing that just gets harder and more committing all the way. The crux for this is absolutely crazy (and really hard for me, I'm cranking solid 24 through that crux sequence... might be easier if you're short, or have beefy fingers?) and intimidating now that the fixed wire is a long-forgotten memory... Hanging upside down on the lip of a roof-arete via a heel-toe-cam to place a cam in the crack below is ridiculously cool. Very acrobatic and strenuous.

Awww... Broke a tic-tac crux hold off while cruising (at the 3rd bolt), and thus ends the onsight attempt. Lowered off to the ground and climbed up again from there clean to the top. Aw well... Not as nice as Cheap Dive, but still quite engaging, and I thought pretty hard for a 22? There are tricky moves all the way up. Very worthwhile.

Alright, so maybe it was a bit ambitious to try and tick this in the afternoon after ticking Grasshopper. With 3 hours daylight left I launched up this. Fell off at the main crux (and chucked a spaz after a particularly painful, gear-ripping fall which damaged my glasses). Found my sequence and went to the top. The roof of this is WAY more vegetated than when I tried this last 4 years ago (and I pulled out mountains of shrubbery back then too!), and I managed to rip out a tonne of vegetation on lead (got pretty pumped too!) mid-roof. This is a great, intimidating route with a hard and committing crux, but the first 6m of death shale is bloody horrible.

Had no cams for the first lap.