Voies dans Thor Head

One really long and sustained wall pitch and one short exit pitch. Rock quality isn't immaculate but it's a gorgeous line of least resistance with no escape for the forearms. Approach: walk in as for Thor Head main wall (down to Asgard Swamp and up the ridge until the views of the Grose reveal themselves). The track flattens out on this ridge and about 50m before Thor Head main wall the track drops slightly to a rocky flat area which is a good lookout. Exit tourist track on the right side just before this and walk back along edge of cliffline past small sandy cave for 30m to find fixed rope tied around small trees (GPS -33.5512, 150.2991 - refer to topo). Rap down this rope for 5m to ledge - walk across this (clipped into fixed rope) for 10m to rap anchors in small cave. Best to FIX a 60m+ rope to this anchor and bomb straight down to ledge and start of route. This bottom ledge is big and comfy and safe to walk around on unroped.

1. 50m (26) Long complex wall and flake features that doesn’t let up the whole way. Has a bit of a traverse right in the middle and a traverse left near the end. Belay on good ledge at two FHs. 25+ bolts.

2. 15m (18) Hangers up wall and corner right of the belay to rap anchors that you rapped in from. 4 bolts.

Great little trad outing with a stellar middle pitch. First pitch blocky crack to corner, leading to a belay ledge. There are 3 variant cracks for the middle pitch. The stellar right hand, finer crack is superb. Then there is a wide book corner to the top that will take a five cam.

The left arete of the main wall. Superseded by the new right hand variant 'I Hurt it on the Grapevine'. 2nd pitch is the good one, first is pretty worthless.

Start: Fix 70m rope from trees about 5m south from the summit rock blob. There are double ring bolts on the top of the arete (50m to hanging belay)

1. 25m (22) Up chossy flake (scary start) and leftwards up featured wall past a few old bash in carrots to belay ledge at double rings.

2. 50m (24) Climb nice orange ripply face on right side of arete past a band of choss to good stance at 25m. Ignore the nice shiny u-bolts going right, and climb the dirtier arete direct on old carrots.

The excellent and sustained ringbolted right hand finish to Bailys second pitch. Makes a good climb into a mega route! Splits at 25m point. 50m rope is only just long enough. Extened runners to avoid rope-drag.

Another goodly long face route.

Fix 70m rope off large tree 5m south of Raving Bull anchors and rap down huge orange face to belay ledge about 5m down and right of the left arete of the wall.

1. 15m (24) Mossy slab for a few metres then straight up reachy orange face on cool pockets to join into Hurt It etc for two bolts then traverse right across hand ledge to semi-hanging belay at small ledge at double u-bolts.

2. 40m (25) Onward up epic orange face. Sustained to the very last move. 17 bolts - some long runners reduce rope drag.

Excellent red wall. Top pitch makes a good warmup for the other routes.

Fix a 60m+ rope and rap from three rings under southern end of summit blob. Marked with a painted R. Belay at base of grand orange wall above mossy slab on twin rings.

1. 37m (25) Superb rock. Sustained and reachy vertical wall climbing with a right kink at halfway. Exciting finish via technical mossy slab (you brushed it on the way down, right?)

2. 30m (22) Sustained wierdness up ironstone plates and gritty pockets. Belay off three u-bolts on shale ledge.

Line of FH with DUB's starting at base of wall far Right (looking in). Rap down as for Baileys then walk north on foot ledge for 15 meters to large flake at end of ledge. If needing to walk out walk North up the valley along base, ignore first 'possible' ramp and continue until spur meets you then hike up left , poke about with a few very short easy scrambles and walk up side of hill back to top lookout. Walking south toward old shale mine track is dangerous, difficult and not recomended.

1. 42m (23) The highlight. Up wall, step right into corner and fingery gaston crux to steep jugs. Up balancey and airy arette to triple ubolt hanging belay (bring a comfy harness?!). A small etrier or long sling to step into may give leader some kidney relief whilst belaying. Bring 20 quickdraws.

2. 26m (24) Immediately technical and oozey getting established in fused corner/slab then exponentially steeper and difficult right to the last moves. Double U bolt belay.

3. 26m (24) Up face, carefully through some choss to steep over hanging red wall trending left (crux) and work arete. De-pump on some good holds before final mantle. DUB Anchors set back beneath pitch 4. Set yourself up to belay back on edge for visual support as it is the hardest steepest and most exposed pitch.

4. 16m (15) Vertical hiking up dirty corner avoiding wall under lookout for anchor discretion. Step right near top and belay from tree backed up with single U bolt.