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Voies dans South Buttress pour la cotation selectionnée

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Affichant les 9 voies total.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Popularité
Integral face
23 Dangermouse

Sharp arete left of the top pitch of Marmalade with four or five bolts. Rap station at the top.

FA: Mike Peck & Craig Kentwell, 1987

FFA: Unknown banana benders, 1989

Sportive 15m
23 The Naked Chef

A derivative route cooked up by Jamie and Oliver that combines a direct start to A Little Dab'll Do Ya with a continuation up the headwall to the right of Integral (six bolts plus gear).

Start 2m right of Integral. Up past a bolt to join ALDDY at the gear placements right of Integral. Follow ALDDY past another bolt and up the slab above. Follow the line of least resistance and most gear to the right and then back left to the first bolt on the headwall. Up past three more bolts.

First ascent done with supplementary gear in Integral to make it to the headwall - another bolt now removes the need for this.

The headwall can also be climbed independently by starting from the base of Dangermouse and traversing left to the line of bolts.

FA: Oliver Story & Jamie Valdivia, 2011

Trad mixte 45m, 7
23 R Moral Turpitude

A bold undertaking that was one of the first of the bolted routes at Booroomba. The placing of bolts caused some significant controversy at the time. Start as for Ruffles at the thin crack.

  1. 30m - Up the crack to the overlap, then left to a break just before the arete. Up over the bulge, then up the wall past two bolts to another bulge. Move right to belay below the short corner crack.

  2. 15m - Up the corner crack to finish.

FA: John Smart, 1979

Trad mixte 45m, 2, 2
Peter Pan Area
23 Nirvana

"Just another classic" - but no stars! Start three metres left of Love Action. Up the wall to a bolt, then layback up the arete.

FA: Mike Law-Smith & Richard Watts, 1983

Trad mixte 10m, 1
23 Earthbound Misfit

Another good steep wall. Start five metres left of Static Cling, part-way up Jack's Crack. Place a side runner. Climb up past a bolt to a ledge and up to another bolt, crank past this to a second ledge. Finish up a short corner with a third bolt.

FA: Gordon Poultney & Mike Peck, 1988

FFA: Gordon "Goldfinger" Poultney, 1988

Trad mixte 25m, 3
Possum area
23 Cakes and Ale

You could be at Arapiles for this overhung climb, which was quite controversial because of its blatantly chipped holds and four bolts. Start two metres left of Lazarro's Direct. Follow the bolts (and chalk if there's any there). Pull over the roof and up the wall to double bolt belay.

FA: Tony Barten & Mike Peck, 1985

Sportive 20m, 5
23 The Valerie Plame Affair

The bolts just to the left of Cakes and Ale. Shares anchors with Cakes and Ale.

FA: Justin Ryan, 2006

Sportive 20m, 5
23 Beast of Burden

The white water streak between Vomit and Dreamweaver, with excellent bouldery face climbing. Either start up Vomit and move right along the ledge to the first bolt, or boulder the hard, short wall. Follow the bolts, place some gear (including #3 camalot) then straight through the overhang above. Scramble up to DBB as for Vomit. Originally a bold and direct wall with good ankle-breaking potential, Mike added bolts in 1990 making it very popular.

FA: Mike Law-Smith & Guy de Lacey, 1982

Trad mixte 30m, 5
Cocker's Gully
23 Above the Water Line

Hard slabbing. Climb the crack (Plimsoll Line) for five metres then step left onto the wall. Crimp delicately past three bolts and finish up a short crack. Name changed by Mike in 2023.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1988

Trad mixte 25m, 3

Affichant les 9 voies total.

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