Affichant les 26 noeuds total.
Noeud |
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Summit Rim
Banana Blasé is directly below the bolts to lookers right of the glider ramp, and Home James rap is on the (lookers) right side of the big big boulder just past Banana |
23
Cyborg
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
Body Heat Area
To access the following routes, find the boulder from which you abseil into Home James. Skirt around this boulder (to the right, looking out) and push through bushes for 10m to arrive at a ledge (here you will find the route 'Finger Fantasy'). A 20m scramble takes you down to the anchors of Body Heat. |
25
★★★ Body Heat
From the top of Home James, keep skirting around the gorge rim (rightward, looking out) and down a little to a ledge (immediately east from a short east-facing finger-crack - Finger Fantasy). A double bolt rap chain is located toward the east edge of this ledge. This the belay at the top of Body Heat and Sweet Nothings. Abseil in 25m to hanging double bolt belay (bolt plates required). Up past 5 FHs. |
27
★ Sweet Nothings
The steep blunt arete to the R of Body Heat. |
21
Finger Fantasy
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
Home James Area
The routes in the vicinity of 'Home James' are best accessed by abseil. From the hang-glider ramp, skirt down to the right (looking out) around the big block above the Banana Blase gully. Continue past this for another 15m, then move left looking for a chockstone at the junction of the easy angled slab and the vertical wall. Sling this chockstone for the abseil into 'Home James'. |
23
★ Silver Shadow
Start as Home James then go straight up slab instead of traversing right.Confusing move on the Headwall. 3 carrots, plus 2 (?) from the start of Home James. |
20
★★★ Home James
Great climbing up some fantastic dyke features, can be a little hard to find. A few carrot bolts and some small to medium cams and wires. To access, rap down slab from big chock stone that you sling just around a large boulder past the hang glider ramp. You should be able to see the dykes near where the wall turns vertical as you rap down. There is a super comfy belay at the bottom with two carrot bolts. |
The following two routes start off a sizeable ledge 20m below the start of Home James. Either route
The following two routes start off a sizeable ledge 20m below the start of Home James. Either route can be easily combined with Home James or Silver Shadow. |
21
★★ Back in an Hour
Starts a couple of metres left of 'And don't spare the horses' (apparently the numbers given to these two routes in the text in the '06 guidebook should have been reversed). Delicate slabbing up first 3 bolts, then move left to wide crack past 2 more bolt. Up left over crack to finish on slab past another bolt to belay at the base of Home James. |
23
★★ And don't spare the horses
Starts from near the right side of the sizeable flat ledge directly below the base of Home James. Up the slab which sweeps up tending rightward, past 3BRs to a steepening (large-medium cam possible but not essential). Up and over this, past another BR, and up leftward to the belay at the base of Home James. |
20
Horizontal Kung Fu
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
22
★★ Vertical Tai Chi 2nd Pitch
Climbs the crack and arete beside Home James, and shares HJ's last bolt. Rap to DFH belay then follow the FHs with optional gear to share the last bolt with ‘Home James’. Note route length includes the 10m slab-walk back to the belay |
25
★★★ Vertical Tai Chi
Classic hard slab climbing. To get to the belay, a fixed 70m rope will make it from a gear belay to the right of Home James, or you can stop at the belay for P2. Aim down and right to a small bushy ledge. |
Banana Blasé Area |
23
★ Banana Milkshakes Rule
A few metres left of Banana Blase is a line of 4 carrot bolts. could definitely get some additional small pro in. Access as per Banana Blase. |
16
★★ Fat Wall Ordinaire Banana Blasé
Rap down the route (fixed hangers 10m right facing out of the hang-gliding ramp.) Layback your way up the stylish flake, step right to crack and delicately up. |
26
Surfing the Gravity Wave
From the extreme right-hand end of the Fat Wall Ordinaire Banana Blase ledge reach up to clip the first BR, then head out right to reach the arete. Up the left side of this. |
22
★★ Black Road
The prominent R-leaning diagonal crack down from Ring-a-Ding Ding |
18
★ Cabaret
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
24 ★★ Ring a Ding Ding |
21 - 23
Unknown
2m Left of Thin Wall Special Pineapple delight is an un-named line of bolts in a shallow crack. Access as per TWSPD. |
17
★ Thin Wall Special Pineapple Delight
Approximately 20 metres before the hang glider lookout on the cliff edge there is a large car-sized boulder with a triangular gully next to it. Rap in down the gully to a large platform. On the left of the platform (looking out) there is steepish ramp with 3 cracks in it. The right 2 cracks are Thin Wall Special Pineapple Delight. Mostly good protection, run-out at top. |
22
★ Smear Tactics
The arete R of TWSPD. The unprotected start means this is more often top-roped than led. Head right to arete then up dyke and onto left wall. Up past BR to the top. |
14
★ Turkey Chute
Rap off at far right side of echo point lookout. Climb is a ramp going from right to left (looking out) and the brown streak at the top is approximately middle of the climb. Rap in to ledge follow obvious diagonal line. No pro, good holds |
Affichant les 26 noeuds total.