Ascensions dans Omega Block par Dave Scarlett contenant trad-cpr ou ascent-date

Surprisingly good, after I gave it a decent brushing. Somewhat similar crux to Wishful Thinking, but more prolonged, harder, and further from the bolt. (But still very well protected.)

Warm up. Lovely and cruisy. Had never noticed before just how dodgy the bolt is. Looks like an 8mm (or thinner?) thread with a bolt plate fixed to it!

Brutally hard (though very well protected) crux for a 17! Found myself laybacking on a hand jam, trying to get a foot up on the ledge. A BD #3 size cam was very handy immediately after the crux.

Went fine until the crux (little roof), then found myself no footholds, and a crack that narrowed down so much I couldn't even get fingers in. Maybe need to jam below the thin section of the crack and reach right up over it, possibly in combination with a crimp out right.

Really not sure where I was supposed to be going here. Climbed left of the trench, then traversed to the right half way up (possibly onto Lola V?) and went straight up to the jugs over the lip of the crack where it curves.

Bouldery start leads to a pumpy section with plenty of medium cam placements, then a rest ledge and bolt before the crux. It's wishful to think that being tall will make the "reachy" crux any easier.

Nice little route. Graded 13* in the Rockclimbs Around Melbourne guidebook, which seems more accurate than 7. Near the top, moved right to the last bolt on Wee Ripper and finished that route instead of the easy arete.