Cathedral Rock National Park Guide

Start: Below a crack with a 'rock cowpat' at about head height. The climb takes the crack which leads to superb climbing out left.

1. 27m. (crux) Tricky move up over 'cowpat' and up the crack to a small roof. From here swing left to the V-groove. Up this to belay on ledge. On last inspection the 'rock cowpat' was sound, but pull down and not out!

2. 8m. Straight up the large corner/crack. Abseil off the back via a very large bollard.

Start: As for T.M. The chossy crack, then move out right onto the wall. Stephens performed an excellent backward somersault, with pike, when a chicken head snapped off the slab.

1. 22m. (crux) Up choss and good crack to small roof of T.M., then move out right and up juggy wall and fine short slab. Belay on ledge as for T.M.

2. 8m. As for pitch 2 of Tontons Macoutes, The wide crack/corner. Abseil off large bollard at the back of the pinnacle.

Start: The chimney approx. 10m. left of 'We Wont Get Fooled Again'.

1. 30m. Chimney then jam to the top.

Start: A left facing chimney that gets wider higher up.

1. 35m. Easy chimneying leads to harder chimneying at half height. Pro is spaced out on the top half. Take large gear.

Start: The crack 2m. right of the big flake on the overhanging wall.

1. 25m. Up overhanging crack (crux) , move into crack on left, and up corner, step right to a big flake. Up flake to belay on top of it.

2. 15m. Up crack on left and step right and easy ground to top.

Start: Up on a ledge on the right-hand end of the main cliff, past Bangin Beava. A great introduction to hand jamming.

1. 20m. A short chimney section leads to a classic hand crack.

Start: Start in a gully at the right-hand end of the main cliff, just left of 'Cheap Regrets' 5m right of 'Day Dream'.

1. 22m. 4m. Up the gully, then step left around the tree, then up the diagonal crack, with a short delicate slab finish.

Start: Just left of Soft Touch, a rounded lowangled arete, harder than it looks. Take a sling for a nubbin runner. A very serious lead.

1. 20m. Giggle at the grade and motor up to a stance above steep section. Shake shit from your pants and go for the top. Stop shaking and set up a suss belay.

Start: Best do this in summer. A chimney with a chockstone at about half-way. I can’t remember where it starts. Not far from the Western end of the cliff.

1. 40m. Up twin cracks then left to base of chimney. Out and around a squeeze then deeper into chimney. Up the crack deep in the chimney (crux) , move up to and squeeze inside the chockstone, then up to belay where chimney becomes horizontal.

2. 23m. Follow the horizontal chimney through to the other side of the mountain.

Start on the biggest jug, up through the pocket the veer left

Start matched on the bottom of the rail with knees under the cave, mantle and up. Can finish as for Hump or more directly straight up

Start matched on the hump, then up right right to good hold then traverse left and link into 'Underbelly'

Start under the bean in the best finger slot. Traverse through roof and either up to right or directly up. Various harder starts further left, or further back under the cave.

Start at the Underbelly and link under through magic bean out other side.

About 20m behind (up the hill) from the problem Magic Bean is a large square boulder. The downhill arete is a pleasant problem but the landing is poor.

The left side of the arete has a technical start to reach the small flake. Starting on flakes on the left face, and traversing low to reach the arete adds a move or so.

Easy padding up the right side of the blunt arete.

Sit start, left hand crimp right hand side pull flake. Straight up amd slightly left to top out.

Sit start on big broken flake with both hands on flake, straight up and slightly right to finish with a tricky mantle.

Stand start left hand crimp right hand arete, use the arete to gain the top for a Mantle to finish. Fun

Balancy techy slab. Stand start leg t hand crimp right hand on the arete, straight up using the arete to finish.

Techy balancing up the arete. Stand start left hand crimp right hand arete.

Stand start on the big jugg, straight up then slightly left to top out. Great fun on a great bloc.

Stand start, use edges and positive crimps with high feet to gain a blankish top out. Not bad.

Stand start, using a few crimps and some trickery to work your way up the blankness. Fun.

Stand start straight up the slab choose your own adventure. Plenty to pull on.

Stand start straight up the slab pretty straight forward. Fun

Up out of hole on perched boulder

SDS on lefthand detached block, then up layback to jugs

Hard campus moves to mantle

Traverse the obvious sloper rail from Gee's Problem to Aza's Mantle. Looks really hard

face on right side of Knob Boulder

Start just right of obvious Knob, up to knob and top out

left start to Knob Mantle

Actually on the backside of Gee's Bloc, up thin face on flakes and edges tending leftish

Same start as Flaked but up slab to the right.

Left side of Green Sheep Boulder. Up scooped rock

Up to gaston / pinch then left to jug

Up the obvious Flake

SDS on bottom left of face and up to sharp lip edge via sloper.

SDS deep right and follow crimp rail left, slopers to sharp lip edge.

Slap to rail then move right to mantle

SDS left of crack, use it if you want, up and left onto ramp to top.

The crack.

Line of crimps out R onto the face...

Awesome moves up the technical arete, a classic. Low sit start off opposing sidepulls, pull up to the crimpy flake, then up the chiselled arete feature.

Bulging wall on granite crozzles and poor feet.

Start on the big broken flake, it’s solid, pull up to a crimp then up to the flake side pulls, mantle to finish. Sit start.

Shared start with Subtelite but traverse left to jugs then top out.

Off the top of the block leaning against the boulder.

On the back (Southern) side of the boulder is an undercut slab. Start just left of the block leaning against the boulder, tricky pull over the bulge, step left then up slab.

Start n good edge with both hands , get feet on throw up to next good edge. Then easy to top.

Stand start on side pull and positive edges, straight up to top out.

Technical face climbing on incuts and then intricate arete and wall to get to the top of the boulder. Classic. May be easier/harder but who knows how to grade blunt arête slab cruxes?

Can be top roped from anchors of AB. Needs #5 + #6

Starts up the middle of the pinnacle and steps left into Seam. Top out and use anchors on right face. you can also continue to traverse right past anchors if you want to top out the boulders

Up arete on the left side of Pedestal. Tricky and Thin. Same Anchors as for AB

Start on the back side of the Pedestal by either going up the chimney or jumping from other boulder. Climb low angled slab to anchors as for AB. If you want to top out the big boulders you can continue past anchors on rightward traverse at about grade 15.

Located Between the 2 large boulders. Very Short but due to location is a route rather than a boulder problem. Will get your heart pumping.

Straight up the face from the boulder. Balance your way up fused seam and on to the right.

5 bolts to twin rings. Stick clip first two and start in corner. Get a good belayer, you don't want loads of slack here. The bloc behind is out.

Technical climbing to a heart breaking crux finish. In summer, climb in the evening.

The hardest bolted line out at the crag and likely the broader region? Jump on it and have a crack. Even the easy start Isn't.

Sit down start then up arete

First moves of Salubrious Sacs Stand then step left onto slab

Obvious line up the middle of the wall

1m right of Salubrious

Obvious features on the back wall of the bloc

Same start as Back Side Traverse, but go straight up on edges to a jug

Backside of boulder, rail traverse from right to left then mantel

SDS left arete

Start further right round the boulder on small pockets and traverse left to meet Shit-tastic

Right arete on big flake to rail and top out

Big huck off edges to the rail

Left Arete. Awesome. Start on sharp fin then straight up.

Start 2m left of Left Arete, traverse the slopers and top out

Start in Chinmney, keep feet off back wall and climb crack to airy traverse finish

Face and step left, a bit scary

Crack

1m left of Arete, pocket and edge, then up edges to top out

Over Hung Featured Arete

Contrived, stupid, fun! Sit start on the left most boulder, link into 'Bird is the Word' then the low link onto the leaning boulder, then gaston and link onto the main boulder and up the slab.

Start on left side of flake, traverse

start on right side of flake, traverse

Left half pad undercling, right rail, dyno up

SS on jugs at base of Crack, low R traverse trending through seam, pockets & underclings. Same top out as for WETATB

Sit start and up crack

start on nice rail below left arete and mantle onto boulder

Start as for left arete but continue lip traverse

Tiny nails holds at the start, with some better features up high, looks basically impossible but maybe something for the freaks to try

On the big boulder directly below the descent gully (20m left of the Cerberus block) is a giant separated flake. Sit start. The upper section can be climbed inside or out, you decide!

SDS on left side of obvious arete

SDS right side of arete, delicate mantel

Start at a horizontal flake 3m right of Cerberus. Highball wall on small edges trending slightly left. Feels a bit bold at the top.

Blank wall

Cool arete problem up the block from a sitter. Start on the crimpy fin on the right arete and small face crimps.

Inspiring project up the trad crack and upper arete. May need a bolt on the top section.

Offwidth crack

Old school lay backing on stellar stone. Straight up.

Head up layback to jug then step left onto face and across to flake on arete and up

This is what granite is all about! This tenuous slab is found just round to the left of Body Painter. Bridge off the block and lurch onto the slab. The thin line trends up the vague scoop past two bolts, with a finish that will stay with you for some time. Probably E4/5 6b in real money. Medium cams to belay. The direct start from the floor is an open project, it goes but will need a cold day.

To access the top of the route - from the block with the Painter loweroff on it, jump across the gap and abseil 3m down to the finish ledge.

Very thin slab direct off the floor. Boulder up to the good right hand pocket at about 4m, or carry on up the route for the full tick (and give yourself a solid 24).

Open proj. Extended thin bouldering up left side of slab to better holds at half height.

Blunt arête

The scooped groove and featured face to the left of ‘Playing In The Shark’s Mouth’. Tricky moves on poor feet up to the big jug rail and top out.

Opposite arête of Sharkfin boulder, in the corridor behind Sabbatical. SDS on the jug and climb crimps to top out

Arete with features down low and a totally blank topout

The boulder directly to the left of Sharkfin Rodeo

Sit Start climb big V then slab top out

Traverse the rail to the jug. extension into Big V awaits

Straight up cracked Face

Up Tending Left

Overhung arête, awesome. Start with right hand on low crimp and left on blocky feature above.

Middle boulder strange rockover

Start 2m right of Mini, matching a sloper on the lip. Up right to holds in the thin seam, then mantle onto the slab with difficulty. Frustrating yet addictive.

Obvious project, hard moves to the lip.

Obvious flake 2m left of Trigrams

Sitstart at little orange streak, crimps to jug and top out

2m right of Trigrams. Techy start to reach crimps then airy finish up slab.

Positive edges and crimps to start leading to an airy blank top out. Stand start, right hand crimp left hand good edge, work your way up the blunt arete to top out. Totally mad !

On the back side of the Trigrams cluster. Even less fun than the name suggests. Stand start, sitter awaits someone bored.

Pull on as for Rasengan, matched on the sidepull. Go direct up through the vague scoop then on up poor slopers.

Hard first move, then follow rail to top out, has been done as a jump start problem

Start on obvious blocky jug, climb arete

right hand bloc, mantle the big rail

Perfect letterbox start to hard crimping

Awesome looking highball, opposite side of the boulder to Sharingan. Start on high crimps. Potential for a lower start.

Sitter on low rail. Climb short technical wall to slopey top.

Sit start, through obvious flake and mantle. Punchy.

50m left of the Big Groove project. Lovely featured wall on good crimps from a sitter to mantle the juggy flake. Possibly done before?

Round left from Johnny Dory (opposite the back of Trigrams). Sitter on the big jug up to crozzles, then delicate mantle.

Boulder is found just round left from Humpback Whale by a tree. Stand start. Use flake and a high step to use a mantle up to crimps to top out. Great !

Start on crimps for both hands, straight up to lip then slap up again for an easy mantle.

Stand start a on big flake then either stand up or throw out to the left arete then mantle. The throw is way more Fun!

Stand start, use right and left hand side pulls to pull on, then go straight up for decent holds to a tricky mantle. Rad!

Stand start near the left end of the face by a cluster of little crimps and left hand high pinch. Rock onto slab and up.

The vague slopey rib left of ‘Neon Handshake’. Start on opposing sidepulls, feet on low flake, then techy move up slab to slopey finish. Great!

Sit start on the left end of the long flake. Traverse it and slap up right to the sharp jug of ‘Bulls On Parade’, finishing up this.

Sit start on the horizontal flake. Rock onto this and up slab via a cool move and small holds.

Sit start 1.5m left of ‘5 Minutes’ under the steepest bit of the overhang. A few tricky pulls gains a sharp finger-jug. Continue direct.

SDS, left hand in sloper dish right hand on big flake, burly moves to gain the jugs above. Top out

Stand start on the jugg rail straight up to top out. Nice easy one.

Sit start at the hollow undercut slot 2m right of ‘5 Minutes Alone’. Up and over bulge.

Sit start under the overhang at sidepull. Pull up and over the right side of the nose via technical moves. Great!

Sit start the crimpy diagonal flake. Rock onto this, up slab via crimps, then airy finish up the the slabby nose above.

Thin slab starting 1m left of Problem 2. Trends left at the top. A direct finish up the high slab awaits.

Sit start the burly giant flake and struggle over the bulge (kneebar optional).

Stand start. Tricky moves up blunt nose just right of Wildcat, then on up slab.

Stand start. Over bulge and up smeary slab to top of boulder.

The left side of the main face is brilliant. Start at a crimpy flake, up vertical wall via very technical moves on small holds, easing slightly high up. Finish via a vertical slot to lower-off just over the lip. 3 bolts. Might be 23.

At the right edge of the Thylacine Face. Awkward jump start can gain the finger-jug rail at 3m. The real challenges will be doing this from a sit start on the little arete, and/or continuing up the face via small flake. Both are very hard.

An amazing problem using the obvious hueco on the block opposite Thylacine. Pull into the pocket then big dynamic throw up and left to dish then top out.

Walk round behind Thylacine/Sabretooth to find a corridor on the back of the main block. Jump start off a broken sidepull to the high flake. Shorties may need to stack a pad to reach the starting holds. Mantling the flake and finishing up the wall would be worthwhile but would need a bolt.

Sit start on flake, up and over bulge.

Sit start, hands on the jugg flake, up to top out via a few crimps.

Stand start hands on juggs then mantle, top out.

Sit start the big flake. Pleasant but a bit crumbly.

Just left of Bard. Stand start matched on the slopey rail, go direct.